Chef Jiang Opens in Farmington Bringing Chinatown to Connecticut

Stephanie Webster

Growing up Jewish in Manhattan, Sundays nights only meant one thing…family dinner in Chinatown. At the end of the weekend, without exception, we boarded the green line and headed down to Mott Street. Since my arrival in Connecticut 11 years ago, I’ve found one or two Chinese spots that pass muster, but very few that are serving truly authentic Szechuan cuisine, the kind of food Chinese people eat, not "American” Chinese.

Well…there’s a new Chinese spot in Connecticut that should be on everybody’s “must-try” list, and for those of you lucky enough to live in the Farmington area, put Chef Jiang on your dining dance card.

Xiaolongbao

Owners Chef Johnson Jiang and Mei Qin Lin, are old friends from their time living in Queens, when Chef Jiang was cooking at a popular Chinese restaurant in New Jersey. But Jiang grew up in the Hunan Province, where he went to culinary school, and belongs to a long line of distinguished chefs—his grandfather actually cooked for Deng Xiaoping. When he decided it was time to open his own place, Lin, who had been living and working in the Farmington CT area for 10 years as a restaurant supplier, said, come on out…I’ve got just the spot.

Chef Jiang’s food is authentic Chinese cuisine, primarily Szechuan. Mei Qin Lin’s daughter, Sandy, who helped with translation for this interview says,

“We opened this restaurant because Chinese people don’t have a lot of places like this in Connecticut. We are the first Chinese restaurant in CT to truly focus on authentic Chinese dishes, and make it our priority to target the Chinese consumer. Our guests are thrilled to NOT have to go into NYC’s Chinatown to get this type of food.”

What defines traditional Szechuan cuisine? Lin says

“Definitely Spicy! But that doesn’t define Chef Jiang’s offerings. We have dishes that are sweet, spicy, and savory on this menu so everyone can find something that they like here.”

Century Egg & Cold Eggplant

Dishes like the fermented Fire Palace Stinky Tofu, with a deeply pungent aroma and flavor, a casserole of Monopterus Albus Eel, as well as beef tendon, tripe, jellyfish, and the surprisingly delicious Leap Frog in Hunan Sauce can be found on this menu. Szechuan cuisine is often infused with garlic and chili-fueled heat, but it can also be more subtle with completely unique flavor profiles.

Chiba Tofu

Take their fermented Century Egg & Cold Eggplant, which arrives tableside via mortar and pestle with sweet chilies and oil. The Century Egg, a cold dish, is deeply nostalgic, as they are much like the “100 Year Old Eggs” Ie bought on the streets of Chinatown as a child. The sweet and sour short ribs are just straight up umami-delicious, and the Chiba tofu, firm, thin-sliced and smoky, brought to the table still cooking in a griddle atop a brazier, was a huge winner at our table.

One of Jiang’s specialities is their whole fish. Chef Jiang’s broiled tilapia and sea bass are delivered whole-body, steaming hot, smothered in a deeply flavorful spicy sauce. This is a stunning presentation, and I noticed at both my visits, it was a must order for Chinese families.

And of course, I’ve never said no to a good dumpling, and the dumplings here are fantastic. The delicate dough on the xiaolongbao (Chinese soup dumplings) yields to a perfectly seasoned chicken or pork interior, and of course, a copious squirt of flavorful broth. Make sure you eat these with the appropriate spoon so you slurp up every bit.

Salt & White Pepper Crispy Chicken

The classic Szechuan Chongqing style fried chicken is sure to be a crowd pleaser, with marinated and then deep-fried chicken, nestled amongst dried red chili peppers. This dish can be VERY spicy, but If you get the right ratio of chilies to chicken, you’re golden.

We also were fans of the salt & white pepper crispy chicken, finished with a seasoning mix that combines Szechuan peppercorns with salt and ground white pepper.

Sandy Lin says “We want our guests to explore this menu, play it less safe, and get away from the comfort zone of lo mein and General Tsao’s chicken. We did end up adding these types so American Chinese dishes to the menu, as the market demanded them, but we hope guests will go deeper into this menu.” NOTE: For those seeking something more “familiar,” there is an entire area of the menu dedicated to “Staple Food,” including lo mein and fried rice.

I often find that some of the most unique eateries are hidden in the midst of strip malls. This one is flanked by a Nordstrom Rack and T.J. Max, but once you walk inside, you are completely removed from the mall aesthetic. The large space is bright and airy, with high ceilings and accents of blue and orange throughout. Guests will find standard banquettes, but also the signature large round tables, found in Chinese banquet halls, with lazy susans in the middle for easy access to family-style dining. Of course, delivery and takeout is available as well.

Please welcome Chef Jiang and Mei Qin Lin to the community. We are excited to have them in the Nutmeg state.

Chef Jiang, at 1600 South East Road in Farmington
open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday,
11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
chefjiang.com