El Segundo Opens in New Haven with Global Street Food

Kristin L. Wolfe
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What a full circle moment. I first met our editor Stephanie Webster, affectionately known as Boss Lady, almost two years ago at El Segundo in SONO before I started eating myself silly for ctbites. So, I’d say it’s fitting that I get to bring you the news that the segundo El Segundo is opening in New Haven THIS TUESDAY, August 25th. It makes PERFECT sense that a place that consistently delivers super friggin delish-us Global Street Food, land in a town like New Haven, which is a gorgeous microcosm of what our bruised little world has to offer.

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SONO enthusiasts should peel themselves off their barstools long enough to try some of the new dishes the NH locale will offer. Especially since there will be a serious so-called professional lunch crowd there, given the numerous medical, financial, IT, and academic corps nearby. The powers that be (what a seriously talented collective they are) knew adding some salads and sammy-like riffs to the menu would please the midday bunch, but WOW even if you are not there stealing an hour from work, those riffs rock. There’s  a COBB, NICOISE, and VERDE with your name on it.

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And don’t worry, just because they’re offering a salad to a “professional” doesn’t mean they’ve cleaned up their act. Oh no, you will still be smacked in the face, happily, with loud music, cement, and bright graffiti, as we’ve loved at SONO.

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The GOODS

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Don’t you find that some of the messiest foods are the most delicious? I sure do and definitely experienced that here; I left with easily three splatters on my person. So, I tried ten things before I nearly face-planted into my Pineapple Kush (my divine drink with Drambuie, house juice, lime, and mint). The first was a wide-eyed punch by the Jamaican Jerk Beef Patty. The patty itself is nice and subtle, with a perfect little pie-like crunch, then bam, that scotch bonnet relish will wake you up.

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Order the Venezuelan Arepa, loaded with queso fresco and salsa verde, and omg that braised pork against the white corn arepa was a magical duo. The Argentinian Seared Steak Churrasco was cooked perfectly with a bright dab’ll do ya chimichurri. Now I’m not much of a hot dog gal, but whoa, the Mexican Perros Calientes wrapped in bacon and a jalapeno tomato chutney, pretty much converted me. Sweet, salty, spicy. A kinda perfect bite. And what is the verse from foodie scripture? Bacon Makes Everything Better. 

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I’m often skeptical of Cubanos. Why? I just feel a lot of places don’t get the ratio of innards right. WRONG. El Segundo’s Cubano was spot on; from the bread and ham to the pork, swiss, pickle and MUSTARD, you taste just enough of each one.

Speaking of doubt; let’s talk empanadas. Now, I know I know, there are versions all over Central and South America but I’m particularly fond of the Colombian sort since my extended family hails from there, and they OWNED a Colombian restaurant in Queens, so I get to be a bit partial, and uh...snobby. But there you have it, El Segundo’s Colombian Empanadas, had that perfect yellow, corn mealy crunch, with that hot steamy, meaty center I love. If you check the cameras from the restaurant the other night, you might catch me amidst a Cumbia

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So, can you go wrong with anything, especially if drinking, labelled Fried Noodles? No. Slithery mound of sweet, spicy carby Chinese noodles. SOLD.  But don’t fret, you can lighten the load with the Vietnamese Summer Roll in rice paper, daikon, and carrot. As Larry (just one of the freakin’ cool owners)  and I discussed, we could have just grabbed straws and lingered whilst drinking the soy mayo dipping sauce. Isn’t slurping a compliment?

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Now, drum roll please. I died and went to foodie heaven  from the Korean Bulgogi. I mean...come on. Ribeye in an Asian pear marinade with green onion over rice. I just…..I dunno. I’m just telling you it continues to linger on my palate, two days later. (in a good way. I brushed my teeth, I promise).

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Which brings me to Chef Carlos Baez. Is he married? Well, either way, he definitely made love to my palate. Connecticut diners know Baez; and with his tremendous track from Mexico City and experience with Latin and Asian cuisines, I’m sure they will never release him from their grasp. He just has a way around sauces, broths, dips, and marinades that forces you to take notice. The very components that are usually in the background, almost forgotten, or like an afterthought, he truly makes stars in your bowl or plate. 

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You know, the image of my beloved Bourdain that sticks in my mind the most? It’s  when he’s out and about, late at night, in the streets of who knows where in the world, and he’s just folded his lanky frame onto a small crate. He’s surrounded by locals, noise, and a plate of street food. El Segundo has that vibe Bourdain would encourage; it’s messy, it’s loud, and it’s the real deal from the streets.

El Segundo
New Haven
367 Orange Street
[socal handle coming soon]