When I visited Fryborg in 2023 for a follow up article on its new Trumbull location and expanded menu, owner Johnathan Gibbons tossed me a tidbit that I teased at the end of that piece about a weekend morning pop up featuring something sweet.
Little Riggs sits on the edge of the Stuart, McKinney National Wildlife refuge on the Long Island Sound. Riggs opened 6 months ago from Chef John Kronfeld, who operated the very successful breakfast truck, The Chef Truck, until he opened Little Riggs, transitioning his uniquely delicious breakfast menu into a sit down experience. To call this place a hidden gem isn’t wrong, but this clichéd term is a tad overused these days… It’s like a half buried treasure. Among the locals it isn’t buried at all, and they have taken it by storm.
This little outpost that seats just 30 in the wintertime, is slightly larger than a hole in the wall and certainly significantly more elevated. It’s the type of place you want to go to for a leisurely comforting breakfast on a Sunday morning, but it’s not just a breakfast joint, offering significantly more than just morning fare, and lucky for those of us who do love breakfast food, we can now enjoy it beyond traditional breakfast hours. Kronfeld will be launching dinner service this week, and we will be the first in line.
Just under three years ago, our esteemed founder, Stephanie Webster, introduced CTbites readers to Bill Taibe’s Don Memo. Since the summer of 2020 when Don Memo opened, it has not only been a hit with locals and out-of-towners, but Taibe’s interpretation of authentic Mexican cuisine with ingredients that are seasonal and locally sourced has gotten its share of acclaim as a 2021 CRAzies nominee for Best Restaurant (West Region) and a Restauranteur of the Year win for Taibe.
This year, there are big plans for two of Taibe’s restaurants, Kawa Ni and Don Memo, as they’re set to expand in Denver. While Kawa Ni will be the first to open in the Mile High City, Taibe hinted that Don Memo will hopefully follow in the latter half of 2023.
But the Denver expansion isn’t stopping Taibe’s restaurants from growing in Westport. Kawa Ni—if you haven’t heard—has both a bigger bar and twice the dining room space.
As for Don Memo? It’s open an extra day with another day, Tuesday (because yay for Taco Tuesday!), coming soon thereafter when the weather calls for tacos, tostadas, and palomas on the patio.
What’s going down on Sundays at Don Memo is…BRUNCH. And it’s not only offered on Sundays, but Fridays and Saturdays as well.
Outer Light Brewing Company (OLBC) and Young Buns Doughnuts of Mystic, Connecticut have teamed up to release Young Buns Streusel Doughnut Cream Ale, a one-off release inspired by the gourmet doughnuts produced at the Mystic bakery. The beer, which will be available on draft and in 16oz 4-packs will be released at the brewery on March 10th, with limited distribution across Southeastern Connecticut to follow.
Paul Failla uses the word “afterthought” when describing the brunch that was previously offered at all four Fortina locations in Stamford, Armonk, Rye Brook, and Yonkers.
“The old menu was like five items,” he says. “People didn’t come here for brunch. They’d always get pizza. Brunch was always an afterthought here.”
One of Failla’s first orders of business as the restaurant’s sole culinary director was to all but scrap the former “barely a brunch” format and make Fortina a place you’d seek out for daytime drinks, yolky goodness, breakfast sandwiches, sweets, and more.
Failla joked that the only thing that would stay on the brunch menu are the bottomless mimosas, and while that’s true, the only other holdover will be a tweaked version of eggs in purgatory, but with a spicier marinara sauce.
The rest of the menu is a switch-up entirely.
When we introduced our readers to The Village in the summer of 2021, we knew we’d be back relatively soon thereafter. No, it’s not to talk about beer and smash burgers at Cisco Brewers. It has nothing to do with the special pop-up dinners you may have peeped on Instagram.
This brief sequel takes us back to The Wheel where they’ve just begun wheeling out Sunday brunch service. Brunch here is short, only from 10 a.m. – 3 p.m., with a small, breakfasty menu. Some of it is salty, some is sweet, and there’s lots of yolky goodness to be had.
But who hits up brunch without booze? And in the case of The Wheel…tunes. Drink beer, or wine, and they’ll allow you to order a cocktail from their afternoon menu (I had a Sazerac after my White Russian), but the focus here is light and bubbly or bloody. Refreshing mimosas and bellinis are available by the glass but where’s the fun in that? The Wheel has an option where brunchers can choose their sparkling wine, then fresh squeezed fruit juice mixers, and even ginger, crème de menthe, or Aperol. It arrives at your table in a wooden serving tray, DIY style. Mix and drink.
Bloodies—in Mary form (with vodka) or the tequila-based Maria—are also a brunch staple at The Wheel, as are Cisco beers, other local craft selections, and a boozy milkshake-like White Russian, blended in part with Stamford-based Rise Oat Milk Vanilla Coffee.
While you sip, enjoy the tunes. This is a jazz brunch after all. Most often you’ll catch local musicians or bands that are brought in by Greenwich resident Pete Francis of Dispatch fame. On the off chance that Pete is hanging out, expect him to join in on a few sets.
By now you should have figured out what you’re brunching on besides alcohol.
Like I mentioned earlier, The Wheel’s Sunday Funday menu is succinct. If you’ve been before, you’ll notice a trio of the restaurant’s dinnertime staples offered at brunch, namely the locally sourced Lioni burrata with strawberries and basil, tuna tartare, their big, beefy burger, and a lobster roll.
More morning appropriate fare appears like a shareable buttermilk banana bread—seriously, try it. I don’t even get down with banana bread like that. This one isn’t dry, the banana isn’t too…banana-y. It’s made with love, and whipped butter to spread all over it doesn’t hurt either. Other starters are fire bread with hot honey and whipped ricotta, a lox plate with bagel chips and proper accompaniments, and a not so shareable yogurt parfait.
School is officially back in session in the Cannondale neighborhood of Wilton. We’re not talking education but rather The Schoolhouse’s new “teachers,” Angela and Sandy Baldanza and their son, Alex.
Before the family’s move to the historic Cannondale School, they were restaurantless. No, you aren’t crazy to imagine that they had a few restaurants at one point. They owned and operated Baldanza Cafe for 8 ½ years in New Canaan with six of those spent where SE The Back End is now. They even ran Baldanza Bistro in Darien behind Ten Twenty Post.
“When COVID hit, we closed that space (Darien) because it was too small for outdoor seating,” Angela says. “We took a lease at 21 Forest (in New Canaan). A few months in, we received complaints from the condo board there. We cut our losses there and our Darien lease ended. And we only left 17 Elm because of the place in Darien, so we were left with no restaurants at all.”
Cue the 1872 building we’ve all known as The Schoolhouse at Cannondale under Tim LaBant and most recently the home of Hugh Mangum’s popular Rise Doughnut pop-up who subleased from LaBant for a year. LaBant, who had a 14-year run at The Schoolhouse decided not to renew for a few reasons. “I left to focus on Parlor Wilton and the new Parlor Darien,” he says. “My lease was up and in these crazy times, I decided not to renew.”
All of the moving, and the closings, led to a coincidence.
“Ironically, Tim has our old spot in Darien where he opened Parlor and we took over The Schoolhouse on July 1,” Angela says. “Here we are, and we love being here. Sandy and I used to come here for dinner when we had a break from our restaurant. We love Tim.”
At this iteration of Baldanza, diners can anticipate a local, organic, and homemade approach. Brioche and Tuscan bread are sourced from Balthazar Bakery, while the naturally leavened, freshly milled sourdough comes from 123Dough Bakery in Pound Ridge. They also get seasonal produce from Connecticut farms, citing Wilton’s own Ambler Farm as a primary supplier and seafood is by way of New Wave Seafood in Stamford.
The approach to “local and fresh” applies in the kitchen where Baldanza’s longtime chef, Rodrigo Pacheco executes a menu mostly curated by Angela and Sandy. Pasta, as you’ll see in a hearty pappardelle Bolognese, is made in-house, as is the fluffy ricotta gnocchi tossed in roasted tomato vodka sauce, the cheese ravioli, and the tagliatelle caprese with buffala mozzarella and cherry tomato sauce.
Danbury Connecticut has been on a donut driven sugar rush ever since Grounds Donut House has arrived. With completely unique flavors like Arnold Palmer Iced Tea, Orange Milano & Chips Ahoy, there is no doubt that you will leave the donut haven with smile on your face and a yearning for more. We are also excited about their new…wait for it… Ice Cream Injected Donuts available for in store purchase only.
Located off of the Lake Avenue Exit, Grounds Donut House serves donut lovers creative donuts, premium coffee, over-the-top coffee drinks, and for the 21+ crowd, alcoholic beverages featuring local brewers with donut-y friendly flavor profiles. Grounds keeps their menu pretty consistent, as they have their everyday classics, but they also rotate new donuts in to allow their customers to try new flavors each time they come into the donut house.
I often fantasize about waking up to a 6 pack of donuts and a warm bacon egg and cheese sandwich nestled on a freshly made biscuit. Seriously…all the time. I’ve got issues. Well, now there is a ghost kitchen in Westport, CT where such dreams can become a reality…and they did last weekend. Introducing Grammie’s. For those not familiar with the concept of a ghost kitchen, it just means there is no actual restaurant—not in the traditional sense. You can't come and cozy up to a table, but you can order Grammie's donuts, cronuts, flakey biscuits, croissants and breakfast sandwiches (made on ANY of the above freshly baked carbs) for curbside pickup and delivery through their website. Yup. Lay in bed and hit send…Voila!
If the buzz around KFC’s 2020 rollout of their fried chicken and donut sandwich says anything about our appetite for this decadently delicious combo, I’d say with great certainty that the new Citizen Chicken & Donuts, opening today in West Hartford, has some serious legs. From the folks who brought you Hartford Baking Company, Citizen Chicken & Donuts has made a smart addition to the team, a chef who knows things about Southern cooking, and definitely knows his fried chicken. Texas born, Chef Van Hurd, of Sayulita’s, Taino Smokehouse, and Riverhouse Catering, will be at the helm alongside Hartford Baking Company founder, Scott Kluger, who will handle the carb-ier side of Citizen’s menu, including the donuts, brioche sandwich breads, cronuts and other goodies. Kluger says “Fried chicken is not our background or culture so it’s nice to have somebody from that world to bring real authenticity to the menu.” It’s really the perfect pairing, and you can find this comfort food mecca at Hartford Baking Company’s original location on New Park Avenue in West Hartford.
The owners of The Spread and El Segundo have had an extremely busy 2020.
Chris Hickey, Andrey Cortes, Christopher Rasile, Shawn Longyear, and Carlos Baez decided to close their Spread sequel in Greenwich at the end of July, an announcement that came on the heels that they relocated their South Norwalk flagship to the former Harlan Publick space in the Ironworks development, adjacent to their global street food concept, El Segundo.
Oh, and that’s not all. Their follow up to a closure and a relocation, was to open a Downtown New Haven double of El Segundo at the tail end of August.
That’s a lot of action.
But with all that comes even more change in the form of El Segundo’s brunch menu.
Brunch was always a thing at El Segundo Norwalk but it’s the New Haven opening that sparked the change according to Hickey.
“The new menu is totally in line with the New Haven opening,” he says. “Brunch was instantly popular in New Haven, so we wanted to bring it to SoNo, too.”
At quarter to midnight on a Saturday in Wilton, the town is pitch black except for the glimmer of light coming from Tim LaBant’s Parlor. Ovens are off, they’re not making pizza, and the doors are locked. It’s where you’ll find Hugh Mangum, the owner of Mighty Quinn’s Barbecue, former Chopped champion, a Jean-Georges alum, frequent judge on Beat Bobby Flay and Fire Masters, and, well, you get the idea. Mangum is beginning a sleepless overnight shift where he’s doing the opposite of what he’s known for, if making donuts and fritters for a Sunday morning pop-up is the opposite of smoking meat.
Mangum’s late-night workshop is a necessary one. He’s got lots of donut dough to make, bowls of homemade curds, creams, and glazes need to be whipped up, and fritters require a folding of buttery, cinnamony, sugary Granny Smiths.
Later, Mangum will be joined by his wife, Laura, and his sons Lucas and Henry. While Hugh fries and fills hundreds of donuts in the back, Laura is up front submerging fritters in glaze and coating donuts with fruit-infused sugars. Lucas and Henry are also hands on, expediting and fulfilling customers’ orders for half dozens and dozens.
The line at this point isn’t only a few early birds. When 8 a.m. sales begin, there’s a line wrapped around that side of the shopping center that goes all the way to the back with eager donut fans awaiting freshly made donuts and piping hot fritters, just dunked in brown butter vanilla bean glaze.
Connecticut claims its share of Celebrity Chefs. These culinary artists routinely win Food Network Competitions, earn James Beard commendations, and enjoy (or endure) their roles as restaurant Rock Stars.
Though less lionized, Chef Frederic Kieffer is every bit their equal. He created the exquisite l’Escale in Greenwich, followed by Artisan in Southport, then again in West Hartford. All are considered gems … and like Kieffer himself, understated.
