Since April of 2024, a new restaurant by the name of Rye Bird, located in the longtime former home of Isla in Fairfield, teased a tasty, affordable, neighborhood restaurant concept. Operated by Post Road Hospitality, Rye Bird officially cracked open its doors on October 19 after hosting some patio preview parties prior to its grand opening. Rye Bird’s founder and president Frank Klein hopes it’ll catch on as the “next neighborhood joint” for a bunch of reasons.
What if I told you that there’s a French restaurant in Connecticut that’s exceptional but you likely haven’t heard of it? You won’t find it in Litchfield, Hartford or Fairfield Counties. You will find it in a coastal town in New Haven County. It’s not the Union League Café in New Haven nor is it Bar Bouchée in Madison. The two restaurants have something in common though, and that is Chef Christophe Santos who opened ÔToulouse with his wife Rachelle in Branford last October.
Chef Christophe grew up in a family where food was the essence of life and many of his fondest memories came from family gatherings surrounded by food and love. By the tender age of 16 he had already started cooking at various local restaurants near his hometown of Villemur sur Tarn which is near Toulouse. Chef then headed off to work with celebrated Michelin-starred chefs including Jacques Chibois, Alain Ducasse and Johan Leclerre so that he could perfect his culinary skills.
“I remember we had just unlocked the doors at Walrus + Carpenter, and the first two customers that came in ordered a Bud Lights and a Coors Light. I heard Adam (Patrick) go, ‘Oh, we don’t have that.’ And one of the guys goes, ‘Fuck you! You won’t last’ That was our first reaction.”
At the tail end of December, I woke up to a text message from Greer Fredericks saying she’s coming back to Norwalk to open a southern themed restaurant. That style of cuisine in a sit-down restaurant setting is something I’ve thought this area has had a need for ever since Fredericks closed Peaches Southern Pub & Juke Joint some years ago when she moved to New York City and opened an offshoot of Peaches in Manhattan.
Pumpkin, pumpkin everywhere. Isn’t autumn divine?! And how crazy that we all get so excited about, well, a gourd. Life is funny but it’s that time of year to embrace the crazy and roll with the pumpkins. From fancy-schmancy drinks to sumptuous desserts, handmade raviolis, cakes and sweets, pumpkin has hit everything that stands still. Get on the haywagon, it’s a good one!
Here are 30+ spots to savor pumpkin season in EVERY WAY possible.
The thing about most food trucks in our area is that they’re seasonal. Once the weather gets frosty, they hibernate until the flowers begin to bloom again. But still, it’s better to have found quality eats late in the season than not at all.
I first heard about The Last Taco Stand (and we LOVE the name) in a couple of Norwalk local Facebook groups, then when I posted a quick Instagram story that I was planning to check them and their picturesque tacos out, that’s when my friend, Dominique said it was a good idea. Dom’s one of the folks I trust when it comes to food and drink, so when she told me that Neil, The Last Taco Stand’s owner, is “the best” and to make sure I get the sweet potato taco and “any of his hot sauces,” I knew I had to follow her instructions.
If you’ve been by Brown’s Marina lately to cast your line in the water or to take a sunset stroll, you may have noticed a super-sized food truck parked just to the left and construction on what’s soon to be a retail store.
These upgrades are courtesy of the Bloom Family, a name synonymous with oysters, specifically Copps Island Oysters. According to food consultant Matt Storch—who you should know from his acclaimed Match Restaurant in South Norwalk—the Blooms purchased Brown’s Marina a few years ago from its original owners. “They spruced it up and made it a working oyster and clam dock and are in the process of turning the building into a Copps Island retail store (similar to the one in Norwalk),” he says. “They wanted to activate the beautiful space on the water because there could be more waterside dining here with exceptional, but simple food.”
Before Luke Venner debuted as Elm’s executive chef and partner, the New Canaan restaurant already had a following amongst townies, and there’s more than a good chance you heard Elm get name dropped as one of Fairfield County’s overall best. Five years later, it’s safe to say that Venner isn’t only hitting his stride, but he’s also having fun developing Elm’s dishes from what they once were. Once thought of as being, dare I say, “fancy,” Elm, under Venner, is approachable.
The “seasonal New American” theme still exists, and it’s still a tough table to snag on a peak dine out day. The differences at Elm are now presented in the form of comfort. Sure, there are menu holdovers like tuna (or steak) tartare but if you’ve taken a half decade break from eating here, you won’t recognize it for what it once was.
“It’s about the chicken…” says Chef Chris Scott (Top Chef Season 15), telling his new Connecticut fan base a story at his sold out Pop Up last Thursday night. And he’s about to knock nutmeggers socks off left and right with what he calls Real Soul Food, not the “gentrified” sort we’ve heard about or tasted before. There’s a story attached to the chicken, to the greens and black-eyed peas; there’s a story about the people who originally brought us the food. Real Soul Food is not just the celebrated dishes we’ve come to know and love. Chef wants everyone to understand the heritage behind this cuisine, and really hear about the ones who toiled long and hard for the meals we know as southern soul food. It’s time we learned about the Birdman; and Chef Scott is just the one to deliver the tale. He is passionate, he is immensely knowledgeable, he is experienced, and he just so happens to be one freakin’ amazing Chef.
CTbites has been following Greer Fredericks since she opened Mama’s Boy in Norwalk in 2013. She believed that low country southern cuisine could tantalize Fairfield County diners, from shrimp & grits, chicken and waffles to mile high desserts. Mama’s Boy’s food started the trend where down home, stick to your ribs cooking with bold flavors, deep fried, with cheese and calories were an accepted cuisine. Greer’s newest venture is Peaches’ Juke Joint, a fun-loving, take off your shoes, leave your inhibitions at the door and have some fun with a side of food. She hired Paul Failla to oversee the kitchen; many will remember Failla from his days at neighboring Bar Sugo. Ctbites was recently invited to sample Chef Paul’s newest creations and feel the vibes at Peaches.
World-class BBQ returns to CT with the homecoming of renowned pitmaster Nestor Laracuente, who is overseeing the kitchen at Mason Dixon Smokehouse in Stamford. When I heard that Nestor was teaming up with Mason Dixon, I was ecstatic, the mounds of his perfectly prepared meats that I raved about at Hoodoo Brown were indelible etched in my memory. Would Mason Dixon fill the void that I have felt for months? Bottom line…yes, the food is spectacular.
Laracuente is a soft-spoken lover of meats and Southern rock who spent years perfecting his craft. After leaving CT last year, he returned to Brooklyn where he spent time with his buddy at Beast of Bourbon in Bed-Stuy. His time was spent experimenting with new rubs, new dishes, waiting for the right opportunity for his return to Connecticut. His newest venture, of which he is part-owner, opened a few weeks ago and it is slowly expanding the menu.
Fairfield County offers some of the best food in the country, from trucks to fine dining, and when a restaurant serves food from the soul, it is special, it is uplifting, it makes you overjoyed. Every now and then I visit a new place that fits all these categories. Stephanie Webster, my CTbites partner, and I were looking for a new place for a lunch meeting and we chose Soul Tasty...we wanted to see what the buzz was about. It is located on Main Street in Stamford at the end of a dead end that doubles as the entrance to a pedestrian bridge and parking is incredibly difficult, have patience, it is worth it.
Soul Tasty is the brain-child and dream of Chef Jean Gabriel, Jr. When you walk in, you can feel the love. The walls are brightly painted, a little graffiti on the rear counter pronouncing FEED YOUR SOUL and a colorful menu above the hot trays holding the products of the chef’s homage to the Southern recipes of his grandmother.
Three cheers for watermelon! This sweet, crunchy fruit reaches its peak in the summer—making it perfect for a picnic or BBQ—it’s colorful, refreshing & packed with vitamin C! It can be used in a variety of dishes (or simply sliced on a platter)! The gang at Marcia Selden Catering shares three watermelon recipes that will dazzle and can easily be made ahead. Pro tip: Tap on the shell of a seedless watermelon when shopping-if you hear a hollow sound it’s ripe and ready to eat! Enjoy these delicious recipes for: Watermelon Panzanella Salad, Tomato, Grilled Corn, Avocado & Watermelon Salad & Thai Watermelon Ceviche.
Mama's Boy in Sono is celebrating the Derby in fine style with "Derby Days" April 27-May 3. Greer and her teamhave a full week of great events planned for your dining and partying pleasure. The week kicks off a Low Country Crab Boil on April 28th, followed by "Fillies & Lillies," (girls night on steroids), May 1 and culminates with their big Derby Day event on May 2nd. Read the full details below. Call Mama's Boy to make your reservations (203) 956-7171.
Whenever the owner of a restaurant that serves great food announces a second location, I am excited to see where this second venture will lead. After hearing that Greer Fredericks, the co-owner of Mama’s Boy in SONO, was opening JAX around the corner on North Main, I couldn’t wait for my first visit. JAX opened a few weeks ago and currently serves a wide range of breakfast options, plus a tremendous selection of creative sandwiches at lunch. It is also placing the final touches to its soon to be released take-away dinners, and awaiting the delivery of its ice cream machine.
Located just south of the SONO theatre, the interior is completely redesigned, accented with a red painted art nouveau ceiling and lots of wood throughout…it is definitely the sister restaurant to Mama’s Boy.
"My Signature Dish" is a new CTbites column featuring a rotating cast of chefs, and the dishes that define their cooking style, or simply make them happy to fire up the oven.
We looked forward to learning about what Scott Ostrander had chosen as his signature dish at Mama’s Boy in SoNo, a Connecticut restaurant featuring Southern cooking and cuisine. But he was reluctant to tell us much about it. “We’re dealing with some major issues,” he confided. “Trying to dodge disaster.”
Issues. Disasters. Great. The stuff of a good story. We urged him on. But Chef Ostrander demurred. “I just can’t get into it right now,” he apologized.
The next time we met, the chef was all smiles. Problems solved. Scott shared the back story, one that reveals how a gifted chef deals with and solves both business and culinary challenges.
His new signature dish at Mama’s Boy is Crisp Pork Shank, an osso bucca-like braised pork shank with a dramatic Southern twist. Traditionally, slowly simmered meat is tender, juicy, and deeply flavored. But its soft texture is monochromatic. For his shank, Scott wanted contrapuntal textures. Soft. And Crunchy.
“It’s no sin to get sauce on your chin.” - Bishop Tutu
Last weekend I got a chance to make the short trek to Wilson’s Barbecue (1851 Post Rd Fairfield, CT ), to enjoy some incredible Pit BBQ. Wilson’s is owned by Ed Wilson, who has competed in and judged numerous BBQ competitions throughout his life. Ed is an extremely kind man, who goes out of his way to talk to everyone who enters his restaurant. He even happily agreed to sit down and talk to me after my fantastic meal, about what makes his food so good.
He couldn’t be nicer.
When we arrived at Wilson’s we were greeted by Mr. Wilson who said hello and wished us an excellent meal. As I entered the restaurant I noticed the comfy, road-house-esque atmosphere that was filled with memorabilia of his experiences as a chef and owner. When it was time to order, we got a lot!
CTbites re-visited NOLA Oyster Bar a few months after its opening to enjoy some of the newest additions to the menu. Chef Dan Kardos is clearly in charge of the kitchen and his culinary talent is evident as he creates some of the most delicious cuisine in Fairfield County.
The Seafood Tower, a dedication to cold shellfish (plus tuna), was the first course served to our table. The generous portions included Cherrystone clams, snow crab legs, Copps Island oysters, shrimp, and charred Hamachi crudo. A house made mignonette sauce accompanied the oysters. All of the items on the Tower were delightful. The crudo was marinated in white and dark balsamic vinegar plus a combination of lime and tangerine juices; it was tantalizing. The crab legs and shrimp were sweet with just a touch of seasoning to emphasize the natural flavors. The Copps Island oysters were a little bitter with very little salinity, but the addition of the mignonette sauce drastically changed the flavor profile from bitter to delicious.
