Alma Bistro Cocina Latina Opens in Norwalk With Delicious Nuevo-Latino Soul Food

Jessica Ryan

Alma Cocina brings soul to Norwalk’s Wall Street area.  

I recently had the opportunity to visit the newly opened Alma Bistro. Just a couple of weeks old, this Latin-fusion eatery features delicious Nuevo-Latino soul food with an upscale twist and promises to be the darling of the Norwalk restaurant scene.

Alma Bistro Cocina Latina was founded by Alma Miranda, Ulises Jiminez, Don Rene and Norberto Lucero out of a deep love for food that is authentically Latino. We have some real star power here. 

Norberto Lucero brings his multi-decade talent with him. After leaving New York City in 1994 where he focused on French and Italian Cuisine he came to Norwalk where he opened the revered Habana and spearheaded the Latin-fusion movement in Fairfield County. Other accolades include Westport’s beloved Da Pietro, and Roomba in partnership with Chef Arturo Franco- Camacho (Camacho Garage, Geronimo and Shell & Bones). Norberto, and many years at Brasitas. 

Ulises Jiminez is the owner and head chef of the crowd favorite Don Rene Taqueria in Milford, recently dubbed "Best Hidden Gem" according to CT Insider. Ulises has been in the restaurant industry for over 20 years. From his humble beginnings washing dishes, he worked his way up to head chef at such prominent restaurants as Barcelona Wine Bar, Tacomida, Cactus Rose and Jack's Steakhouse.

Alma Miranda, for whom the restaurant is named after – though she is shy and modest about this (and all her accomplishments) told me that she didn’t want a restaurant named after her, but she loved the meaning of her name, Alma which means “Soul.” Alma Cocina is her third restaurant. When not at the restaurant she’s at her other job – she’s an accountant for the state of Connecticut. Alma emigrated to the States at the tender age of 18 not knowing any English. Her first job landed her in New York City where she assembled hat boxes for Saks Fifth Avenue, but at the urging of her uncle she enrolled at Mercy College where she obtained degrees in Accounting and Computer Science. After graduation she landed at Seagram’s where she started as a clerk and worked her way up the corporate ladder to become one of the company’s accountants. Her career there lasted over 20 years. From there she came to Connecticut and the rest, we shall say, is history!  

While Ulises and Norberto are the “soul” of the menu, and Alma brings hers into the vibrant green space that’s dotted with white furniture and live plants that play off of the spring green tiles along the bar. Along the far wall a beautiful floral mural painted by a local Ecuadorian artist graces the length of the restaurant and a Prosperity Mandela represents all things fresh and new completing the soulful, refreshing and energetic vibe. 

The menu is thoughtful and deliberate – there’s something for everyone – with dishes that are vegan-friendly. All ingredients are high quality as many as possible are locally sourced.

We started with their guacamole and chips. Made with jalapenos, onions, cilantros and onions, to offer just the slightest amount of heat. The Brussel Sprouts, with an agave jalapeno vinaigrette and queso fresco, offered a delightful twist on the popular vegetable choice. I particularly enjoyed the savory juxtaposition of the queso fresco to the sweet flavors of the vinaigrette giving it a unique flavor profile.

I appreciate a good Birria Taco and you’ll get just that here. The traditional dish comprised of beef, a Mexican cheese blend, onion, cilantro and a wonderful beefy consommé is comfort bite after bite.

The Gambas con Chorizo features sautéed shrimp, chorizo, mini chorizo croquettes, garlic and fresh thyme. The flavor combination is incomparably delightful – my reaction was a passionate one! The chorizo pieces offer enough heat to be boldly on their own, but don’t overpower the shrimp. The mini croquettes were absolutely delightful and my only complaint was that they weren’t large enough or that there weren’t more of them! The sauce, like a bow on a gift, is the touch that pulls everything so beautifully. I should have asked for a piece of bread to dredge up all the flavorful goodness, instead we moved on to the next dish. 

The Tuna Tostada by comparison was tender and delicate both in appearance and taste. Thin slices of raw tuna sat upon paper-thin slices of “tostada” with avocado, black and white sesame seeds, miso, ginger, jalapeno and a spicy mayo. Both The Gambas con Chorizo and Tuna Tostadas were both show stoppers. 

Onto the mains… 

We have two more show stoppers here. Meat lovers absolutely must order the Parrillada Argentina. A generous portion of grilled chicken, steak, steak, chorizo and pork-chop, each beautifully prepared and flavored to perfection, topped with a delightful chimichurri sauce. There’s really not much more to say but I will continue to sing its praises to whomever is interested.

Last, and certainly not least the Pollo Chacha-cha is perhaps my favorite of all the dishes. Fans of Barcelona’s Chicken Scarpariello may recognize something here in the chicken preparation – delightfully tender and inordinately flavorful. Served with tomatoes, a white wine sauce, cherry peppers, corn and black bean mashed potatoes, the flavors and textures play so well together to create a dish that’s well balanced and perfectly executed. I haven’t been able to get this dish off my mind!

Did I say the chicken was the last? It’s never truly the end until you have to make room for desert. For those who need to end their dining experience with something sweet you’ll find some gems here as well. Churros are always a good choice for those who want to something to share. Served with a side of chocolate and dulce de leche dipping sauce, these are made to perfection, and I don’t say this lightly. Not listed on the menu (and it really needs to be) was an over-the-top-insanely-delicious Dulce de Leche lava cake. Yes, you read that right, served with a side of mango gelato, fresh fruit and whipped cream this is a really special treat. The unique pairing of the dulce de leche and mango gelato is a magical one.

I cannot wait to return and try some new dishes.

Alma Bistro Cocina Latina is located at 83 Wall Street, Norwalk CT
203-354-5555