After he gave the closed-to-the-public dining room a warm welcome on a summer Saturday in August, Damon Sawyer told diners that they were about to experience something rare.
“To my knowledge, this has never been done in Bridgeport before.”
Ask Forrest Pasternack about being back in Ridgefield and he’ll tell you that “there’s nothing quite like home.”
Already well traveled in this area and in New York as a renowned chef at several acclaimed restaurant, Pasternack may be best known to locals from his five-years when he headed up the kitchen at the O.G. farm-to-table restaurant Bailey’s Backyard from 2013 – 2018.
After a handful of years away, Pasternack is back!
But where’s he been all this time?
Well, a bunch of places and one big one at the same time.
Earlier this summer, I was in attendance for one of the friends & family previews of The Benjamin, a new French – American restaurant in Ridgefield that took over the historic property that was once home to Bernard’s and Sarah’s Wine Bar.
Gabagool Wine Bar is the newest incarnation of the former Fairfield favorite, Toto Restaurant, which shut its doors suddenly and unexpectedly about a year and a half ago. I worried that, tragically, this too had succumbed to the pandemic, but alas – and thankfully, such was not the case.
The restaurant that occupied the main level in the red building on Reef Road sat vacant and dark for over a year. This was all due to massive flood caused by a ruptured pipe. With water everywhere, the restaurant’s interior needed to be completely gutted and rebuilt. Thankfully for us restauranteur and owner Antonio Ninivaggi does as only Antonio does… He turned his lemons into limoncello, and thus Gabagool Wine Bar was born.
Nestled in a quiet corner of a shopping plaza located right off of the hustle and bustle of Fairfield’s Black Rock Turnpike is Vespino Pizza + Restaurant. Located in the space that was formerly Stefano’s, Vespino fills a void in the area’s restaurant scene. Best described as elevated casual in a stylishly modern setting, Vespino is an ideal choice for a quick neighborhood lunch, casual dinner with friends and family, or an after work cocktail. Vespino has already established a loyal clientele and has earned praises for their pizza, pasta, appetizers and main dishes. Sister restaurant to longtime local favorite Quattro Pazzi Café, Organika and the newer kid on the block, Pizza Lyfe in Westport, we came in with high expectations, eager to try a few dishes ourselves.
Ask any fine dining enthusiast in our state and there’s a strong chance The Essex, owned by chef Colt Taylor, get a glowing recommendation.
While writing this, it’s important to mention I’ve personally never been to The Essex. I simply know its reputation and I’ve heard the raves from my nerdiest food friends. I’ll get up to Old Saybrook soon, but before I check off The Essex, I wanted to meet Taylor at his other concept, Los Charros Cantina, where the menu marriage is a co-existence of authentic Mexican cuisine and L.A. style Mexican.
Soul.
That’s the word Adrian Hurtado uses when he describes the food he serves at his newly opened restaurant in Norwalk that’s an extension of his food truck, Taco Guy.
“I have chicken tinga on the menu because it runs in my family, going back to my great-great grandparents,” he says. “When you’re eating here, you’re getting my culture, my family tradition, and a piece of what’s in my soul.”
But for Hurtado, who grew up in the hospitality industry learning the ropes at the popular Super Taqueria Las Salsas in Bridgeport that’s owned by his father, he chose to not be a taquero as an adult.
Instead, he started making pizzas at Bar Sugo in Norwalk before hopping behind the bar as a bar back.
You’ve just sat down at the newly opened Greer Southern Table in Norwalk. You either order a refreshing, fruity, ice cold cocktail, or you’re like me and despite it being 90 degrees, you still order an old fashioned. You scan the menu. You probably ponder over a few tasty dishes to share with your dining companions.
“A lot of the food we serve is inspired by being a kid,” says Fryborg owner Jonathan Gibbons. “In Milford, an older guy in his 80s comes in regularly and he remarked that my food is like when he was a kid. That made me feel really good. The food, the video game table, the bubble hockey, it’s all about nostalgia.”
For many, me included, “nostalgia” is the right work to describe Fryborg.
Mercato Italian Kitchen is a new favorite spot for inspired beverages, and they are newly open in the Farmington Valley serving drinks that are more fire than their pizza ovens (which both have names. I never knew pizza ovens had names.)
After doing a live creative session on Instagram with Bianca Giuliano, their bar manager and beverage curator, I was instantly intrigued by her ingredients and drinks that were based on classic cocktails, but with crowd pleasing twists and riffs.
The bar staff was just as enthusiastic and passionate about the menu as Bianca, so rest assured: you’ll get the full Mercato experience no matter which one you choose.
The Canton Location just opened its doors for dinner this week, and is a “must try” for anyone in the valley that loves amazing drinks (her 0%ABV menu ROCKS, by the way!) perfectly rustic wood fired pies, and great ambience. (SIDE NOTE: I had a great burger with burrata)
In July of 2021, Mike Geller and his dedicated team at Mike’s Organic held an announcement event in the Cos Cob section of Greenwich where the bones of the former Patio.com store stood a vacant eyesore for about two years.
That day, in the parking lot, friends and family gathered, food was devoured, and drinks were sipped as Geller enthusiastically spoke about the expansion of his Stamford-based grocery delivery service that would be taking over the 600 E Putnam Avenue space as a grocery store, selling all the finest local, farm fresh produce, meat, seafood, and top notch products that Mike’s Organic has become known for over the years.
Fast forward to less than two years later, like right now, in the present, and Mike’s Organic Grocery is a real thing, as in, you can officially shop there! Preorder. Pick up. Push a cart and browse the shelves. Swing by for a grab-n-go lunch or dinner by their own “Made By Mike’s” lineup of salads, sandwiches, entrées, and more that are all made in-house. And we’re positive that there’s more in store when it comes to this new grocery store.
I recently caught up with Geller for an interview because, honestly, there’s no one better than him to speak about the brand he has created through years of cultivating relationships with farmers and purveyors the way he can.
At the beginning of 2023, CTbites covered a new Latin American restaurant in Norwalk called Alma Bistro, owned by Alma Miranda and Ulises Jimenez. It was at Alma Bistro where my memory was jogged when Miranda mentioned that Jimenez, who wasn’t present on the day of our visit, is also the owner and head chef at Don Rene Taqueria in Milford.
Don Rene had been on my Windows Notepad program that serves a double purpose as a calendar where I keep a running list of places I’m interested in covering. I know, I’m so organized.
Three months after that article went live, I found myself kicking it with Jimenez at his super busy taqueria where Mexican tacos and apps are the canvas, but it’s also where Jimenez flexes his creative chops and blends in flavors from other cultures.
Jimenez, who’s from Mexico originally, opened Don Rene in 2021 in the growing Milford Downtown that already includes a Colony Grill location, Scratch Baking, Archie Moore’s, and the outstanding Strega.
Ridgefield’s West Lane is about to look a whole lot different after the transformation of Bernard’s Restaurant and Sarah’s Wine Bar to The Benjamin, brought to you by a trio of well-known Norwalk restaurateurs in Dave Studwell and Rob Moss of Washington Prime and B.J. Lawless of BJ Ryan’s Restaurant Group.
What began as a pandemic bagel baking hobby for Adam Goldberg has increased tenfold, and that’s putting it very lightly.
PopUp Bagels kicked off three years ago when Goldberg and his cousin Jeff Lewis started making bagels for family and friends. Rave reviews led Goldberg to launching a backyard preorder pickup bagel biz that sold out time and time again.
South Norwalk, not counting its mainstay restaurants, tends to be a revolving door. One business goes out, some months pass, and another concept magically appears in its place.
For Bruxelles Brasserie, known for its French – Belgian fare, this all happened a bit differently.
Wait. Did I say Bruxelles? I surely meant Taproot. Or maybe I meant both…
With the recent news that Bruxelles Brasserie closed as of April 9 and will be taken over by Jeff Taibe and reopen as Taproot, French cuisine in South Norwalk has all but evaporated.
But before the French-Belgian Bruxelles made this announcement, and at the beginning of 2023, Appetit Bistro, a more classic French restaurant, decided to switch things up, too.
For Appetit’s owners, Edwin Montoya and chef Ismael Carias, whose Port Chester location is still going strong at eight years and counting, their concept simply didn’t catch on in SoNo despite seeing an initial boom of customers.
When CTbites last covered Milestone for their 2019 opening, we gave you an introduction to the Redding restaurant’s owners, Peter and Andi Fine, plus a rundown of their wood-fired pizzas and their “comfort food with a twist” approach.
In the comments on that very article, “Jake” hit us with this statement:
“Don’t short change the burger!!! It’s the best!”
For those of you who have been craving a good New York style pizza that you can really sink your teeth into, let us introduce you to Pizza Lyfe, a slice of heaven in the heart of New Haven style pizza country.
Pizza Lyfe prides itself on using only the best and freshest of ingredients. Their specially made mozzarella comes from the Bronx, a location so secret they wouldn’t even share it with us ‘off the record.’ The dough is made from a special unbleached, high-protein flour that is fermented for two days before becoming a delicious pizza crust.
The menu is diverse with traditional cheese and pepperoni pizza pies (that are also available by the slice and very reasonably priced) as well as their specialty pies which are best described as a Neopolitan/New York, hybrid.
Traditional cheese slices and pies can be augmented with toppings such as sausage, meatball, onion, red peppers, bacon, spinach, broccoli, mushrooms, and olives to name a few. Their specialty pizzas include Salad Pizza, Margarita Pizza, White Pizza, Spicy Pizza Lyfe, Veggie Pizza, Truffled Mushroom, Pineapple and Ham, Buffalo Chicken, Burrata, Meatlovers and Artichoke. There are also two weekly specials on rotation.
If you work hard enough and put in the time to learn your craft, then success is sure to follow. Just ask Saul Medina of the newly opened Il Pellicano in Fairfield. Medina’s journey to this point in his culinary career proves that there are many different paths one can take, and if followed, will lead to the same desired destination of becoming a head chef. Born in Puebla, Mexico, he migrated to the U.S., and like so many before him, landed in New York City. He brought with him a deep love of food and cooking, both taught to him at a young age by his grandmother and aunts. Without any formal training, Medina started at the bottom as a dishwasher but quickly worked his way up the kitchen ranks. His strong work ethic, desire to learn, and ability to travel gave him crucial experience and the necessary exposure to many different styles of food very quickly.
“I remember we had just unlocked the doors at Walrus + Carpenter, and the first two customers that came in ordered a Bud Lights and a Coors Light. I heard Adam (Patrick) go, ‘Oh, we don’t have that.’ And one of the guys goes, ‘Fuck you! You won’t last’ That was our first reaction.”
