When I visited Fryborg in 2023 for a follow up article on its new Trumbull location and expanded menu, owner Johnathan Gibbons tossed me a tidbit that I teased at the end of that piece about a weekend morning pop up featuring something sweet.
“A lot of the food we serve is inspired by being a kid,” says Fryborg owner Jonathan Gibbons. “In Milford, an older guy in his 80s comes in regularly and he remarked that my food is like when he was a kid. That made me feel really good. The food, the video game table, the bubble hockey, it’s all about nostalgia.”
For many, me included, “nostalgia” is the right work to describe Fryborg.
Just under three years ago, our esteemed founder, Stephanie Webster, introduced CTbites readers to Bill Taibe’s Don Memo. Since the summer of 2020 when Don Memo opened, it has not only been a hit with locals and out-of-towners, but Taibe’s interpretation of authentic Mexican cuisine with ingredients that are seasonal and locally sourced has gotten its share of acclaim as a 2021 CRAzies nominee for Best Restaurant (West Region) and a Restauranteur of the Year win for Taibe.
This year, there are big plans for two of Taibe’s restaurants, Kawa Ni and Don Memo, as they’re set to expand in Denver. While Kawa Ni will be the first to open in the Mile High City, Taibe hinted that Don Memo will hopefully follow in the latter half of 2023.
But the Denver expansion isn’t stopping Taibe’s restaurants from growing in Westport. Kawa Ni—if you haven’t heard—has both a bigger bar and twice the dining room space.
As for Don Memo? It’s open an extra day with another day, Tuesday (because yay for Taco Tuesday!), coming soon thereafter when the weather calls for tacos, tostadas, and palomas on the patio.
What’s going down on Sundays at Don Memo is…BRUNCH. And it’s not only offered on Sundays, but Fridays and Saturdays as well.
Paul Failla uses the word “afterthought” when describing the brunch that was previously offered at all four Fortina locations in Stamford, Armonk, Rye Brook, and Yonkers.
“The old menu was like five items,” he says. “People didn’t come here for brunch. They’d always get pizza. Brunch was always an afterthought here.”
One of Failla’s first orders of business as the restaurant’s sole culinary director was to all but scrap the former “barely a brunch” format and make Fortina a place you’d seek out for daytime drinks, yolky goodness, breakfast sandwiches, sweets, and more.
Failla joked that the only thing that would stay on the brunch menu are the bottomless mimosas, and while that’s true, the only other holdover will be a tweaked version of eggs in purgatory, but with a spicier marinara sauce.
The rest of the menu is a switch-up entirely.
This article appeared in the Trumbull Times on January 5th. Read the complete article here.
Jonathan Gibbons is being cautiously optimistic.
He hopes that the latest outpost of his restaurant Fryborg will open at 10 Broadway Road in Trumbull some time in May. But he’s well aware that might not be possible.
“Right now, with all of the delays and issues with the supply chain, it’s affecting everybody,” Gibbons said. “I know it will take a while.”
Despite the potential hiccups, he’s excited about bringing the restaurant — perhaps best known for its hand-cut fries with a choice of more than 15 dipping sauces and an array of toppings — to Trumbull this year.
The drive-thru window that had been used by the pharmacy will be used to pick up food. However, Gibbons said, it wouldn’t be a traditional drive-thru, where customers would order food from a kiosk, pay and pick it up. Customers would order and pay ahead of time and pick up the food at the window when ready.
The restaurant would also offer sit-down dining.
Fryborg began as a food truck in August of 2012. In 2018, Gibbons opened a restaurant in Milford. When he saw the space in Trumbull was available, he said it appeared to be a great opportunity to expand his brand.
When we introduced our readers to The Village in the summer of 2021, we knew we’d be back relatively soon thereafter. No, it’s not to talk about beer and smash burgers at Cisco Brewers. It has nothing to do with the special pop-up dinners you may have peeped on Instagram.
This brief sequel takes us back to The Wheel where they’ve just begun wheeling out Sunday brunch service. Brunch here is short, only from 10 a.m. – 3 p.m., with a small, breakfasty menu. Some of it is salty, some is sweet, and there’s lots of yolky goodness to be had.
But who hits up brunch without booze? And in the case of The Wheel…tunes. Drink beer, or wine, and they’ll allow you to order a cocktail from their afternoon menu (I had a Sazerac after my White Russian), but the focus here is light and bubbly or bloody. Refreshing mimosas and bellinis are available by the glass but where’s the fun in that? The Wheel has an option where brunchers can choose their sparkling wine, then fresh squeezed fruit juice mixers, and even ginger, crème de menthe, or Aperol. It arrives at your table in a wooden serving tray, DIY style. Mix and drink.
Bloodies—in Mary form (with vodka) or the tequila-based Maria—are also a brunch staple at The Wheel, as are Cisco beers, other local craft selections, and a boozy milkshake-like White Russian, blended in part with Stamford-based Rise Oat Milk Vanilla Coffee.
While you sip, enjoy the tunes. This is a jazz brunch after all. Most often you’ll catch local musicians or bands that are brought in by Greenwich resident Pete Francis of Dispatch fame. On the off chance that Pete is hanging out, expect him to join in on a few sets.
By now you should have figured out what you’re brunching on besides alcohol.
Like I mentioned earlier, The Wheel’s Sunday Funday menu is succinct. If you’ve been before, you’ll notice a trio of the restaurant’s dinnertime staples offered at brunch, namely the locally sourced Lioni burrata with strawberries and basil, tuna tartare, their big, beefy burger, and a lobster roll.
More morning appropriate fare appears like a shareable buttermilk banana bread—seriously, try it. I don’t even get down with banana bread like that. This one isn’t dry, the banana isn’t too…banana-y. It’s made with love, and whipped butter to spread all over it doesn’t hurt either. Other starters are fire bread with hot honey and whipped ricotta, a lox plate with bagel chips and proper accompaniments, and a not so shareable yogurt parfait.
School is officially back in session in the Cannondale neighborhood of Wilton. We’re not talking education but rather The Schoolhouse’s new “teachers,” Angela and Sandy Baldanza and their son, Alex.
Before the family’s move to the historic Cannondale School, they were restaurantless. No, you aren’t crazy to imagine that they had a few restaurants at one point. They owned and operated Baldanza Cafe for 8 ½ years in New Canaan with six of those spent where SE The Back End is now. They even ran Baldanza Bistro in Darien behind Ten Twenty Post.
“When COVID hit, we closed that space (Darien) because it was too small for outdoor seating,” Angela says. “We took a lease at 21 Forest (in New Canaan). A few months in, we received complaints from the condo board there. We cut our losses there and our Darien lease ended. And we only left 17 Elm because of the place in Darien, so we were left with no restaurants at all.”
Cue the 1872 building we’ve all known as The Schoolhouse at Cannondale under Tim LaBant and most recently the home of Hugh Mangum’s popular Rise Doughnut pop-up who subleased from LaBant for a year. LaBant, who had a 14-year run at The Schoolhouse decided not to renew for a few reasons. “I left to focus on Parlor Wilton and the new Parlor Darien,” he says. “My lease was up and in these crazy times, I decided not to renew.”
All of the moving, and the closings, led to a coincidence.
“Ironically, Tim has our old spot in Darien where he opened Parlor and we took over The Schoolhouse on July 1,” Angela says. “Here we are, and we love being here. Sandy and I used to come here for dinner when we had a break from our restaurant. We love Tim.”
At this iteration of Baldanza, diners can anticipate a local, organic, and homemade approach. Brioche and Tuscan bread are sourced from Balthazar Bakery, while the naturally leavened, freshly milled sourdough comes from 123Dough Bakery in Pound Ridge. They also get seasonal produce from Connecticut farms, citing Wilton’s own Ambler Farm as a primary supplier and seafood is by way of New Wave Seafood in Stamford.
The approach to “local and fresh” applies in the kitchen where Baldanza’s longtime chef, Rodrigo Pacheco executes a menu mostly curated by Angela and Sandy. Pasta, as you’ll see in a hearty pappardelle Bolognese, is made in-house, as is the fluffy ricotta gnocchi tossed in roasted tomato vodka sauce, the cheese ravioli, and the tagliatelle caprese with buffala mozzarella and cherry tomato sauce.
The owners of The Spread and El Segundo have had an extremely busy 2020.
Chris Hickey, Andrey Cortes, Christopher Rasile, Shawn Longyear, and Carlos Baez decided to close their Spread sequel in Greenwich at the end of July, an announcement that came on the heels that they relocated their South Norwalk flagship to the former Harlan Publick space in the Ironworks development, adjacent to their global street food concept, El Segundo.
Oh, and that’s not all. Their follow up to a closure and a relocation, was to open a Downtown New Haven double of El Segundo at the tail end of August.
That’s a lot of action.
But with all that comes even more change in the form of El Segundo’s brunch menu.
Brunch was always a thing at El Segundo Norwalk but it’s the New Haven opening that sparked the change according to Hickey.
“The new menu is totally in line with the New Haven opening,” he says. “Brunch was instantly popular in New Haven, so we wanted to bring it to SoNo, too.”
Connecticut claims its share of Celebrity Chefs. These culinary artists routinely win Food Network Competitions, earn James Beard commendations, and enjoy (or endure) their roles as restaurant Rock Stars.
Though less lionized, Chef Frederic Kieffer is every bit their equal. He created the exquisite l’Escale in Greenwich, followed by Artisan in Southport, then again in West Hartford. All are considered gems … and like Kieffer himself, understated.
Earlier this summer, husband and wife team, Cristina Ramirez and Mario Lopez along with brother Jaime opened Bianco Rosso’s newest location, in Trumbull, to eager diners. Noted Chef David White (most recently of Vespa, Westport) was brought on to oversee all culinary matters and is joined by award-winning Pastry Chef Susanne Berne where the two have joined forces to create a delectable menu. Acclaimed Mixologist Jaime Johel oversees the creative specialty cocktail menu. The energetic restaurant opened to rave reviews. We had the opportunity to visit the new restaurant last week and sample some of Chef White’s culinary prowess.
If you’ve walked into either one of the Bow Tie Cinemas in Norwalk lately, you and I likely had the same reaction. I froze for multiple seconds. I’m certain my “wow” face was visible, mouth hitting the ground cartoon-style and all. I marveled at the renovations at the SoNo Ultimate Regent 8, the movie theater I grew up going to since it opened, and now it’s unrecognizable in the best way possible.
Gone are the packed-in, partially broken seats, that have been replaced by padded, comfier electric recliners so you can put your feet up, kick back, and zone-out during a film. As a frequent moviegoer, that’s awesome, but this is a food site. I’m here to dish about the revamped concession stand that you’ll not only see in the South Norwalk Bow Tie, but also at the Ultimate Royal 6 on Westport Avenue, and soon at the Trumbull Marquis 6 with construction slated for early November.
The upgraded concession area includes a full bar, with menus put in place by local restauranteur Greer Fredericks (Mama’s Boy, Peaches), who consulted on the project with assistance from Thomas Siano, who runs the bar program at her current restaurant.
May is National Burger Month and it’s that time of year again for CTbites to unveil its “Best Bar Burgers of Fairfield County.” The last twelve months brought us several suggestions to try and I tried many of these additional locations. The 2014 list included some outstanding bars and haunts that served delicious burgers, so good in fact that only one newcomer was as delicious. (See complete list below)
Not only was this an outstanding burger, but it earned my top spot as the Best Bar Burger in Fairfield County.
Bick’s Burgers & Fries – 2014 Best Bar Burger in Fairfield County
Americans have a loving obsession with coffee. We crave our daily fix, whether it is black, iced, with extra cream and sugar, or a shot of espresso. We crave the aroma, the taste and how coffee brings people together. However, coffee is so much more than just a beverage; it is a huge global business.
Ed Freedman of Shearwater Coffee Roasters is in the thick of this global business, but is marking his own stamp on it. Shearwater Coffee Roasters, headquartered in Trumbull, Connecticut is the first and only USDA certified organic coffee roaster in Fairfield County. Shearwater bases its business on the three core principles of organic, artisan and altruism. They pride themselves on being committed to the integrity of organic roasting. “Organic is not a product line,” says Freedman. “It’s a way of life and what we do. “
The coffee plant is often grown with harmful chemicals, pesticides and herbicides.
The Trumbull Marriott’s Parallel Post restaurant is the result of a prescient collaboration with a James Beard nominated chef and a well-known hotel chain just off the beaten path of Fairfield County's regular dining haunts. Leveraging its proximity to the region’s small and robust network of farms, and the fisheries of Long Island Sound, this three-month-old restaurant draws its inspiration from the bounty of land and sea. The effect is a modern and seasonal New England menu that skews upscale, but without any pretense.
When Ben & Jerry's closed in Westport this Fall, there were murmurs of discontent amongst the younger crowd. Where does one get homemade ice cream with solid mix-ins in this town? Fortunately help was just around the corner...literally. Sunny Daes opened just months later and now Westporters young and old don't have to drive to Fairfield to get their fix.
This full service ice cream shop has 68 flavors of frosty desserts says owner, Sergio Keskin. Plus, it isn't shipped in on trucks; it's made right behind the counter. If this isn't enough to get you in the door, they also serve gelato, frozen yogurt, soft-serve ice cream, and ice cream cakes.
Sure, I could tell you how good the ice cream is, but I thought it made more sense to let the kids tell it like it is...
