Earlier this summer, husband and wife team, Cristina Ramirez and Mario Lopez along with brother Jaime opened Bianco Rosso’s newest location, in Trumbull, to eager diners.
This location, like its sister location in Wilton, offers a stylish, minimal and chic setting dressed with crystal chandeliers donning gauzy red shades. Trumbull boasts a generously sized bar, extensive wine list and many creative craft cocktails.
Noted Chef David White (most recently of Vespa, Westport) was brought on to oversee all culinary matters and is joined by award-winning Pastry Chef Susanne Berne where the two have joined forces to create a delectable menu. Acclaimed Mixologist Jaime Johel oversees the creative specialty cocktail menu. The energetic restaurant opened to rave reviews. We had the opportunity to visit the new restaurant last week and sample some of Chef White’s culinary prowess.
We began with a beautifully presented plated of French Toast with fresh berries piled as high as I have ever seen. Picture-worthy for sure, but perhaps even more beautiful on the taste buds. Thick slices of light-as-air Brioche-dipped toast triangles accompanied by strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and a blueberry compote with a hint of basil guarantees to be a crowd-pleaser. This will be on the new brunch menu in the next couple of weeks.
We also sampled one of the weekend specials. Scallops with cauliflower florets, celery root puree drizzled with basil oil. Chef’s scallops did not disappoint. Browned to a crisp, the top of each scallop had a crust-like texture that, once bitten into, met a perfectly tender, delicate meat. The accompanying cauliflower and purée offered just enough flavor so as to complement and not overwhelm. The serving was just enough to satisfy the appetite but not overstuff – leaving plenty of room for dessert for those who choose to so!
A bone-in pork chop with a mustard sauce au jus, accompanied by extra crisp fingerling potatoes, peppers and onion and an Italian Long Hot was met with our approval. Tender, moist and incredibly flavorful, the chop had been seasoned only with salt and pepper. The sweet peppers along with the Italian Long Hot balanced out flavors… sweet and mild with a touch of heat.
The watermelon and tomato salad serve as a perfect refresher to the hot days still to come. Using the best of what the season has to offer, pink and yellow watermelon along with yellow tomatoes, creamy burrata drizzled with olive oil and a touch of salt and pepper for those who love the sweet-savory combination.
Never in a million years would I have ever ordered what came next as, truth be told, eggplant parmesan isn’t really my thing. I’ll be willing to make an exception here. Thin layers off eggplant piled on top of one another in a way that seems more reminiscent of lasagna. But this, this was different. Not to say that it was neither rich nor decadent, but this version had an airiness that didn’t leave me feeling weighted down. It was, in short, delicious and perfect comfort food. I’ll remember this on a cold, rainy day.
My favorite form of comfort food that Chef White seems to do better than anyone else in Fairfield County is his Caccio e Pepe. I first sampled this simple dish of his back in his days at Vespa and was thrilled to learn that he was offering it at Bianco Rosso. I’d had it a month or so earlier when I brought my children in for lunch one rainy weekend. It was exactly as I had remembered it, creamy and nutty from all the cheese with the perfect bite from the coarsely toasted pepper. It is my idea of Heaven on a plate.
The dessert selection here is minimal, but if you have the room, not to be missed. Pastry Chef Susanne Berne has created a few treats that are truly unrivaled. Her Butterscotch Bourbon Budino with Salted Caramel and chocolate Crunch – a cross between a pudding, a custard and a mousse – is a light, airy, yet decadent treat will have you scraping out the bottom of the dish. I dare you to have just one spoonful!
As with the main menu there are often dessert specials. We were fortunate to have sampled a lemon cake with mixed berry sorbet. The cake is a traditional Italian olive oil cake, light airy, incredibly tender, with lemon buttercream frosting. I hope it makes many more appearances on the dessert menu.
My son has a preference for the Warm Almond Blueberry Tart with Blueberries Compote topped with Fior di Latte Gelato. Served warm and a la mode this almond cake offers a hint of sweetness to round off your meal.
Chocolate lovers will delight in her Torta di Chocolate – a flourless chocolate cake with Valhrona mousse, topped with cream and raspberries. Yes, friends, this IS gluten-free!
And for those who like to pick, the Zeppole is always a good idea. Ricotta Doughnuts with Nutella and raspberry sauces served family style pair well with coffee and an after dinner drink.
Chef White and Pastry Chef Berne will soon be making some changes to the menu of the Wilton location. We can’t wait to check those out and we’ll keep you up to date!
Both Chef White and Pastry Chef Berne will be making an appearance at the Greenwich Wine and Food Festival later this month. Also look out for Chef Berne on Channel 12 as she offers wonderful dessert tips for the home cook!
Bianco Rosso 942 White Plains Rd, Trumbull, CT 06611 (203) 880-5973