Chef Jiang Opens in Farmington Bringing Chinatown to Connecticut
Restaurant Chinese Openings Lunch Take Out To-Go Farmington Hartford County
Chef Carlos Perez is a busy man. Not only is he running the kitchen at the popular @ The Corner, a 2021 CRAzies winner for Best Restaurant West Region, he’s somehow found time to open a separate concept right next door.
Unlike @ The Corner, ATC South Street is not New American…it’s all about tacos, Mexican-inspired shared plates, and mostly agave-based craft cocktails.
“We (Perez along with owners Jayne and Red Lamphear) started working on it last March when the hair salon next door went out of business,” Perez says. “The place was a blank canvas. And we knew the opportunity wouldn’t come up again, so we jumped on it. We floated the idea of a pizza concept but there’s already enough of that. In the past at @ The Corner, we did Japanese sushi fusion with Mexican tacos as a pop-up, and they did well. We thought to go straight up Mexican because there’s not a lot of that here.”
We’ll get to the food soon. But what there’s also not a lot of according to Perez and bartender Alfie Gonzalez, is a spot that stays open a bit later than the rest for a younger crowd and for the restaurant industry. Whether it’s at 11:30 a.m. when they open, or 11-something at night, there’s a smooth Oaxaca old fashioned, a sweet (but sneaky) Painkiller, or some other tequila cocktail just for you. And if you want something that’s not listed, we’re betting they can make it. If wine is more your speed, they’ve got some of that, as well as plenty of local craft beer from the likes of Hoax, Two Roads, New Park, and Kent Falls.
While you enjoy the first sips of your cocktail of choice, do it with “small plates” and “sides” that are large enough to be shared. Chips & salsa at ATC South Street actually come with more than just salsa, there’s guac and queso that accompany it. But maybe the best sauce of them all comes with baked yucca fries. The habit forming black garlic mojo aioli is pungent, but kind of sweet, and all kinds of creamy. It’s the perfect dipper for the crispy outside, starchy inside of the yucca fries. If there’s any of that sauce leftover, don’t let the server take it away. You’ll use it on something else.
The rest of ATC South Street main menu is all about tacos. Each comes on Mi Tierra organic corn tortillas made with three ingredients (corn, water, and lime) grown and processed in the Connecticut River Valley.
What’s on (or in when you fold it!) each taco is mostly Mexican. The short rib in the birria taco is braised low and slow for six hours in a tomato base with malbec and beef stock. Perez told us that they continue saving the rich liquid for the next batch and make sure they skim the fat to make their consommé. If you know birria, you know that the consommé doesn’t only come into play when the tacos are getting toasty and melty on the flat top, but you get a little sidecar of it for taco submersion.
The pork taco (pineapple mango chutney, pickled cabbage, apple chayote salsa) is also braised for six hours in an orange juice, citrus, and garlic mojo, while the chicken tacos (pepita mole, avocado, pickled red onion, cotija cheese) are thighs braised in Tajin, a spice predominantly made up of ground chilis, salt, and lime.
Perez, though, who’s classically French trained and has a strong pastry background, mentioned that Mexican is a base for what ATC South Street intends on being, but that you will most certainly see him express his creativity with fusion tacos. On the initial menu, there’s a Japanese influenced tuna taco, served seared and rare, with carrot-seaweed slaw as one of its components.
The team that brought you the uber popular Grammies Donuts + Biscuits is back with another crave-worthy ghost kitchen concept, Little Dumpling House. For those unfamiliar with the notion of a “ghost kitchen,” it simply means there is no dining space. Guests can order online and either get their meals delivered or picked up. In this case, it’s Asian to-go.
Little Dumpling House is the brainchild of owners, Charlie Gilhuly and Molly Healey, but their Asian inspired playlist is all Healey’s handiwork. The menu at Little Dumpling is small but very well executed, and also quite nicely priced. Healey wanted to create healthy clean flavorful Asian cuisine with something for everyone (including the kids), and they have delivered on that promise.
Hinoki, a relaxed tapas-style Asian cuisine in a casual, fine dining atmosphere opens in Greenwich.
Some things are worth waiting for, and Hinoki was one of them. Slated to launch prior to the pandemic, the restaurant’s doors are finally open. Brought to you from the successful team behind Miku Sushi in Greenwich and Kumo Sushi Lounge in Scarsdale, K. Dong and Chef Steven Chen, Hinoki introduces a new concept in Asian cuisine, bringing together a relaxed tapas-style Asian cuisine known as Izakaya along with the exclusive chef’s table experience known as Omakase, in a stunning setting at 363 Greenwich Avenue in Greenwich. The two concepts are separated into three separate sleek and elegant dining areas including a private omakase event space, as well as an outdoor space on Fawcett Place.
You might hear the name The Rockin Chicken (TRC) and think it’s yet another really good chicken-themed joint, like West Hartford’s Chicken Citizen & Donuts, Wethersfield’s El Pollo Guapo, Newington’s Rooster Co. or the Elm City’s Hot Haven Chicken. But you’ll see it’s actually so much more. Since TRC opened in June, 2016 on Franklin Avenue in Hartford, it has been my go-to for Peruvian food, long one of my favorite cuisines.
TRC is owned by Dr. Miguel A. Colán and his wife, Kate. The genial couple doesn’t just own the business but the building as well. For Miguel, a Hartford chiropractor, it was an almost-weekly family tradition growing up in Lima to visit pollerias a la brasa, popular local restaurants specializing in charcoal rotisserie chicken. TRC grew out of his desire to recreate that dining experience for Hartford-area restaurant-goers.
When asked if I wanted to head back to Litchfield to check out Chef Carlos Perez’s new spring menu at The Corner Restaurant and get a sneak peek into his newest Mexican venture (around “the corner”) I replied with a resounding Hell Yeah!
I first met Chef Carlos last July in the courtyard outside of his then new restaurant. It was in the height of the pandemic and I was thrilled to have an excuse to get out of dodge, but I had no idea just what was in store for me. (You can read more about that here.)
Last week, on a cool, rainy May day I hopped into my car for the beautiful hour-long drive along the newly verdant landscape. The drive there was the rainbow leading me to the proverbial pot of gold - The Corner Restaurant.
A posh five-star inn located in “the country” of Connecticut may be the last place you’d expect to stumble upon a former two-time Michelin star chef doing her thing in the kitchen.
Expect it. And expect to run into April Bloomfield.
Yeah, THAT April Bloomfield. The April Bloomfield who won a James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: New York City in 2014. The April Bloomfield who owns the British gastropub The Breslin. And the same April Bloomfield of the now shuttered, but acclaimed West Village haunt, The Spotted Pig.
And since mid-September she’s been spending her time away from the concrete jungle as the chef-in-residence at the Mayflower Inn & Spa where she’s firing up the refined pub fare that she is so lauded for and marrying that style with the bounty from local farms.
If you visit—and you absolutely should—there are a few dining experiences to be aware of.
There’s a seasonal, constantly changing four-course dinner tasting in the brightly lit, plant enshrined Garden Room. The $150 tasting’s polar opposite has been the occasionally offered bonfire experience where Bloomfield comes out to chat over cocktails, savory snacks, and gooey s’mores.
Then there’s the meal I elected to have, a lunch in The Tap Room. If the weather obeys, it’s a great idea to dine out on the back deck that overlooks the Shakespeare Garden, equal parts beautiful and haunting on an overcast autumn day.
Back in April my colleagues from CTBites visited Arethusa Farms to perform a “meet & greet” with 300 cows that comprise the foundation to the Arethusa dairy products. These world renown Holsteins and Jerseys produce some of the best milk, and by extension the ice cream that is sold in the Arethusa Farm Dairy store is world class. More recently, they visited Arethusa Al Tavolo and enjoyed numerous dishes prepared with numerous of the farm’s ingredients, including the cows’ milk. The team was not able to visit the ice cream storefront on either visit as the line was staggering, so it fell heavy on my shoulders (insert smile) that I took one for the team and lazily drove to Arethusa Farm Dairy one Sunday afternoon.
What a full circle moment. I first met our editor Stephanie Webster, affectionately known as Boss Lady, almost two years ago at El Segundo in SONO before I started eating myself silly for ctbites. So, I’d say it’s fitting that I get to bring you the news that the segundo El Segundo is opening in New Haven THIS TUESDAY, August 25th. It makes PERFECT sense that a place that consistently delivers super friggin delish-us Global Street Food, land in a town like New Haven, which is a gorgeous microcosm of what our bruised little world has to offer.
Chef Carlos Perez is a force to be reckoned with. Remember his face. Remember his name. Although this young chef opened up @ At The Corner Restaurant moments before COVID-19 reared it’s ugly head, he wasn’t about to let something as trivial as a pandemic slow him down!
Last week Stephanie and I took a little road trip to Litchfield to see what Chef Perez has been up to. The restaurant sits on the corner of West and South streets (about a 10 minute drive from Arethusa Farms). The handsome brick-walled eatery, originally home to a pharmacy with a soda fountain, perfectly merges the old with the new.
We sat outside in the charming little brick and stone courtyard lined with quaint little shops. I felt as though I had been transported into a small English Village. Two beautiful blackberry margaritas were presented to us as Chef began to prepare his dishes. The margarita, aka the Liquid Lunch Date, made with Silver tequila, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, agave, sweet & sour, and fresh muddled blackberries, was simply divine. This drink is normally made with jalapeño, but it was left out so as not to overpower the flavors of the local oyster, our first sampling from the menu.
CTBites and Terrain were recently invited to Arethusa Dairy Farm for a behind the scenes tour of their dairy farm and cheese making process. But before we get all cheesy, I want to share the wonderful story of a once little known dairy farm.
It all began in 1999 when the Webster family put their 150 year old family farm up for sale. Worried that their view would be obstructed, and to preserve the historic property, neighbors George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgatis stepped in to purchase the farm once named for a small pink orchid that grew in a swamp on the land. Malkemus and Yurgatis promised to restore its original name, and such were the humble beginnings of the Arethusa Dairy Farm.
Earlier, on September 8th, SAVOR Litchfield kicked off it’s third year at the beautiful South Farms in Morris. Hot Damn, did they have the most perfect weather. The sun was shining, and there’s just something about the spark of the sun when it hits the corners of a robust farm. Not to mention, as a native city chic, a little jig brews inside me when driving onto a dirt road and make-shift gravelly parking lot. I think of 4th of July with a boyfriend, county fairs as a kid, and the innocence I can never get back...Wait, sorry. That was weird. SAVOR Litchfield. Right...
Back in 2015 I was invited to a new Chinese restaurant concept in Westchester by veteran restaurateur Jody Pennette. Skeptical as to how this type of cuisine could be different and better, I went. What I experienced was indeed that and more. Chinese food, I soon learned, could be delicious, even healthful, sticking to simple flavors and using organic ingredients while placing these dishes in the middle of a dynamic and upscale setting.
Fast forward and I am invited to Greenwich to check out Pennette’s latest Chinese food adventure. Once again he pushes the envelope with another, though similar, take on this ethnic fare, bringing us LuLu Chinese with its lighter brighter versions.
If you already have a bevy of Chinese menus with sauce stains in your house that no longer excite you, Ren Dumpling & Noodle House in Norwalk may just become your new “go to.” Tucked in the corner of a vast shopping plaza in Wilton, Ren Dumpling & Noodle House seems to be far from overlooked. This cozy and clean joint was bustling with hungry customers dining in and picking up takeaway.
Full disclosure: I lived in Hong Kong for five years, therefore, with five years experience consuming copious amounts of dumplings under my belt, my curiosity was piqued although my expectations may have been skewed. Ren isn’t all about the dumplings, however. In fact, the rest of the menu showcases an impressive amount of options you would see on most Chinese menus, with the addition of the odd Thai or Vietnamese dish or two, which seems to be standard these days.
From the moment in May 1990 when West Street introduced urbane fine dining to well-heeled locals in Connecticut’s hilly rural paradise found—delighting sophisticated New Yorkers with country retreats—the Grill has been a haven for the affluent, famous, successful and talented.
So it remains—but burnished by maturity and a culinary egalitarianism that has evolved naturally over the years. These days, West Street Grill draws from near and far its broadest and most diverse clientele ever.
Guests come for the stylish but comfortable setting, and for a democratized menu in which reasonably-priced upscale comfort food mingles with dishes sporting more haute flourishes—and as high summer ripens into glorious autumn in a town filled with nature preserves, antiques, shopping and other attractions, they come because word is out that the Grill is having one of those moments when everything is aligned.
Back in 2015, a few Yale students, including chef and culinary director Lucas Sin, got together and opened Junzi Kitchen in New Haven. The small counter-serve spot dishes out traditional Northern Chinese cuisine, specializing in bings (flour-pressed wraps) and noodles.
Since its creation, Junzi Kitchen has expanded to New York City, with one currently at Colombia University and a second to open on Bleecker Street this spring.
The New Haven location is bright and welcoming. It has an organic feel with its white brick walls, light wood accents, and lush greenery dangling from the ceiling. On one wall, there is a small display of featured artwork, including ceramics made by the China-based artist Junty.
The Chinese New Year, or Spring Festival as it’s been called since the 20th century, remains the most important social and economic holiday in China. Originally tied to the lunar-solar Chinese calendar, the holiday was a time to honor household and heavenly deities as well as ancestors. It was also a time to bring family together for feasting. Several CT restaurants will be hosting special celebrations. Ring in The Year of the Dog at these local spots. Chinese New Year officially begins on February 16th, and ends on March 2nd.
Like its sister restaurants SHU in West Hartford and Fairfield, Chef Xinyu Huang HAN is a study in authentic Chinese cuisine, this time focusing on Huo Guo—hot pot—a popular eating experience throughout China.
For the uninitiated—as I was before visiting HAN—hot pot is a method of table-side cooking best described as Chinese-style “fondue” in which meats, vegetables, seafood and even eggs are poached in well-flavored broths before eating. Unlike fondue, which simply coats bread or fruit in cheese or chocolate respectively, diners actually cook their food in the hot pot.
When I mentioned that I was visiting SHU restaurant in Fairfield, someone inevitably said, “I didn’t know Sacred Heart University opened a restaurant!”
A common misunderstanding but, in fact, SHU is local slang for Chengdu, the capital city in China’s Szechuan province. Think of it like calling Philadelphia “Philly” or San Francisco “Frisco”
SHU, on the Post Road in downtown Fairfield is the second outpost of the popular restaurant created by Chef Xinyu Huang, three years ago. Huang spent much of his career as a culinary arts professor in Chengdu before emigrating to the United States and working in restaurants in Chinatown and Connecticut.
“My goal was to create a restaurant that was dramatically different from American Chinese food,” said Huang, through a translator. “The cuisine of Szechuan is considered one of the great culinary styles of China, and I wanted to share authentic dishes with both American and Chinese American diners.”
More exciting CT openings! Beloved Chinese restaurant Lao Sze Chuan, whom you may know from their immensely popular Milford location, has finally opened their doors to their second CT location, Gingko. Lao Sze Chuan's new Fairfield restaurant is located at 923 Post Road and is hands down, the best place to go when craving authentic Szechuan cuisine in CT.
Lao is part of a small chain started by Chef Tony Hu, who made a splash in Chicago with four Chinese restaurants devoted to the concept of “gourmet authentic Szechuan.” The Tony Gourmet Group, now has restaurants all over the world. The menu is extensive and includes everything from Hot Oil Dumplings to Diced Rabbit with Peanuts, and Hot and Sour Eel with Cellophane Noodles.
What do we like to eat there? Read our review of Lao Sze Chuan here, and find out. It's all excellent. See you there.