Beyond Wooster Street: One6Three Delivers Big Flavor in East Rock

Jeff "jfood" Schlesinger

My Connecticut pizza journey continued in New Haven’s East Rock neighborhood with a visit to One6Three – The Pizza Joint, which is nearing its 10th anniversary.

Located on the corner of Foster and Willow, One6Three has been on my radar for a while, thanks to a lot of positive feedback from my pizza buddies. Driving through East Rock felt like stepping back into my own childhood, lots of two-family homes on tree-lined streets and you could feel the sense of community. It was this type of neighborhood that molded my love of Italian food and great New Jersey pizza.

One6Three occupies a small storefront. Outside, six tables with twelve chairs line the sidewalk. Inside, five beautiful handmade red oak-topped tables with ten chairs fill the dining space, joined by five barstools facing the wood-burning brick oven. I can easily imagine the Saturday-night energy, locals shooting the breeze over their pies, others waiting for takeout, the oven blazing nonstop. The open kitchen dominates much of the interior. While the menu includes non-pizza selections like wings, salads, sandwiches, and sides, the heart of One6Three is unmistakably its pizza, with plenty of preset combinations.

On a first visit, I always order the basics to evaluate the fundamentals: crust, sauce, cheese, and technique, plus my go-to toppings of pepperoni and sausage. I ordered a small (13") half-sausage, half-pepperoni.

When the pie arrived, I was surprised. The menu proudly declares, “A LOCAL, FAMILY-OWNED JOINT THAT SERVES UP CLASSIC NEW HAVEN STYLE PIZZA…” but what sat before me resembled more of a NJ bar pie than the New Haven style you find a mile away on Wooster Street. The sauce and cheese stretched to all the edges, there was very little, if any, char, more a la Colony or Riko. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good bar pie (I am from NJ), and this one looked great, but I was expecting a pie that was more Wooster-esque.

Respecting the roof of my mouth, I let it cool while inhaling the aroma. I first pulled a piece of crust away and I will return to my feelings a little later. Then I tried the quarter-sized pepperoni, which was delicious, with crisped edges, the right punch of spice and terrific flavor. The crumbled sausage followed suit, it was delicious as well, and delivered a good level of spiciness without overwhelming, about the same level of spiciness as the pepperoni. Neither was overpowering. Things were trending upward.

The cooling process was complete, and I lifted a slice to check the underside, a nice golden tan, with no charring at all, more aligned with a bar presentation. The lift test proved that this was not a stiff cracker crust with just a little flop at the tip, so far this was a really well-constructed pie.

Then came the real test.

One6Three sits just beyond the bullseye of New Haven’s pizza mecca, in a neighborhood that reminded me of simpler times, when two slices and a soda cost under a buck. Inside, I immediately felt that community vibe, a father and son sharing a pie, a dude in motorcycle gear with a long white beard grabbing a pie. It’s a neighborhood spot in every sense, and I loved that. The warmth of the space, the sense of community, and the superb execution of a true bar-style pie make it a destination worth seeking out. If you’re looking to avoid the long Wooster Street lines without sacrificing quality, One6Three is absolutely worth the visit.

163 Foster St.

New Haven, CT 06511

 (203) 777-5141

one6threect.com