The Guinness signs and pug-themed decor have disappeared, and the menu no longer features fish and chips, Irish nachos and shepherd’s pie. The new era of The Corner Pug’s space begins Jan. 23, as chef Ashley Flagg officially opens her first restaurant, The Laurel, in West Hartford.
In July, The Corner Pug’s owner Ted Vetter announced he would close his Irish pub on New Britain Avenue after more than 20 years in business, citing his age and rising costs as reasons for the decision. Soon after, Flagg announced she would be taking over the landmark space in West Hartford’s Elmwood neighborhood, with plans for globally-inspired shareable plates.
Flagg, who most recently served as the executive chef at Millwright’s in Simsbury, co-owns The Laurel with her wife, Rebekah, who is also the general manager. The couple lives in Bloomfield and initially wanted to open their first restaurant there, Flagg said, but they weren’t able to find the right space to fit their needs. When they next toured The Corner Pug, they knew they could make their vision work there.
One of my favorite shows growing up was The Twilight Zone. Most episodes included Rod Serling’s famous, “Imagine, if you will…” and his describing a “fifth dimension” between reality and imagination. I sometimes think of those days, a simpler time when life moved more slowly, where information was absorbed from the three-dimensional surroundings versus the two-dimensional computer screen, where families viewed eating out as a bonus, not as a plan B because everyone was too tired to cook and when every meal was not measured by its TikTok and Instagram potential. Sometimes a restaurant is a place to bring family, outside the Internet measurements, outside the stars, likes and looks, and just serve simple fare at reasonable prices.
The year was 1888. The Civil War was twenty-three years in the past and the Model A was fifteen years in the future, the Statue of Liberty and Washington Monuments were recently dedicated, the US population stood at 50 million, the Standard Oil Company and AT&T were new companies, the Brooklyn Bridge was opened, and newly created Coca Cola was the talk of the south.
In the small town of Matteawan, NY, overlooking the Hudson River, Oven Number 312 was manufactured by the Dutchess Tool Company and sold to F Duhrkop of Meriden, CT. Until the late 1930s, the oven-baked bread at the Pratt Street location, and in 1938 the Verdolini family, forced to relocate its downtown business to Pratt Street, started baking pizza. In 1946, the business was sold to Tony Pascucci who changed the name to the Little Rendezvous. Over seventy-five years later, under the tutelage of its seventh owner, Steve Chehotsky, the Little Rendezvous is now producing one of the best, if not the best, pizza in CT, in one of the state’s longest, continuous-running coal ovens.
This daily heat and humidity can only mean one thing: it’s summertime in Connecticut. It’s also hot dog time in Connecticut! Meat-grilling season is here and Independence Day is right around the corner and with that brings the pressure of entertaining friends and family, lighting off “legal” fireworks, and curating an outdoor feast. But what if you didn’t have to worry about any of those things and instead decided to celebrate the season and holiday somewhere else, say, a local CT eatery that offers delicious hot dogs and other festive culinary options? As someone who grew up working at a hot dog stand, I know what makes a true dog standout from all the rest. Sometimes it’s about the basics, like mustard and kraut, and for others it’s about the chili, cheese, and other specialty toppings that cover the dog. No matter what you have in store for the summer and for the Fourth of July, the hot dog stands, restaurants, and drive-ins on this list will surely make you want to say “screw our plans, let’s keep it simple and leave the food to those that know it best.” And to that we say, “we’ve got you covered!” Goodbye, summer stress. Hello, mouth-watering hot dogs.
I’ve been looking for some great burger and pizza places in “the Valley,” and noticed a few references to a pizza place in Waterbury, Vincenzo's Pizzeria. Looking at their website, I thought it would be like numerous other local Italian restaurants, where I could order a pie, maybe a Parm, sit at one of their tables, and enjoy a quiet lunch.
Fast forward to my visit. Vincenzo's is located about a mile south of I-84’s Chase Parkway exit in Waterbury. As I left the Interstate, I drove through a neighborhood that reminded me of where I grew up, two-story houses, not a lot of commerce, and a sense of community. As my waze went under a quarter of a mile until I arrived at Vincenzo’s, things began to change slightly, I noticed several patio dining areas with white tablecloths jutting from white-painted two-storied restaurants named La Tavola and D’Amelios Italian Eatery, it reminded me of several great neighborhood Italian restaurants from my youth.
In the old days, you would have packed lunch, dinner, and possibly an overnight bag. Now, you make an appointment online, show up, check-in, bam, boom, out in under 30 minutes, total. So when I recently scheduled my visit, I chose a lunchtime appointment so I could combine it with seeking out a hidden gem in Waterbury. And this time I finally found one…Domenick & Pia Downtown Pizzeria.
Domenick and Pia is located at 3 Brook St. around the corner from the Palace Theatre and the University of Connecticut (Waterbury) and has served pizza to the local community for over 50 years. Any place that successfully thrived and survived through those economic swings of Waterbury has something to offer. To say Domenick and Pia is a hole in the wall would be an understatement. While the exterior reflects the recent gentrification of this small part of Waterbury, walk through the doors and whoosh, back to the 1970s. The general ambiance of the interior is probably reflecting its grand opening with Formica-topped and wood-trimmed tables, push-on prices reminiscent of the side-of-the-road hamburger stands, red plastic trays to carry your pick-up order to the table, the whole nine yards. My guess is the original pie-price was under $2, with a 25-cent slice-price. There is no glamour, no TVs, no beer, just good old-fashioned pizza, a couple of hot oven grinders, a ton of drink options, and one of the most pleasant staff imaginable. To succeed with this formula, the pizza better be really good. Mission accomplished.
Hot dogs have been around in various shapes and sizes for centuries, some say dating back to 700 BC; today they are a staple at Fourth of July and church BBQs and grabbing a red hot at Yankee Stadium and Shea Stadium was always my go-to food. Natural casing, foot-long, knockwurst, beef, pork, chicken, veggie, tofu, cheese conies, they have been a part of the American culinary scene since forever. There is something special about the salty-spicy combo, the ease of eating, the number of toppings that make them even better…sometimes they are the canvas, sometimes they are the art.
Finding a great and fun hot dog in CT has been an adventure, so when I read that Gooseboro Drive-In in Bantam was awarded the best hot dog at the Litchfield Fair, it definitely hit my radar.
With hints from St. Tropez, Ibiza, Cancun and Morocco, it’s hard to pinpoint any one particular region of influence. The vibe here is stunning, almost exotic, upscale yet casual, offering a diners an experience that is very much meant to be shared.
I recently spoke with Patrick Jean, Nomade’s co-owner and General Manager – also former owner of the much loved St. Tropez in Fairfield, the now shuttered Pearl at Longshore and Forza, as well as Rive Bistro and Hudson Malone – knew exactly how he wanted to transform the former Tavern on Main space which although cozy, felt dark and cavernous. His vision was to create a place where people would feel as though they were visiting someplace extraordinary and welcoming.
While the menu options seem to lean in favor of fish and seafood, there are plenty of animal protein options. I had the privilege of visiting the restaurant twice, once for lunch and once for dinner, thus enabling me to try a variety of dishes. The menu, globally inspired, boasts flavors from the Pacific Rim, Mediterranean basin and areas in between.
With all that I tried I found the following to be worth writing home about.
Occasionally, food writing doesn’t go as planned. And with lots of restaurants taking summer breaks, it’s easy for us to screw up a random visit, like a recent one at Dante’s Pizza in New Canaan.
Steph and I both pulled into their parking lot, then we grabbed a seat at a picnic table on their patio only to notice a note on the door saying, “We’re on vacation until September 13.”
Summer bummer.
This sucked for two reasons: we desperately wanted pizza and from a writing standpoint we needed content!
How does Mystic do it? In such a small area, there’s a steady stream of creativity and passion, delectable food, and now, with The Port of Call, there’s a reason it has become my home away from home.
Dripping with history, the new two-in-one stop, is a complete experience. With a friendly Welcome from manager Nancy Hankins, your eyes, mind, and belly (not necessarily in that order), will be lit up and spun into a whir of pleasure when learning about the location’s past, the collaborations forged, not to mention the top notch drink and food offerings. Notice, I said drink then food….
The “Million Miles” Bar is front and center as you walk through the stately, yet otherwise, unassuming exterior. That’s because the drinks, or shall I say beverage program, is the first star on stage. Although we often enter a restaurant hungry, we are being not-so gently, happily hypnotized first by the drinks that will then be paired by knock-out plates honoring global ports. We’ve been conditioned to think about the food before deciding what drink to pair with it; The Port of Call is asking us to think in reverse: “Wet” your palates first, sailors. Helmed by Jade Ayala (who also rocks the booze next door at Oyster Club) and Sebastian Guerrero (of NYC’s Dante and Mother of Pearl), your drink will come with a “generous pour,” as my feller put it, and a side tale about the area’s notorious seafaring past.
There's a spot in Stratford most people can't see. An eighth of an acre, give or take, on Rt. 110 between I-95 and the River Road, where nothing seems to exist unless you're looking right at it. Focus your eyes on the spot, and your mind might register the word "Deli" on the storefront, which itself might be different each time you did, because they've been opening and closing in the location for years, flashing in and out of existence with the frequency of the scroll on an electronic billboard. There was nothing wrong with any of them, they just didn't send a signal from enough people's eyes to their brake pedals. A new spot has them taking notice.
¡Ay Güey! Cafe & Cocina Mexicana is a wholly different concept, and has transformed the space as much as the food served within. Everything from every deli before it went out the window. The interior is bright white, with inset drink coolers and a few tables for inside dining, while the sidewalk patio has been joined by a fenced and landscaped outdoor dining area to the side. Snag a Mexican Coca Cola, Mundet, Jarritos, etc. and whatever from the case and take a good luck the menu. Horchata, Topo Chico, and cafe de Olla (coffee dosed up with cinnamon and Piloncillo raw sugar) are also available for the soda-averse.
Nestled in a strip mall in the Broad River section of Norwalk, you could easily miss Antojos Columbian restaurant. You’ve probably driven by, and barely noticed it, or you may remember our write up on this hidden gem back in 2017. Whether you’re new to Antojos, or a loyal customer, you’ll want to pay attention. They are serving up some seriously tasty authentic Columbian fare, and some exciting new menu items have recently dropped. We felt they were ready for their close-up. Enjoy the photo journey, complete with menu names for easy ordering. Get that drool cup ready…
Chris Hickey, Andrey Cortes, Christopher Rasile, Shawn Longyear, and Carlos Baez decided to close their Spread sequel in Greenwich at the end of July, an announcement that came on the heels that they relocated their South Norwalk flagship to the former Harlan Publick space in the Ironworks development, adjacent to their global street food concept, El Segundo.
But with all that comes even more change in the form of El Segundo’s brunch menu.
Brunch was always a thing at El Segundo Norwalk but it’s the New Haven opening that sparked the change according to Hickey.
“The new menu is totally in line with the New Haven opening,” he says. “Brunch was instantly popular in New Haven, so we wanted to bring it to SoNo, too.”
A couple of months ago John and Morgan Nealon (owners of the ever popular Taco Daddy) partnered up with Chef Mo Major, General Manager JJ Henao, and Mixologist Dave Cohade to create a restaurant experience like no other. This restaurant is The Lila Rose, a luxurious, sophisticated, whimsical and (I dare say) over-the-top restaurant.
The interior, dressed entirely in shades of pink and gold, is distinctly feminine with a flirty vibe that’s sophisticated yet playful. The Lila Rose is a delicious feast for the eyes offering up so much exquisite detail, you can’t possibly take it all in.
I had the opportunity to sample their menu a couple of weeks ago. With so few opportunities to “get away” these days, the Lila Rose fills that void, offering guests a truly memorable experience. This is the type of venue where you’ll want to slip into something more beautiful and we noticed that the guests thought so too.
It’s always exciting to see a company whose positioning in the marketplace you have loved and respected for years, launch a brand that is such a logical extension of their business, that you almost have to say, why didn’t they do this sooner? Sometimes it takes a pandemic to have the time and space to look into the soul of your business and ask, what’s next? Barcelona Wine Bar has done just that with the launch of their new online specialty foods shopping and lifestyle website, CONSERVA.
What is CONSERVA? Quite literally, Conserva are foods that have been conserved or preserved (either packed in oil, vinegar, or pickled). Barcelona Partner, Adam Halberg, broke it down for us. “During the Spanish Civil War, when people didn’t have access to fresh foods, they invented canning to take the abundance from the coast and farms of Spain and package them in bulk. This was their war time pantry.” In current day Spain, “conserva” is considered a high end specialty product, and diners can find bars throughout Spain and Portugal that exclusively serve canned goods (with a side of Vermouth, of course). Adam continues, “In high end restaurants, the last page of a menu will often feature food that quite literally comes out of a tin…and they are often the most expensive thing on the menu.”
Walking in to meet the legendary “Rosie” of Rosie New Canaan, I had full clarity within 30 seconds as to what has made this uber delicious global comfort food spot so beloved for 16 years. Sure, it’s the 2 pound blueberry muffins that could make a grown man weep, and the love that goes into the 6 hour stewed black beans in Rosie’s hueveos rancheros, but truly it is Rosie Bonura herself that makes this place feel like home (but with far better fare than you’d find in your own kitchen). She herself is the perfect recipe of creative energy, passion, and love for her community. This New Canaan fixture, whom I came to realize, after sitting streetside with her, knows everyone in the town by name, came racing out of the kitchen to greet me (we’d never met in person), virtually hugged me, (cuz’ Covid), and said “I need to get a batch of cookies out of the oven, I’ll be right back.”
Steaming hot, wrapped in a bun, the hot dog, frankfurter, red hot, tube steak, wiener, frank, weenie, dirty water dog, dachshund, all relate to spiced pork or beef stuffed inside a casing, then fried, grilled, smoked, boiled, steamed, and placed in a long roll, topped with numerous toppings and devoured. They are so popular that Spotify offers over 300 songs about hot dogs, from Elvis to Zeppelin, Joey Chestnut is a household name for eating 75 hot dogs in 10 minutes, and outrageous antics of flamboyant athletes are called “hot-dogging.”
What a full circle moment. I first met our editor Stephanie Webster, affectionately known as Boss Lady, almost two years ago at El Segundo in SONO before I started eating myself silly for ctbites. So, I’d say it’s fitting that I get to bring you the news that the segundo El Segundo is opening in New Haven THIS TUESDAY, August 25th. It makes PERFECT sense that a place that consistently delivers super friggin delish-us Global Street Food, land in a town like New Haven, which is a gorgeous microcosm of what our bruised little world has to offer.
