Nomade Opens in Westport

Jessica Ryan

With hints from St. Tropez, Ibiza, Cancun and Morocco, it’s hard to pinpoint any one particular region of influence. The vibe here is stunning, almost exotic, upscale yet casual, offering a diners an experience that is very much meant to be shared. 

I recently spoke with Patrick Jean, Nomade’s co-owner and General Manager – also former owner of the much loved St. Tropez in Fairfield, the now shuttered Pearl at Longshore and Forza, as well as Rive Bistro and Hudson Malone – knew exactly how he wanted to transform the former Tavern on Main space which although cozy, felt dark and cavernous. His vision was to create a place where people would feel as though they were visiting someplace extraordinary and welcoming. The newly remodeled interior suggests a Northern African sensibility with its open and minimalist décor of white stucco walls and ceilings, pale wood furniture, buttery leather cushions and pillows, and copious amounts of wicker and rattan (used primarily for the lighting) that were imported directly from Morocco, along with the glassware, dishes and blankets.

The furniture is incredibly comfortable, all the better for lingering with that extra glass of wine, cocktail or dessert. Patrick partnered up with Co-owner Ciara Webster and Chef Zoltan Kovacs to bring this vacation-like destination to fruition.

Stroll through the restaurant to the outdoor dining and bar area and the ambiance changes immediately – here we feel as though we’re transported to a small Spanish island deep in the heart of the Mediterranean. The furniture is carried through to the outside where the wicker lighting in all shapes and sizes hang en masse, dramatically and whimsically. There are plenty of fans all around to keep the area comfortable even on the warmest of summer days. Oversized sliding windows can be drawn in an instant to protect diners from the elements and cooler temperatures.

While the menu options seem to lean in favor of fish and seafood, there are plenty of animal protein options. I had the privilege of visiting the restaurant twice, once for lunch and once for dinner, thus enabling me to try a variety of dishes. The menu, globally inspired, boasts flavors from the Pacific Rim, Mediterranean basin and areas in between.

With all that I tried I found the following to be worth writing home about.

The Charred Octopus was tender to the bite. Slices of chorizo added a nice hint of heat that lingered on the tongue, balanced by the milder palate of tender multi-colored fingerling potatoes. A cilantro pesto added a piquant, herby flavor and the slices of celery surprised us with their color, texture and taste which rounded out the dish nicely.

I tried all three crispy rice dishes and the Spicy Tuna stood out as my favorite – Delicate bits of tuna blended with spicy Sriracha, Kewpie mayo atop a square of crispy rice that crackled with each bite.

The Beef Carpaccio with delicate, paper-thin, melt-in-your-mouth pieces of steak, shaved Grana Padano (Parmesan-like in flavor and consistency), fried capers, lemon oil and an arugula salad make a wonderful and light entry dish.

The Shrimp Cocktail shooters are truly special. Plump, succulent shrimp sit atop a shot glass filled with a stunning mango juice with bursts of cilantro. There are so many flavors here and boy do they play well together.

The Deviled Eggs are devilish indeed – Creamy and decadent these luxurious little bites topped with bacon, Parmesan crisps and Sriracha oil elevate the playing field. Are fried oysters your jam? Though not on the menu (yet) Chef sent some out for us to try topped with Wellfleets and pickled onion – Yes Chef, please put these on the menu ASAP!

Another not to be missed dish is the Razor Clams. With smoked chili oil, bacon and chives this small dish was very much large on flavor.

Moving on to the entrées… Alas I’ve only tried one so far as I was overzealous with my small plates. The Manila Clams with Fettuccine is as visually stunning as it is delicious. An abundance of clams in white wine fish broth, garlic, parsley, yellow and red cherry tomatoes and chili flakes sit atop a generous serving of fettuccine.  

Also worth mentioning is their stunning Cocktail Program. We quite enjoyed their Nomade Pisco made with Passion fruit, egg white, lime juice and simple syrup, the smoky Nomarita made with Mezcal, watermelon, passion fruit, and lime juice and the refreshing Basil Baby with gin, lime juice, St. Germaine, fresh cucumber & basil. For those preferring a sober life a creative mocktail selection is also available.

Chef Zoltan comes by way of Hungary where he attended Aranybika Culinary Institute in Debrecen. While attending school he worked at some of Budapest’s Michelin restaurants.  He arrived in the States at the young age of 20 and interned at such esteemed restaurants as Café Boulud, Le Bernadin and Blanca. Fellow Hungarian, Chef Roland Olah would mentor him here in Connecticut at Martel before moving on to open his own restaurant, Bruxelles Brasserie in South Norwalk. 

I’m eager to return and try a few more items… the gentleman next to us ordered The Angus Beef Burger which looked rather enticing. 

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, and now offers brunch on Sundays (more for us to try!) They are currently not accepting reservations – Walk-in are welcome.
Nomade is closed on Mondays.

The full menu is available on their website www.nomadewestport.com