Chefs that have a bustling restaurant never take a full month off. For Luke Venner, “vacation” wasn’t pina coladas in the Caribbean, nor was it one of his fishing or hunting excursions. Instead, he was mostly in New Canaan, at Elm, remixing popular dishes, creating new ones, and reimagining and renovating the entire dining room. Don’t freak out. Your beloved Double-Double was unharmed in the process. But the dining room? Transformed. And it’s something that Venner—who’s in his 10th season as Elm’s executive chef and co-owner—has been meaning to tackle for quite a while. Talk to him about it and you can tell he’s feeling refreshed about all of it.
Twizzlers, Peanut M&Ms, butter drenched popcorn, a bucket sized Coke. Come on! We’re all guilty of indulgences when we go to see the latest blockbuster movie. I’m a Reese’s guy (or addict rather) myself. But moviegoers in and around New Canaan have an upgrade when it comes to theater fare. And no, we’re not talking about a certain chain that likely just heats up something from a package. The Playhouse in New Canaan, along with movie houses in South Orange, New Jersey and Cañon City, Colorado, with another in Bradley Beach, NJ on the way, are part of a renovation project by movie producer Luke Parker Bowles, the CEO of Cinema Lab Theaters.
Now almost three years old, Michelle Greenfield’s Allium Eatery started out, as she puts it, “small.” Her restaurant, inside, is also small. Put a dozen people in there and it feels full. When the weather cooperates, Allium can take some walk ins for patio dining, otherwise you have a choice between either the 5:30 seating or the 7:30. n this case of “small,” small is good, and Greenfield’s restaurant is one of the hottest tickets in town.
No website, just social media, and they’re more active on Instagram, FYI. And chances are, when a table does wiggle free from a prior reservation on busier nights, it’s a given that someone will see their Instagram story announcement and snatch it right up.
If you’ve dined around the Connecticut restaurant scene with regularity, it’s pretty common to see familiar chef faces. Edgar Marcial is one of those.
Just under two years ago, Marcial opened exactly the type of spot he was looking for in Downtown New Haven.
And what he’s doing at Tacos Los Gordos is all love.
And judging from the waves of customers that wander in here and smash tacos and wash them down with a Mexican Coke out of his vintage Coca-Cola cooler, they’re loving it, too.
What’s represented, taco wise, is from all parts of Mexico: carnitas from Michoacán, beef birria from Tijuana, of course crispy cod taco that reps Baja and SoCal, and al pastor, cooked on a spit, from Mexico City that’ll immediately catch your eye upon entry.
It’s been a while since a new restaurant opened in New Canaan, so I was very excited when I heard that the much-anticipated Blackbird opened a few doors down from its sister restaurant Solé. After the first visit, the food was so spectacular, that I was quick to visit a second time a week late. Spoiler alert - It is already serving some of the best and most creative dishes in Fairfield County.
Blackbird is the newly opened addition of the Z Hospitality Group, which operates numerous, well-established restaurants in the area including Solé, Mediterraneo, Terra and East End. The narrow and long space is akin to the Solé layout, with tables in the front and a long bar and tables once you reach the mid-point. Unlike Solé, the kitchen is not open to full view, but is located behind doors in the rear. The front area serves guests on traditional tables while high-tops are stationed along the left wall in the rear half, which it shares with the long bar on the right. I was initially concerned about the potential for difficulty in hearing (a la Solé) but I was pleasantly surprised that the ambient noise in the front was friendly and the high-tops across from the bar were even better.
While driving (read, stuck in traffic) along I-95 in New Haven, right by the IKEA, how many of you have noticed the rectangular cubed shaped building with the small windows and the void almost in the middle? You’ve clearly seen it countless times. But if you’re like me, you probably always wondered “what the heck is it?”
Designed by modernist architect, Marcel Breuer, the building in question which began construction in 1968 and was completed in 1970, was the home of the Armstrong Rubber Company first, then Pirelli Tire in the late 80s into the late 90s. After Pirelli vacated, the space sat vacant for a long time. IKEA purchased it in 2003—and removed a piece of it— and owned it until 2019 when it was purchased by the development firm, Becker + Becker, who would develop it into a net zero energy hotel, that right now, is operated by Hilton Hotels’ Tapestry brand. But within this hotel, there is a restaurant. And that restaurant has to operate like its hotel does, completely sustainable. And at this restaurant, that’s named BLDG, they needed a chef at the helm who believes in all of this through and through.
Between courses at one of his collaboration special events, Prasad Chirnomula spoke to his full dining room about creating a bond with his fellow Connecticut chefs.
“We’ve been doing this for almost a year now, bringing chefs together,” he says. “The whole point of doing this, is we, as chefs, work our asses off. We’re always back in the kitchen on Saturday nights, Sunday nights, holidays, and everything else. I’ve done my share of work, so I said to myself that I’m gonna enjoy what I did for so many years of my life. I want to create a legacy and a bond with people I recognize and know of. Even if I don’t know someone, I’ll pick up the phone, call them, and say, ‘Hey, buddy! How are you doing? Do you wanna cook together?’ This is the hardest industry to work in and food brings people together.”
If you listen to Marc Taxiera talk about his style at his newly opened Mamaroneck restaurant, Augustine’s Salumeria, he speaks about it passionately.
“It’s born in Italian cooking, but I’m using ingredients from the market, things that turn us on,” he says. “My food was always about taking ingredients that we can get and showcasing them in the best way. Most Italian tends to be heavy on the sauce, fried calamari, chicken parm, but we’re taking the seasons and playing with it, doing it a little differently.”
I’ll be the first to admit that since Rosina’s opened, it has become my toxic trait. And I mean that in the best way possible. I’ve eaten there for dinner, I’ve attended several happy hours and one industry night, and I’ve celebrated a birthday there.
Full transparency, Jared Falco, Rosina’s co-owner and executive chef, is a good friend of mine. I’d like to say I go so often to visit him, and that is partially true, but Jared, I’m sorry, it’s for the pasta. Still love you, bro!
Bottega Italian Kitchen + Bar, Craft Kitchen + Bar, and now, with the very quiet opening of Quattro Osteria in Newtown, we officially have a trio.
The “we” is the partnership between Michael Hayek (Square One Bar & Grill in Danbury) and Jasson Arias, who was the brains behind the popular food truck, Rice & Beans.
On several occasions, chef Tim LaBant has suggested we check out Dante’s Pizza in New Canaan.
“Have you been to Dante’s?”
“Have you been to Dante’s yet?”
“You gotta try Dante’s. I’d be curious to see what you think.”
Before he mentioned it to me a year ago, I hadn’t even heard of Dante’s. I live pretty close to New Canaan, and what’s worse is I frequently visit my favorites there, namely the South Ends, Elm, Locali, and I’ve eaten an obscene amount of Joe’s Pizza.
As I sit in the Tall Pine Bar in New Canaan’s Adirondack Store waiting for my meeting with Karla Sorrentino, sipping on a cold brew that’s making my heart race even more after a workout an hour prior. I welcome the jitters and the calorie burn that coincides with coffee, because later I’m diving into a Hot Capi pizza from Joe’s, and after it, whatever creamy treat I knew Karla was about to bring for me to sample.
In she walks and immediately smiles and extends her hand for a shake. “Forget that,” I say, “We’ve been chatting on social media for YEARS!” We hug. It’s a miracle we’ve never met. Between our mutual friends and her husband, Nick, it’s seemingly impossible.
She hands me a mysterious looking Ziplock with another bag inside it containing dry ice and a tiny cup of halva peanut crunch ice cream. I admittedly wanted to eat the tahina ice cream swirled with halva, salted peanuts, and bittersweet chocolate on the spot. I figured it’d be great after pizza later on, and also odd to shove it down in a coffee shop where I didn’t buy it.
If you’ve walked through the doors at The Norwalk Art Space, chances are you’ve had a bite or a caffeinated pick-me-up at the Art Space Cafe.
Under the direction of chef/restaurateur Bill Taibe, the food at the cafe is nothing short of spectacular. The sandwiches aren’t only stacked and satisfying, they’re photogenic, too. And the fresh baked biscuits and other random weekly specials are made with love and care. To boot, there’s plenty more in terms of eggy options, salads, soups, and stunning coffee creations.
But executing all of the goodness you’ve had (or will have) at The Art Space Cafe is head chef Caitlin McGowan. For McGowan, food holds a special place in her heart as it’s deeply rooted in old school traditions and closely related to the bond she has with her family.
I don’t want to give away too much, as I’d prefer you read the answers to a few of the subjects we talked about, including her upbringing, culture, her culinary journey up to this point, and homemade jam.
As Elm Restaurant successfully slides into their 10th year in New Canaan, we sat down with Chef Luke Venner to discuss this impressive milestone in a challenging industry. Elm is known for its friendly, local atmosphere, globally-inspired menu, and focus on fresh ingredients. Venner always has something new up his sleeve to keep diners engaged. Aside from seasonal menu updates, he introduced afternoon tea service in 2021, and navigated the pandemic with innovative to-go boxes. Side note: If you haven’t had his “Animal Style Burger,” you’re really missing out. Here are a few things you may not know about one of CT’s top chefs.
What made you want to be a chef?
It was somewhat accidental. I started working in a Steakhouse kitchen my freshman year in high school to earn extra cash for gas, the cool shoes, music, etc.. I began washing dishes and before long decided to quit sports to work full time after class. I quickly became one of the top cooks and by my senior year in high school I graduated as the sous chef at only 18 years old.
Prior to that, I had always thought I wanted to do something in the biology field and drew most of my inspiration from the outdoors. Back then, food still didn't have much presence on television and I had never picked up a cookbook, but I was drawn to the restaurant energy and I was sure much better ones than I had experienced existed. Ultimately, competitive drive got the best of me and I decided I would push myself as far as I could go in the business I was already in. I applied to a small European style apprenticeship program in Colorado 600 miles from my hometown and, much to my surprise, was accepted. I immediately began training for the next four years under an old world French chef and my life would change forever.
I think it’s safe to say that we’ve all been here at some point: you go out to eat, thoroughly enjoy everything that passes your lips, and maybe (probably) eat a little too much because it’s so dang tasty and before you know it, you’re reaching for the Tums and the fat-pants, not necessarily in that order.
Well, I went out to eat the other night, thoroughly enjoyed everything that passed my lips, and did in fact, eat a bit too much but you know what? I left this establishment feeling….good, great, even healthy. “How can this be?” you ask. Three little words: Green and Tonic.
When was the last time you visited Grace Farms? The stunning 80-acre space in New Canaan, Connecticut that supports initiatives in the areas of nature, arts, justice, community, and faith, and encourages participation locally and globally is a treasure to visit. Pritzker Prize-winning River building, is the focal point, having become an integral part of the landscape. Designed to resemble a rambling river, five transparent glass-enclosed buildings that each live beneath one flowing roof. Here you will find The Sanctuary, a 700-seat amphitheater; the library, a staffed library with resources related Grace Farms Foundation's initiatives; the Commons, a community gathering space with 18-foot-long tables; the Pavilion; a welcome reception and conversation space with tea service; and the Court, an incredible underground recreational space used by local children and schools. Wander around the 80 acres of open meadows, woods, wetlands, and ponds and soak up all the breathtaking scenery.
In 2021 Grace Farms Foods was launched by Grace Farm’s Founder Sharon Prince along with Adam Thatcher to share with the world and invite everyone to be part of their mission by offering our signature cookies, coffee, and tea.
Each year, the CT Restaurant Association recognizes the exceptional ability and talent of Connecticut’s restaurant community in the prestigious CRAzies awards. We are excited to showcase the nominees for BEST CHEF OF THE YEAR in our new series. All the candidates worked incredibly hard to receive this nomination, and while many of you may know some of them, you probably don’t know all of them. We sat down with each of these talented chefs to learn a little bit more about what makes them do what they do. This week, we feature Michone Danae Arrington of The Art of Yum in Waterbury & Southington, CT.
Each year, the CT Restaurant Association recognizes the exceptional ability and talent of Connecticut’s restaurant community in the prestigious CRAzies awards. Restaurant owners, operators, chefs, and vendors come together to celebrate the success of the industry at Foxwoods Resort Casino on Monday, December 6. While a panel of more than 25 food writers, critics, bloggers, and social media influencers created a list of nominees, YOU VOTE for the winners.
We are excited to showcase the nominees for BEST CHEF OF THE YEAR in our new series. All the candidates worked incredibly hard to receive this nomination, and while many of you may know some of them, you probably don’t know all of them. We sat down with each of these talented chefs to learn a little bit more about what makes them do what they do. We begin with Chef Ashley Flagg of Millwrights, in Simsbury CT.
If we lived in 1840’s England, most of us in middle class and below wouldn’t be allowed to have afternoon tea. Now that we’re past the 19th Century—and living in America in the joyous years of 2020 and 2021—tea, tiny sandwiches, and snackable sweets before dinner is for all to enjoy, regardless of status.
Afternoon tea in present day Connecticut can be found, though places that offer it are few and far between, but there’s a new one going down on Fridays by Luke Venner at Elm in New Canaan.
Venner told us that the idea for tea and bites came about when he was reminiscing with colleagues about their days in Manhattan and wanting to offer a New York City experience for locals. “It’s good for a neighborhood place like Elm because people aren’t going into the city as much as they used to,” he says. “But city people are coming here, so why not try to recreate that?”
What Elm is doing is all kinda classic of a tea service but with Elm’s twist on it.
Expect to see mini cucumber sandwiches…but with caviar. A ham and cheese sammy follows the fancy trend as it’s topped with a sliver of black truffle. And there’s a foie gras macaron. You get the idea.
Venner mentioned that he drew inspiration from Gabriel Kreuther’s tea program at the Baccarat Hotel.
“He was the former chef at The Modern and that (afternoon tea at the Baccarat) was one of the best I’ve had,” he says. “Offering this has become such a fun, creative outlet for me.”
