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It’s past 6 p.m. The Darien Butcher Shop is closed. You cruise by and you see people inside. Some are standing, others are sitting at community tables, and they’re all probably enjoying a glass of vino while they chat, laugh, and catch up.
You can’t walk in for a slab of bacon or a thick, bone-in ribeye, so what’s actually happening?
Four days per week, Peter Crawford transforms his business into The Charles Underground, a French-inspired eatery, and the shop’s after-hours alter ego.
The Charles is where Crawford, a former New England Culinary Institute graduate who has worked with Charlie Palmer, Jean-Georges, Neil Gallagher, and Terrence Brennen, gets to step back into his passion as a classically trained French chef.
Foie gras and dry-aged steak? Sure. Homemade boudin blanc sausage with Robuchon potatoes, and morel mushroom sauce? They have done that, too.
Lending a helping hand in the front of the house is someone you might recognize from his time at Kawa Ni. Anthony Rinaldi acts as a restaurant jack-of-all-trades at The Charles, whether he’s waiting and bussing tables or assisting in the kitchen with cooking and occasionally washing dishes.
I initially held off on sharing my tasting notes for Fortina's epically unique "underground" dinner last week, as it felt like a tease to share an eating adventure that could not be experienced by our readers. Well, all that has changed. The private dinners that began as a way for the Fortina culinary team to stretch their legs, experiment with flavors and dishes, and ultimately serve to inform new menu items, can now be booked by YOU. Here is a little inside scoop on last week's carefully orchestrated 8 person dinner/performance, complete with 10 courses, alcoholic icees, an opera singer, a comedian, escargot served on a VCR, and heck of a lot of fun.
Amy Kundrat and Stephanie Webster
NyHaven, a one-time pop-up new Nordic dinner in New Haven on March 3, blew away a couple dozen diners lucky enough to purchase seats to the 15-course dining experience showcasing some of the most daring and inventive food in Connecticut. Conceived by Chef Simon Marcell Davidsen with fellow Community Table chef Tommy Juliano, they teamed up with John Ginnetti of 116 Crown, who not only generously offered the kitchen and dining space for NyHaven, but also paired each snack and course with an appropriate "cocktail."
An indelible evening marked by a provocative menu, curious cocktails, and a house filled with appreciate gourmands, we attempted to capture the meal in not just words, but an interview with Chef Simon Marcel Davidsen, photos of each course, and 116 Crown's video of the NyHaven experience:
Photos: Signe Birck
TICKETS HAVE GONE ON SALE! Tickets
A 13 course Nordic-inspired menu is the inspiration for Ny Haven, a one-time pop-up dining collaboration between chefs Marcell Davidsen and Tommy Juliano, that will take place at 116 Crown on March 3, 2014. Ny Haven is a play on words. In Danish, Ny means New, and Haven means garden. In Copenhagen, Nyhavn is a main gathering point for people to meet at cafés to eat and drink.
The chefs, best known for their culinary risk-taking and locavore approach at Community Table in Washington, CT, will descend upon the kitchen of 116 Crown in New Haven for a single night for 25 lucky gourmands.
"We are very excited to showcase our style of new New England cuisine, and Nordic influenced cooking, to New Haven," said Davidsen. "With my Danish background and Tommy's New England approach on desserts."
Shortly after docking in Le Harve, Julia Child had the lunch that changed her life. It was sole meuniere, and Julia said "It was the most exciting meal of my life. " Julia and Paul Child lived in Paris and Marseilles from 1948 to 1954, and it was during that time Julia developed the love of French food and the skills that made her famous. Paul fell in love with Julia because she was always herself, and America fell in love with her for the same reason. My Life in France tells the story of Julia Child's life: how she came to be an expert on French cuisine, revolutionize the writing of cookbooks and become the world's first celebrity chef.
Each January, The Westport Library selects a book and an author to be celebrated by the entire community through their popular WestportREADS program.
This year’s selection, the iconic autobiography , My Life in France, by Julia Child, tells the inspiring, and at times humorous story of a young woman’s discovery of France, fine food, and a passion for cooking.
In conjunction with this event, CTbites is holding a curated dinner series, “Dine Around Town With Julia,” offering the opportunity to dine and sample many of her most famous dishes; Boeuf Bourguignon, Coq Au Vin, Poisson Meuniere, and Cassoulet in a private setting with local chefs and in local restaurants in celebration of what would have been Julia Childs 100th year. The dinners, priced at $100 pp, include 3 courses, 2 glasses of wine, tax and tip and are limited availability. A portion of the proceeds benefits programming for the Westport Library.
This year, the Westport Farmers’ Market will turn its annual Fork It Over fundraiser into four dinners on four different nights, featuring some of the area’s most celebrated chefs.
The chef list reads like a Who’s Who of the Fairfield County culinary scene: Matt Storch (Chelsea and Match), Bill Taibe (LeFarm and The Whelk), Michel Nischan (Dressing Room, featuring Johnny Vaast), Tim Lablant (Schoolhouse Restaurant) and Jeff Taibe (Oak & Almond) to name just a few, are planning meals and menus unlike anything you’ve come to expect from them, and featuring ingredients from Norm Bloom, Sport Hill Farm, Fort Hill Farm, Oxhollow Farm, Craft Butchery, and others.
The catch?
WFM will tell you when, but not where (at least, not until the day before). And they’re not telling who, either.
I wasn’t sure what to expect as we entered the butcher, but were warmly greeted with a glass of champagne by Chef (Chris) Plum himself and were shown to our table. Butcher’s Best deli and butcher in Newtown, CT has been transformed twice in 2013 to offer 30 lucky diners one of Plum’s "Dinner Undergound" culinary evenings. I was lucky enough to enjoy night #2.
Chef Plum is a graduate from The Culinary Institute of America with over 18 years of experience. He has worked all over the east coast in five-star hotels and resorts, as well as small neighborhood restaurants. Plum-Luv-Foods was born in 2006 and since then has brought whole farm foods to families, small parties, Broadway actors, executives, Food Network and network TV.
Plum’s happy demeanor shines through his food. His inventive style and clever riffs show both his appreciation for food and simple enjoyment of offering his guests thoughtfully created dishes. As each course is served, Plum tells us about where the food is from, his inspiration and why he chose to marry the components.
Bill Taibe and his team of chefs hosted Souterrain Sunday night, #5 in his series of underground pop-up dinners featuring local ingredients, unexpected locations, and good company. Ironically, Souterrain #5 was originally scheduled during last October's spectacular Nor'easter, and while Halloween did go on, Souterrain had to be cancelled. This year, dinner prevailed, and guests were delighted to find themselves at The Westport Arts Center on the last day of the appropriately themed FOODIES art exhibit. (The location is only divulged 12 hours before the event).
Bill Taibe considers Souterrain his "third restaurant, one without walls, where people come together at communal tables and share a unique culinary experience." The menu for Souterrain does not always follow a strict narrative, but Sunday's meal was truly an ode to duck. Green olives with roasted garlic cloves were cooked in duck fat. There was Duck Ham, Duck Liver & Huckleberries, and a spectacular Duck Confit. Corn bread drizzled with maple syrup paired beautifully with the foie and huckleberries, and a Brandade (Salt Cod Puree) made it into the first course, providing a taste of the sea. John Baricelli, of Sono Baking Company, even created a special olive bread for the evening. VIEW PHOTO GALLERY
CLICK ON ABOVE IMAGE TO LAUNCH PHOTO GALLERY
Dauntingly overcast skies would not deter the guest list of 50 or so people who only 24 hours before the recent Souterrain event were summoned to Sport Hill Farm in Easton CT for a Sunday brunch. Bill Taibe's latest culinary adventure would be unique in both the mid day time slot (leFarm does not serve brunch, and according to Chef Taibe...never will), as well as the presence of a film crew shooting a TV pilot during the meal. But the stars of the show were the menu, the shared experience, and the magnificent backdrop of Patti Popp's sustainable Sport Hill Farm. Check out the photo gallery here.
And here's what we ate: