Chef Peter X. Kelly Takes Over The Waveny Tavern in New Canaan

"It’s about great food, a vibrant atmosphere, and a level of hospitality that makes you want to return before you’ve even left.” - Chef Peter Kelly

The Waveny Tavern by PXK is the newest restaurant to take over the space in the Pine Street mini-mall in New Canaan. The location previously housed one of my longtime favorites, South End, and when it first reopened as The Waveny Tavern, my early visits left me feeling it hadn’t quite hit its stride.

That changed when Chef Peter X. Kelly arrived earlier this year. Widely regarded as one of Westchester County’s top restaurateurs, Kelly opened his first restaurant, Xaviers, when he was just 23 years old. Since his young entrance into the culinary world, he has opened additional restaurants, including a second Xavier's, Freelance Café, Restaurant X, Bully Boy Bar and X20. His work has earned him numerous accolades, including Westchester Magazine’s Best Chef in 2003 and the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northeast in 2010. His move into Fairfield County is a welcome addition to the local dining scene.

On a blustery and cold afternoon, I stepped into the holiday-decorated restaurant and grabbed a seat at one of the high-top tables in the bar area where I could simultaneously enjoy my meal and watch one of the large screen TVs. The crowd that afternoon consisted mostly of groups of young women sharing wine, and a few men enjoying tall beers. The atmosphere buzzed with a steady, lively hum interrupted by bursts of laughter. It felt like locals had started flocking back to the space.

Given my earlier visits prior to Kelly’s arrival, I chose a simple comfort-food lunch, a Classic Onion Soup Gratinée and a Tavern Burger cooked medium-rare.

According to Chef Kelly, "My philosophy has always been that the best ingredients speak for themselves. We’ve curated a menu that leans into a contemporary American style with a distinct New England accent—sophisticated yet approachable. We believe that simple dishes, when sourced from the best local farms and presented smartly, produce the most splendid fare.”

The onion soup, finished with a touch of sherry and covered in melted Gruyere, arrived in the classic crock. The cheese was beautifully melted, spilling slightly over the edges, a promising start. A quick pull on the cheese revealed a long, stretchy strand, another good sign. The cheese was mild, smooth, and lightly nutty, while the beef stock delivered deep, bold flavor, though a touch saltier than I prefer. The onions were soft, sweet, and well-cooked. Together, the components formed a balanced, earthy, creamy, enjoyable soup. It was a good start.

When the burger arrived, it looked impressive. The 10-ounce, half-inch-thick patty came topped with melted NY cheddar, caramelized onions, Louis dressing, and tucked into a brioche bun, accompanied by a few slices of house-made pickles. I cut it in half, decided to see if the kitchen hit the requested doneness, and it was between rare and medium-rare, not perfect, but close. The meat had a mild but very good flavor (I wished for slightly more grass-fed depth), but it was still satisfying. In a full bite, the complementing components worked nicely together, the cheese was mild, and the Louis dressing added a quick, then lingering, touch of spiciness, plus a note of smokiness rounded it out. Overall, it was a very good burger. The fries, served casually in a side bowl, varied slightly in seasoning, some salted, others needed a touch more.

Overall, returning to The Waveny Tavern under Chef Kelly’s direction felt like a meaningful step forward. The dishes showed greater balance, care, and confidence than my previous visits, and the lively atmosphere suggested that locals are beginning to embrace the restaurant again. While there is still room for refinement, particularly in seasoning, the foundation is far more compelling. With Kelly’s track record and his first venture into Fairfield County, The Waveny Tavern has the strong potential to re-establish itself as a must-visit neighborhood restaurant.

36 Pine St.

New Canaan, CT 06840

203.920.1414

thewavenytavernbypxk.com