Joylark Plant Kitchen & Bar Opens in Fairfield

Jessica Ryan

Located at 260 Post Road Joylark Plant Kitchen & Bar is a stunning, modern, elegant casual eatery. Designed by locally-based Thiel Architecture + Design, the 2,500-square-foot spaces features a dining room that very comfortably seats 50, as well as a bar and casual café. During the warmer months the outdoor patio accommodates 30 more guests. The colorful multi-layered interior, dressed in sages, purples, plums and eggplant with bold whimsical wall papers, reflects the layer of color and flavor in each dish. The vision behind Joylark is Chef Jenna McPartland, a trained plant-based chef.  

Joylark is a health-forward restaurant committed to delivering the flavor and textures that people crave. Familiarity is the secret to really good plant-based cuisine and when done well, people won’t miss what’s missing – in this case it’s the animal protein. It takes skill and creativity, both of which Jenna masters.

McParltand wasn’t always a vegan. She grew up in the Midwest where meat and casseroles were a staple at the family dinner table. It wasn’t until she moved to New York City as a young adult to pursue a career on Broadway that she was introduced to the diverse food scene in New York City and exposed to a whole new world of flavors, dishes and cultures. While in the city she would find love, and tragedy – Losing her young husband one fateful September day in 2001. 

McPartland would eventually leave the city, relocate to Connecticut, settle down in Westport, remarry and raise a family. She would also open her first restaurant, The Stand Vegan Café, which closed a few years ago. She knew in her heart that her years of owning a restaurant were not over. Fueled by a love of good food and good people, Joylark opened less than a month ago. As stated on the website “Our goal is simple: to bring joy to your dining experience through exceptional food, delightful drinks, and genuine hospitality.” This newest venture is a reflection of and tribute to 9/11. 

Stephanie and I were invited to Joy Lark kitchen a few of weeks ago. As we perused the menu we were treated to a mushroom consommé shooter, a warm, salty and earthy hug followed by the Hummus & Focaccia. The velvety hummus with sun-dried tomatoes, Kalamata olives, herbs, pine nuts is served with equally flavorsome grilled house made focaccia toasts, a lovely complement to the Roasted Beets. This fairly simple and beautiful dish with roasted red and golden beets, roasted apples, sherry vinaigrette, and pistachios, embraces the flavors as well as the colors of the season. Next an avocado toast that really puts the rest to shame. A generous serving of mashed avocado and pea shoots sits on top a mile-high slice of house made focaccia, topped with a confit of sweet, tender roasted garlic and cherry tomatoes which burst of sweet flavor.

The truffle bucatini explodes with mushrooms and truffles, and the house made ricotta is so on point with the texture that you completely forget that this dish is 100% plant based. 

Let’s talk about the Patty Melt. Created for those “Vegan Skeptical” this Impossible burger with smoked gouda, caramelized onions, tarragon mayo, on grilled rye bread made in house is impossibly delicious. The burger was tender and juicy and I loved the flavor pairings, unique yet familiar. If I had never had an Impossible burger before, I would have been ruined for life. (It’s like having a glass Dom Perignon or Billecart-Salmon as your first Champagne, few will  measure up.) Let’s not dismiss the fries – which to me are every bit as important — these are some of the crispiest, most flavorful around.

Our afternoon would end on a sweet note – a couple actually... Right around the time we started digging into the Lemon Cream Pancakes a familiar looking woman sat down at a nearby table. After a couple of glances we recognized her to be Noel Furie, owner of Bloodroot which sadly, after 50 years, will close its doors for good in a couple of days. She heard us oohing and aahing rather dramatically over the incredibly light pancakes made from cornmeal, topped with lemon fluff, lemon curd, blackberry syrup, fresh berries and toasted almonds, and turned around to see what the fuss was all about. We couldn’t stop raving, and couldn’t stop eating in spite of the fact that we were both so incredibly full. We invited her to join us and try a bite. “They’re that good!” we insisted. And so she did, and she seemed just as pleased as we were. While she waited for her food, we were wrapping up our own meal. 

As I walked out of the restaurant, belly full and deliriously happy to have this new restaurant in my community, I couldn’t help but think that our ending was rather bittersweet. As we celebrate the birth of one vegetarian restaurant, another closes its doors.  In metaphor speak, it’s the circle of life, I suppose. 

We have no doubt that people will welcome Joylark with open arms and will return for years to come.

Joylark Kitchen was created as a 3-meal-a-day destination with items start the day off on the right foot with breakfast focused dishes such as Smothered Breakfast Burrito, Apple Cinnamon Porridge and Hearty “Joywiches.” Lunch and dinner highlights run the gamut from Za’atar Roastee d Nuts & Olives, Fried cauliflower to Oysters and Grits, Porcini and Whey Bucatini , Sticky Toffee Sundae, Horchata Arancini, and Pumpkin Panna Cotta offer something for your sweet tooth. Sunday Brunch fare is a delicious combination of all-day dishes and weekend. A vibrant beverage program features some creative cocktails and mocktails utilizing freshly made juices, and Hard Smoothies, a spirited riff on a juice bar favorite. 

The restaurant is also excited to offer its Happy Body-Mind Juice Cleanse, a carefully curated program designed to detoxify, nourish, and rejuvenate your body from the inside out. Juices (16 oz) are 100% organic, all made in-house, and prepared fresh each morning. 1,3, and 5-day juice cleanses are available. For more information please visit their website, Joylark Kitchen