The Guinness signs and pug-themed decor have disappeared, and the menu no longer features fish and chips, Irish nachos and shepherd’s pie. The new era of The Corner Pug’s space begins Jan. 23, as chef Ashley Flagg officially opens her first restaurant, The Laurel, in West Hartford.
In July, The Corner Pug’s owner Ted Vetter announced he would close his Irish pub on New Britain Avenue after more than 20 years in business, citing his age and rising costs as reasons for the decision. Soon after, Flagg announced she would be taking over the landmark space in West Hartford’s Elmwood neighborhood, with plans for globally-inspired shareable plates.
Flagg, who most recently served as the executive chef at Millwright’s in Simsbury, co-owns The Laurel with her wife, Rebekah, who is also the general manager. The couple lives in Bloomfield and initially wanted to open their first restaurant there, Flagg said, but they weren’t able to find the right space to fit their needs. When they next toured The Corner Pug, they knew they could make their vision work there.
With hints from St. Tropez, Ibiza, Cancun and Morocco, it’s hard to pinpoint any one particular region of influence. The vibe here is stunning, almost exotic, upscale yet casual, offering a diners an experience that is very much meant to be shared.
I recently spoke with Patrick Jean, Nomade’s co-owner and General Manager – also former owner of the much loved St. Tropez in Fairfield, the now shuttered Pearl at Longshore and Forza, as well as Rive Bistro and Hudson Malone – knew exactly how he wanted to transform the former Tavern on Main space which although cozy, felt dark and cavernous. His vision was to create a place where people would feel as though they were visiting someplace extraordinary and welcoming.
While the menu options seem to lean in favor of fish and seafood, there are plenty of animal protein options. I had the privilege of visiting the restaurant twice, once for lunch and once for dinner, thus enabling me to try a variety of dishes. The menu, globally inspired, boasts flavors from the Pacific Rim, Mediterranean basin and areas in between.
With all that I tried I found the following to be worth writing home about.
How does Mystic do it? In such a small area, there’s a steady stream of creativity and passion, delectable food, and now, with The Port of Call, there’s a reason it has become my home away from home.
Dripping with history, the new two-in-one stop, is a complete experience. With a friendly Welcome from manager Nancy Hankins, your eyes, mind, and belly (not necessarily in that order), will be lit up and spun into a whir of pleasure when learning about the location’s past, the collaborations forged, not to mention the top notch drink and food offerings. Notice, I said drink then food….
The “Million Miles” Bar is front and center as you walk through the stately, yet otherwise, unassuming exterior. That’s because the drinks, or shall I say beverage program, is the first star on stage. Although we often enter a restaurant hungry, we are being not-so gently, happily hypnotized first by the drinks that will then be paired by knock-out plates honoring global ports. We’ve been conditioned to think about the food before deciding what drink to pair with it; The Port of Call is asking us to think in reverse: “Wet” your palates first, sailors. Helmed by Jade Ayala (who also rocks the booze next door at Oyster Club) and Sebastian Guerrero (of NYC’s Dante and Mother of Pearl), your drink will come with a “generous pour,” as my feller put it, and a side tale about the area’s notorious seafaring past.
Chris Hickey, Andrey Cortes, Christopher Rasile, Shawn Longyear, and Carlos Baez decided to close their Spread sequel in Greenwich at the end of July, an announcement that came on the heels that they relocated their South Norwalk flagship to the former Harlan Publick space in the Ironworks development, adjacent to their global street food concept, El Segundo.
But with all that comes even more change in the form of El Segundo’s brunch menu.
Brunch was always a thing at El Segundo Norwalk but it’s the New Haven opening that sparked the change according to Hickey.
“The new menu is totally in line with the New Haven opening,” he says. “Brunch was instantly popular in New Haven, so we wanted to bring it to SoNo, too.”
A couple of months ago John and Morgan Nealon (owners of the ever popular Taco Daddy) partnered up with Chef Mo Major, General Manager JJ Henao, and Mixologist Dave Cohade to create a restaurant experience like no other. This restaurant is The Lila Rose, a luxurious, sophisticated, whimsical and (I dare say) over-the-top restaurant.
The interior, dressed entirely in shades of pink and gold, is distinctly feminine with a flirty vibe that’s sophisticated yet playful. The Lila Rose is a delicious feast for the eyes offering up so much exquisite detail, you can’t possibly take it all in.
I had the opportunity to sample their menu a couple of weeks ago. With so few opportunities to “get away” these days, the Lila Rose fills that void, offering guests a truly memorable experience. This is the type of venue where you’ll want to slip into something more beautiful and we noticed that the guests thought so too.
It’s always exciting to see a company whose positioning in the marketplace you have loved and respected for years, launch a brand that is such a logical extension of their business, that you almost have to say, why didn’t they do this sooner? Sometimes it takes a pandemic to have the time and space to look into the soul of your business and ask, what’s next? Barcelona Wine Bar has done just that with the launch of their new online specialty foods shopping and lifestyle website, CONSERVA.
What is CONSERVA? Quite literally, Conserva are foods that have been conserved or preserved (either packed in oil, vinegar, or pickled). Barcelona Partner, Adam Halberg, broke it down for us. “During the Spanish Civil War, when people didn’t have access to fresh foods, they invented canning to take the abundance from the coast and farms of Spain and package them in bulk. This was their war time pantry.” In current day Spain, “conserva” is considered a high end specialty product, and diners can find bars throughout Spain and Portugal that exclusively serve canned goods (with a side of Vermouth, of course). Adam continues, “In high end restaurants, the last page of a menu will often feature food that quite literally comes out of a tin…and they are often the most expensive thing on the menu.”
Walking in to meet the legendary “Rosie” of Rosie New Canaan, I had full clarity within 30 seconds as to what has made this uber delicious global comfort food spot so beloved for 16 years. Sure, it’s the 2 pound blueberry muffins that could make a grown man weep, and the love that goes into the 6 hour stewed black beans in Rosie’s hueveos rancheros, but truly it is Rosie Bonura herself that makes this place feel like home (but with far better fare than you’d find in your own kitchen). She herself is the perfect recipe of creative energy, passion, and love for her community. This New Canaan fixture, whom I came to realize, after sitting streetside with her, knows everyone in the town by name, came racing out of the kitchen to greet me (we’d never met in person), virtually hugged me, (cuz’ Covid), and said “I need to get a batch of cookies out of the oven, I’ll be right back.”
What a full circle moment. I first met our editor Stephanie Webster, affectionately known as Boss Lady, almost two years ago at El Segundo in SONO before I started eating myself silly for ctbites. So, I’d say it’s fitting that I get to bring you the news that the segundo El Segundo is opening in New Haven THIS TUESDAY, August 25th. It makes PERFECT sense that a place that consistently delivers super friggin delish-us Global Street Food, land in a town like New Haven, which is a gorgeous microcosm of what our bruised little world has to offer.
The Spread you know and love from Main Street in South Norwalk has some new digs and a whole new summer look. Spread owners Andrey Cortes, Chris Hickey, Chris Rasile, Shawn Longyear and Chef Carlos Baez have taken their much heralded menu and rustic industrial vibe, and moved down the street, next door to their sister spot, El Segundo. The new spot resides in the old Harlan Public location within the IronWorks complex, and it comes with one of the most beautiful outdoor dining spaces in Fairfield County. Loyal diners and regulars….don’t worry. The menu will feature all of the usual favorites such as their Brick Chicken and Ricotta Gnocchi but Chef Baez has a few surprises up his chef’s coat.
There are some ingredients in this world that, when you add them to anything, they pretty much make it spectacular. Bacon, for example. It would probably make a sneaker taste good. “Air” is another ingredient. Air-a bizarre ingredient on an episode of Chopped? No. Air, as in fresh air. Eating outside. Have you noticed that when you eat a lobster roll outside on a deck overlooking the ocean, it makes you happy? Or eat a grilled burger at a picnic table on a warm summer evening? Or sip a frothy cappuccino at a sidewalk cafe? What is the common ingredient here? Fresh air. Good food combined with a hefty dose of the outdoors.
And lucky for you, we’ve put together a long list of our favorite eateries (40+) that have lovely outdoor dining spaces.
If we missed an outdoor venue you frequent, please share your find below.
As food writers, photographers, and chefs, we have the pleasure of eating a lot of really great food. Fairfield County has experienced something of a restaurant explosion over the past year, as new chefs move in and move on, and menus expand. We've endeavored to expand our coverage beyond those borders, seeking to cover more of the state and sharing those experiences that are worth seeking out. Instead of coming up with a top ten list ourselves, we asked the CTbites extended family to share some of their most memorable meals and dining experiences this past year.
"My Signature Dish" is a new CTbites column featuring a rotating cast of chefs, and the dishes that define their cooking style, or simply make them happy to fire up the stove.
Jodi Bernhard hardly hesitated when choosing her signature dish at Fortina, Christian Petroni’s "casually hip" Italian restaurant in Armonk. Her eyes gleaming, she said, "It's our Pork Braciole." Braciole, hip?
If you grew up Italian, you probably hold memories of Braciole near and dear. This classic rolled, stuffed meat roast, usually serves as centerpiece for those sprawling homemade Italian dinners that lazily linger across Sunday afternoons into evening. Braciole invokes home. And family. Instant Nostalgia.
Ok, so how does a chef modernize a memory? Autograph a treasured family photo?
“That is the gist of our approach at Fortina,” Jodi explained. “ We try to not stray too far from ‘mom's’ version, but still make it a restaurant dish with our stamp on it. We are true to simplicity and flavor.”
The notion of putting “Mom’s dish” on Fortina’s playful, hip menu was Christian’s, one of the restaurant’s owners. (Patroni and and Jodi once cooked together at Barcelona in nearby Greenwich.) Though she and Christian work as collaborators, the task of “restaurantizing” this homey meal was largely up to Bernhard.
Cooking with wood fire has a preternatural, almost primal appeal. You could argue that as cavemen, it was our first foray into comfort food. The intense heat and smoke has the power to transform otherwise unassuming ingredients. The six-month old Fortina in Armonk, begins with this deceptively simple ethos–Italian food, cooked simply, in wood fired ovens–and elevates it with a thoughtful culinary execution and a familiar, if familial, disarming vibe.
“There is a complexity to the simplicity,” said Rob Krauss, one of Fortina’s three partners along with John Nealon and Christian Petroni, nailing what makes the restaurant’s cuisine tick. I’m fairly certain Krauss is also referring to the restaurant’s team, an extended family of sorts that works equally hard at the food as they do cultivating the culture at Fortina
More than the sum of its wood-fired parts, Fortina relies on the culinary prowess and Italian heritage of partner and Executive Chef Christian Petroni, formerly of Barcelona Greenwich, as both muse and ringleader. “My background is Italian, I grew up spending summers in Ponza. One of my favorite restaurants is Peasant. As a young cook, Frank de Carlo was an inspiration as a chef. I was intrigued by cooking in wood ovens. There is something about it that is so gratifying. It’s a beautiful thing.” Along with chef de cuisine Jodi Bernhard, formerly of Barcelona, the kitchen has the creative chops responsible for its daily printed menu.
Fairfield county residents will be soon crossing the border (passports not required)-- into Upper Westchester County's suburb of Armonk, after this week's opening of Fortina. Chef Christian Petroni, recently Executive Chef of Greenwich's Barcelona Restaurant, is joined by John Nealon, ex-GM of the same provenance and Nealon's childhood friend, Rob Krauss as business partners. Both Nealon and Krauss originally hail from Westport. Petroni, a local himself, is also co-owner of Cooked & Co., in Scarsdale.
Recalling the many memorable meals he had eaten during his time spent in Italy, Petroni's vision was to bring Italy's simple authentic flavors, cooking methods and presentation to the dishes he serves at Fortina. This vision is executed with the help of 2 wood burning ovens imported straight from Naples, Italy which serve as a focal point in the main dining room. In fact with the exception of just a few menu items, everything is cooked in these fiery hearths...even a pasta dish or two! (And you should hear Petroni when he speaks of his ovens...like a proud new Papa )
