GG’s Wood Fired Pizza in Milford: Blistered Crusts and Bold Sausage

Jeff "jfood" Schlesinger

I continue to work my way through the CT Pizza Trail’s top 100, checking off the spots I’ve missed, and finally visited GG’s Wood Fired Pizza in Milford. I must have driven past this bright red roadside building on the Boston Post Road a hundred times. It’s impossible to miss with its bold sign emblazoned with two flaming “G”s and an apostrophe shaped like a pizza slice. Yet somehow, it had never occurred to me to stop. I had no idea they were serving ultra-charred, wood-fired pizza out of a blazing hot oven.

 

On a quiet midweek afternoon, we headed to GG’s, an easy venture since it sits right at the bottom of the Milford Connector. There is parking wrapped around the building and an extra lot tucked behind the small strip mall to the left, likely more useful once the neighboring shops close for the day.

 

GG’s serves thin-crust pizza baked in a Mugnaini wood-fired oven that can reach a scorching 1,000 degrees. Their dough starts with 00 flour and a sponge-like mother, then ferments for forty-eight hours to develop depth and a delicate texture. The sauce is made from certified DOP San Marzano tomatoes, giving it a natural, beautiful sweetness. After assembling each pie with cheese and any requested toppings, the pizzas are quickly baked in the blazing wood-fired oven where the intense heat creates the signature charring and blistering on the crust.

 

Upon entering, you have two options, go left into the bar, with a handful of stools and five high-top tables, or head right, into the rear dining room. The dining area has six booths plus additional tables that can seat another thirty guests.

 

GG’s offers plenty of traditional Italian dishes, plus pizzas, offered in both a small and a large size, and we stayed focused, a large cheese pizza with sausage on half. Being midweek, it arrived quickly and was placed on a raised metal stand. First impression was that the “large” leaned more toward a medium by CT standards, and it was molten hot.

The next things I noticed were the generous chunks of sausage, my favorite style, and that one side of the crust was more charred (maybe over-charred) than the other, suggesting it skipped the usual mid-bake spin. I peeked underneath and was impressed, numerous spots of char with the rest a beautiful golden brown. It had spent the right amount of time in the oven. It was still blazing hot, so we waited a little longer to avoid scorching the roofs of our mouths on bubbling cheese.

 

It was time to dive in. I grabbed and tasted one of the large chunks of sausage, it was outstanding, one of the best around. It would unquestionably be the star of that half. I decided to start with a cheese slice. As I pulled it from the pie, long strands of cheese stretched, always a good sign. It looked like the crust wasn’t sturdy enough to fully support the toppings, so I eased the slice onto the plate. The first bite was excellent. The standout was the sauce, naturally sweet from the San Marzano tomatoes, with the cheese adding just enough tang to complement it. The crust contributed a subtle flavor and light texture without being overly crunchy. It was a very well-executed slice.

 

Now onto the sausage side. The sausage dominated the flavor and created a completely different experience. The sausage was so bold and the chunks so large, it almost distracted from the delicious DOP sauce. In thinking about the combination, maybe if the chunks of sausage were smaller, it would have given a better balance to also enjoy the crust, sauce and cheese.

 

Overall, GG’s proved worthy of being included as a member of the CT Pizza Trail. The combination of long-fermented dough, bright San Marzano sauce, and high-heat blistering produced a pie that was very good. The cheese side was excellent, and while the sausage portion could have benefited from slightly smaller pieces for better balance, the flavor itself was fantastic, and both halves of the pizza delivered distinct, memorable flavors.

 

591 Boston Post Rd, Milford, CT 06460

(203) 876-8000

ggwoodfiredpizza.com