Fairfield Gets a New Buzzy Italian Hot Spot with Il Pellicano

Christopher Hodson

If you work hard enough and put in the time to learn your craft, then success is sure to follow. Just ask Saul Medina of the newly opened Il Pellicano in Fairfield. Medina’s journey to this point in his culinary career proves that there are many different paths one can take, and if followed, will lead to the same desired destination of becoming a head chef. Born in Puebla, Mexico, he migrated to the U.S., and like so many before him, landed in New York City. He brought with him a deep love of food and cooking, both taught to him at a young age by his grandmother and aunts. Without any formal training, Medina started at the bottom as a dishwasher but quickly worked his way up the kitchen ranks. His strong work ethic, desire to learn, and ability to travel gave him crucial experience and the necessary exposure to many different styles of food very quickly.

Starting as a cook at The Mark by legendary chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, he made some connections and was able to travel to Chicago where he worked at the modern Italian steakhouse, Gibson’s Italia. From there he went south to Florida starting in Tampa at Cena, a chic Italian eatery, and ending in Miami at the famed iconic steakhouse The Forge.

Upon returning to Connecticut to be with family, and a growing resume in hand, Medina immersed himself right into the culinary scene. He took on roles in the kitchen at Artisan in Southport and then The Cottage by celebrated chef Bryan Lewis, before taking over the helm as executive chef of the Pearl at Longshore in Westport before partnering in this newest venture with legendary maître d’ Massimo Tobacco turned part restaurant owner, and Stephen Barone, managing partner and mixologist, who will be overseeing the exceptional bar program of Il Pellicano.

Opened in October of 2022, the newest edition and sure to be hotspot in Fairfield, Medina, Tobacco, and Barone have come out of the gates racing at full speed.

Located in a prime location right in the center of Downtown Fairfield on Post Road, Il Pellicano—already boasting an impeccable wine list—has been approved for what will be the only outdoor rooftop bar in Fairfield early this summer, and it will have its own fully self-sustained bar which will be key to keeping drinks flowing at a steady pace.

Barone is beyond excited about the opportunity this will present, along with the challenges, some of which have already been overcome. He and Tobacco have assembled an incredibly collaborative team that actually came together on accident, born out of a competition for the actual space itself between the two, both now owners. When the space for Il Pellicano became available, Tobacco was interested in it right away and began assembling a strategy to make an offer and purchase it with his financial team. At the same time, Barone, a Connecticut native and local mixologist, was also looking for his own space and became very interested in the location while simultaneously putting together his own financial plan. During COVID, he had helped put the cocktail program on the map at Saltaire Oyster Bar in Port Chester when restaurants got the approval to sell cocktails to-go.

Barone quickly became a master of the batched cocktail and is now applying this strategy to the cocktail program of Il Pellicano with his bar team. Not only will this ensure that cocktails are consistent across the board, regardless of who’s making them, but the speed in which they are made and arrive to your table will also be appreciated by guests. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve re-ordered a drink after having it once because it was so good, only to have something barely resembling the original come out a second time. Not under Barone’s watch.

He will also have three different spritzes, the Venetian with Aperol, Bellini (Mathilde peach cordial), and Sbagliato, made with Il Pellicano’s own barrel aged negroni. Each spritz itself is topped off with Italy’s own bubbly, extra dry Parolvini Prosecco that has its own dedicated draft line and served freezing cold using Sonic style crushed ice.

One of the showstopping cocktails on Il Pellicano’s drink list is the La Fumata (Basil Hayden Toast Bourbon, Amaro Sfumato, Carpano Antica Vermouth, fresh lemon juice) is Barone’s take on a Boulevardier that’s smoked tableside using hickory chips. Other notables, each of which involves a little bartending science are the clarified—meaning all sediments and impurities are removed for a clear cocktail and overall stunning presentation—See-Thru Creamsicle (Las Californias Citrico Gin, homemade limoncello, Meyer lemon clarified milk, and an olive oil washed Tito’s martini.

The philosophy on food and cocktails at Il Pellicano remains closely intertwined with less being more. Focusing on a few really high quality ingredients and components with proper technique to make each dish and cocktail shine, is what Medina and the team are striving for.

Our first bites just happened to be a classic Roman dish, Cacio e Pepe, that I watched Medina make for us in real time. As someone that loves to cook at home, I know this dish can easily be messed up if the right techniques aren’t followed closely. As I savored my first few bites I couldn’t but help appreciate how spot on it was. You can’t hold back on the pepper as many often do Pecorino is essential.

The Bolognese served alongside the Cacio e Pepe was also delicious and is not to be missed. Medina’s recipe is actually a hearty meat sauce instead of a tomato sauce that has some meat in it and it’s served with incredibly light and fresh, house-made fettuccini meant to accompany and support the real star of the dish.

Next, our table was ushered out a few entrees and right away we were amazed at how well everything was presented. We eat with our eyes as they say and the flavors in each dish were classic, honest and well built up, solidifying their presentation. A juicy perfectly cooked NY strip was served up alongside a beautiful green peppercorn and brandy sauce with fresh cut steak fries, and the Pork Chop was the favorite of the group.  

To finish the meal we were ushered out a simple, but yet elegant olive oil cake that proved to be the perfect ending to a meal filled with big flavors, along with a beautifully done Tiramisu and fresh strawberries.

Olive oil flights featuring three different Monini Extra Virgin selections to dunk fresh baked bread into, plus a Spanish influenced char grilled octopus, rustic meatballs in marinara, a heaping bowl of zuppa di pesce, and piadine—a filled and folded in half Roman style flatbread, are just some of Il Pellicano’s other old school meets modern Italian highlights.

In the time while writing this article, Il Pellicano has opened for lunch, Tuesday through Saturday with a great menu that will offer many of the menu staples while Massimo, Stephen, and the rest of the team work to create a memorable experience for you.

1460 Post Road; Fairfield 
203.292.5004 ilpellicanofairfield.com

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