Thin crust. Roman style. Pan pizza. Bar pies. Artisan. Grilled. Foldable New York slices.
Norwalk has all of that. And you can insert your own quip about there being “too much Italian” if you want.
What Norwalk has been missing in its dining history is a true wood-fired Neapolitan pizzeria.
Check that. “Had been missing.”
Newly opened on N Main Street is SoNo Wood Fired, where owner and pizzaiolo Besnar Kaba ferments, forms, stretches, and tops each pie, then slides each one using a long peel into his 800° Forza Forni Pavesi.
Kaba is meticulous about it, though. He will only cook three or so doughs at a time, turning them feverishly for 90 seconds to two minutes, to achieve that perfect leopard spotted char that’s indicative of a proper Neapolitan pie.
Alma Cocina brings soul to Norwalk’s Wall Street area.
I recently had the opportunity to visit the newly opened Alma Bistro. Just a couple of weeks old, this Latin-fusion eatery features delicious Nuevo-Latino soul food with an upscale twist and promises to be the darling of the Norwalk restaurant scene.
Alma Bistro Cocina Latina was founded by Alma Miranda, Ulises Jiminez, Don Rene and Norberto Lucero out of a deep love for food that is authentically Latino. We have some real star power here.
On September 19th Bartenders from across the state of Connecticut are invited to show off their creativity, craft and passion by participating in SoNo 1420’s BLAZE BARTENDER COMPETITION.
“We are looking for our next Great BLAZE WHISKY cocktail and would love to see you showcase your skills with our Cinnamon Flavored Whisky that has won Double Gold and Best in Class Finalist 2022 at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.”
BARTENDERS: Register here at BLAZEWHISKY.COM/COMPETITON by 9/12 to receive a complimentary 200 ml flask of Blaze along with other BLAZE Swag.
GUESTS: Swing by any of the locations below and cheer your favorite bartender on, and sample some great new cocktails.
The competition will take place on September 19th from 6-9 pm at the following locations:
Several months ago, I’m certain my reaction to my dear friend, Katy, mentioning RSVP was something like, “Yeah. That means respond.” If we’re being technical, it’s actually “répondez s'il vous plait” or translated from French to English, “respond, if you please.”
Until Katy finished her thought by telling me that RSVP a French restaurant in Litchfield County that she heard about from one of her friends who’s a bartender. “He raves about it,” she said.
As is always the case, time passed. We kind of forgot about RSVP and barely looked into it for weeks, even months. Only occasionally we’d briefly bring it up, referring it as “THAT French place in Cornwall.”
With Spacecat Brewing Company opening its taproom, South Norwalk finally has a brewery…
Again.
Not counting the two short-lived macrobreweries Guvnor’s and Iron which were located in the same space on Washington Street, the city hasn’t had a larger, buzzed about brewery since New England Brewing debuted on Commerce Street 1989 with then head brewer Phil Markowski, and they eventually moved to Marshall Street with another head brewer, Rob Leonard at the helm.
NEBCO left SoNo in 2001 for Woodbridge and Norwalk has been without a watering hole like it ever since.
A little less than 20 years later, James Bloom—no relation to the famous Bloom Family oyster operation—had an idea to open a brewery along with his friend and co-worker Jeff Dunn.
If you live in Connecticut, you may recognize Matthew Kirshner. He is the pastry chef, bread baker, and owner of the popular Sandy Hook newcomer, Uncle Matt’s Bakery and Café, but he has spent time baking in our fair state for over 20 years. Kirshner has graced the kitchens of The Roger Sherman Inn, Wave Hill Breads, Bantam Bread Company, and even the Russian Tea Room in NYC. (Side note: Wave Hill and Bantam were just awarded “Best Bread in CT” by Food & Wine). But in June of 2021, after years of being covered in flour in other people’s kitchens, Matt decided it was time to get dirty in his own. Thus, one of Sandy Hook’s most beloved spots, Uncle Matt’s Bakery, was born, serving breakfast, lunch, as well as a wide array of outrageously good pastries, and artisan bread.
Named after the stunning bulbous flower, Allium Eatery’s name is as impeccably cultivated as the plant. The name sets the tone for what’s inside – the décor, the food’s preparation and presentation, every little detail is deliberate, delicate.
When The Schoolhouse at Cannondale shut its doors for the last time at the onset of the pandemic, Chef Michelle Greenfield had some time to think about her next move.
Greenfield describes her dishes as refined American cuisine with French undertones, and that’s exactly what you can expect to find here. (Classically trained in French cuisine, her recent experiences also include the esteemed Bernard’s restaurant in Ridgefield, and, briefly, Jessup Hall in Westport.)
Oui, oui! You did hear correctly. There is a new French bistro on the block in South Norwalk and it goes by the name of Appetit Bistro.
And while it may be new to Connecticut, it may not be new to some of its residents. For six years and counting, Appetit Bistro has been a staple in the village of Port Chester.
For Montoya—who co-owns the restaurant with executive chef Ismael Carias—opening a second location three towns and a city away from the original was a no-brainer because of the fanfare they’ve received from the state that’s a stone’s throw away.
So, with that, they’re bringing all the duck a l'orange, chicken paillard, steak frites, and buttery, garlicky escargot you can handle, right to the center of SoNo.
But the pair’s French theme didn’t simply happen just because.
“He (Ismael) ran the kitchen at Crew in Greenwich,” Montoya says. “And I fell in love with French food when I started working at L’escale back in 2002. It was my first job ever and I loved it. I was there for five years. I ended up managing BLT Steak in White Plains and we opened our desired concept because we knew we would be the only French bistro in Port Chester.”
Their love letter to French food is evident at Appetit. Dishes are sometimes classic. The steak frites certainly is. Hard seared hangar steak, crusty on the outside, cool red on the inside, and tender as all hell—whatever that means to you. It’s served as it should be with a pile of salty shoestring fries and some frizzled onions that await the residuals of what should be a generous pour of the black peppercorn sauce. It’s always my ideal French meal when paired with a bold merlot or a strong Sazerac depending on the night. Most often for me, it’s the Saz.
Bruno. Joe Bruno. AKA Joe. Bold. Intense. Irreverent. Stubbornly set in his ways, yet with the naive audacity of a young teenager. Joe Bruno cares about one thing only: perfecting his art. A perfectionist in an imperfect world.
Everything else is just show, point of view, shock and awe. “I’m not a chef,” he once said to me, “but I know that I have to recreate a dish exactly as I made for you the first time.” Right? Exacting execution— that’s what we grew to expect and that’s what we were given, night after night after night.
He was 35 when he opened Pasta Nostra. It was never meant to be a restaurant. “I wanted to sell pasta. I made a few dishes to showcase my pasta and the next thing you know it’s a restaurant.”
It’s been a couple of years since I dined at Bistro V on the Ave in Greenwich, and I was thrilled to have been invited for lunch last week.
When Marc and Evelyne Penvenne noticed a for sale sign on the restaurant’s doors they knew that they had to step in and purchase it. The former Versailles was not only a fixture in the Greenwich restaurant scene, but for this couple it had a nostalgic and sentimental meaning. They just couldn’t let the beloved establishment go; the two met there as employees in. The Penvennes had already established themselves as successful restaurateurs. The owners of another perennial favorite, Méli-Mélo, have been feeding guests there, just a couple of blocks away, for over 25 years.
After a slight rebranding, facelift and name shift, Versailles became Bistro V, inspired by their memories of growing up with the classic bistros in France.
La Plage is officially open in Westport. The Inn at Longshore and adjoining restaurant were recently acquired by the Greenwich Hospitality Group, the parent company of the Delamar hotels and restaurants. La Plage is their gift to Westport.
Pronounced plah-je, plage is the French word for beach, and a fitting name when you have a French chef at the helm in the kitchen. Until recently the restaurant was home to Pearl at Longshore which shuttered its doors in January. The interior has undergone a bit of a facelift to embrace its new coastal, casual vibe. Gone is the darker, refined and urban inspired décor which has been replaced with brighter white-washed walls, wicker lampshades and a livelier, beachier ambiance. Queue in the steel brass drums perhaps, but this isn’t your piña colada/Cheeseburger in Paradise type joint. This upscale yet casual eatery is best perhaps described as a beachy chic shack of sorts.
Last month Restaurant L’Ostal’s Chef Jared invited us back to sample the new summer flavors. His menu changes regularly to keep things interesting but remains concise, keeping options to a minimum. There’s enough of a selection to please the palate yet not too much as to overwhelm. This of course is intentional; there’s just one chef in the kitchen and he wants perfection. And perfection is what you will get.
I’d like to say that L’Ostal is for the adventurous, inquisitive, and those familiar with the flavors from the Pyrenees to Provence, or would like to become so. So if Steak Frîtes or French Onion Soup is what you're after, you’ll have to look elsewhere – at least during the warmer months which beckon flavors that are vibrant, green and fresh. What you will find here, at L’Ostal, are some of the best damned Escargots and Oeuf Mayonnaise made with Provencal mustard, pickles, onion and croutons. (I wrote about those from our last visit here.)
It’s past 6 p.m. The Darien Butcher Shop is closed. You cruise by and you see people inside. Some are standing, others are sitting at community tables, and they’re all probably enjoying a glass of vino while they chat, laugh, and catch up.
You can’t walk in for a slab of bacon or a thick, bone-in ribeye, so what’s actually happening?
Four days per week, Peter Crawford transforms his business into The Charles Underground, a French-inspired eatery, and the shop’s after-hours alter ego.
The Charles is where Crawford, a former New England Culinary Institute graduate who has worked with Charlie Palmer, Jean-Georges, Neil Gallagher, and Terrence Brennen, gets to step back into his passion as a classically trained French chef.
Foie gras and dry-aged steak? Sure. Homemade boudin blanc sausage with Robuchon potatoes, and morel mushroom sauce? They have done that, too.
Lending a helping hand in the front of the house is someone you might recognize from his time at Kawa Ni. Anthony Rinaldi acts as a restaurant jack-of-all-trades at The Charles, whether he’s waiting and bussing tables or assisting in the kitchen with cooking and occasionally washing dishes.
South Norwalk is boiling over…with seafood. Seafood boils, that is. And SoNo is set to get that times two.
RHK Seafood Boil and Bar is one of two Cajun-inspired seafood joints to open its doors downtown, the other being SoNo Boil, just a block away.
This isn’t a comparison between the two, but rather a focus on the former in RHK. You can compare and contrast on your own time, eating your weight in shellfish, chorizo, corn, and potatoes for research purposes.
RHK—located in the former Mama’s Boy, then Beach House space—comes to Norwalk from the folks behind Round K Coffee & Roasters in New York City.
But how does a seafood boil idea stem from coffee shop owners? It’s simple. Hospitality.
“Coffee is the most common and traditional way to show hospitality,” says owner Ockhyeon Byeon. “At Round K, we are able to provide locals and visitors with all-in-one hospitality, from greetings to serving foods and drinks. I’m looking forward to introducing lower Fairfield County to Cajun-inspired seafood boils, where the goal is to gather, eat, and have a good time.”
Byeon also likened South Norwalk to where he’s from in South Korea, where seafood is a main food source. He even purposely parks his car on the top level of The Maritime Garage because the ocean view reminds him of where he grew up.
Darien finally gets a serious contender in upscale dining, bringing New York City excellence to the area without the city prices. Rooted in history and steeped in tradition, Restaurant L’Ostal celebrates the cuisines of Southern France and its neighboring communities from Catalonia, the Languedoc, Provence and the Alps of the Piemonte region of Italy with precision and accuracy.
Before I share my own culinary experience, you must meet Chef Jared Sippel and General Manager and Sommelier Joe Cracco.
The Spread you know and love from Main Street in South Norwalk has some new digs and a whole new summer look. Spread owners Andrey Cortes, Chris Hickey, Chris Rasile, Shawn Longyear and Chef Carlos Baez have taken their much heralded menu and rustic industrial vibe, and moved down the street, next door to their sister spot, El Segundo. The new spot resides in the old Harlan Public location within the IronWorks complex, and it comes with one of the most beautiful outdoor dining spaces in Fairfield County. Loyal diners and regulars….don’t worry. The menu will feature all of the usual favorites such as their Brick Chicken and Ricotta Gnocchi but Chef Baez has a few surprises up his chef’s coat.
Bruxelles Brasserierecently opened its doors on Main Street in the space formerly occupied by Barcelona Wine Bar. The setting is hip - a SoHo vibe in SoNo – the flavors are somewhat more traditional. Chef Roland Olah describes his cuisine as simple, though I beg to differ. While there is a familiarity with every dish, nearly everything we tried also had an element of surprise. At Bruxelles Brasseries, you might find that the expected meets the unexpected.
The Hour has just confirmed the rumors regarding Sally’s Apizza opening in South Norwalk’s new SoNo Collection.
The billboard has long been on the opposite side of Interstate 84 from Danbury Fair, steering drivers a few exits beyond the mall to the western-most Connecticut outpost for the legendary Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, a New Haven institution since 1925.
About 20 miles south, another New Haven pizza icon will be firing up the ovens in Fairfield County — and you’ll be able to pop in from the mall concourse while shopping.
Sally’s Apizza chose The SoNo Collection mall for the first entree in what new owner Lineage Hospitality sees as an expansion nationally. The mall will open Friday with a handful of stores, and others to follow as the holiday shopping season gears up.
“It feels like we’re in the Village,” said my gal-pal who joined me for my much anticipated jaunt to Bar August in New Haven. We can’t always explain it, but most of us can conjure an image that falls in line with what “the Village” is? It’s small and cozy, brick and historic, refined but not over the top, with a dash of European flair. And, with the lively scene that New Haven has already, Bar August is just a primo location from the start. Built in people-watching from its side-street, almost corner digs, and a menu that will knock your socks off, Bar August has IT.
After a two-and-a-half-month hiatus, SoNo Seaport Seafood is open once again, serving up the ocean’s bounty with a few exciting changes.
In mid-April, the 35-year-old South Norwalk mainstay announced they would shut down shop while the restaurant, outdoor bar, and patio all underwent renovations. To oversee it all, SoNo Seaport’s owners, the Bloom Family, brought in a legit Fairfield County chef to consult on the project.
That’s where Matt Storch enters the fray. But make no mistake, the chef/owner of Match and Match Burger Lobster wasn’t merely brought in to make decisions on what furniture to buy and what color paint should go on the walls. One of Storch’s focal points at SoNo Seaport was to give an outdated menu a much-needed refresh.
