Once again, Strega owner Danilo Mongillo is celebrating a prestigious honor for his authentic Italian fare – but this one means more, he says.
Gambero Rosso, an Italian authority on food, wine and travel, awarded Mongillo’s New Haven restaurant a “due forchette,” or ‘two forks” designation in a recent ceremony in New York City. Restaurants are honored with a rating of one to three forks, similar to Michelin star ratings.
Trattoria A’Vucchella is the epitome of a hidden gem. Open for a tick over a decade, directly across the street from The Bijou Theater in Downtown Bridgeport, it might be one of the city’s best kept secrets if you’re not a local, and if you didn’t somehow discover it naturally.
“It’s a tough location, but we have a loyal following,” says co-owner Pasquale De Martino. “They all found us organically, and once they find us, they come back and from all over. I love the community here.”
Martino—who opened the restaurant back in 2014 with Jennifer Galletti and Thomas Bepko—was formerly the owner of a limoncello factory for 10 years in his birthplace of Sorrento, Italy before selling it and eventually getting into the villa renting business in Italy with Galletti.
Udine, Trieste, Pordenone, Rome, Barcelona, Santiago, Athens, and…Norwalk, Connecticut? So, you usually don’t see six European cities and one South American city mentioned in the same breath as Norwalk, but when it comes to gelato and master gelato maker, Carmelo Chiaramida, this is perhaps the one time it applies. What Chiaramida is doing in Norwalk, opening his first OGGI Gelato shop in America, is simply every local ice cream lover’s good fortune.
Call it a coincidence through connection, actually. And it’s best spelled out by Maurizio Ricci, who along with his brother, Graziano, are the founders of Romanacci and Norwalk’s Osteria Romana.
When trying to come up with the “what is it?” as it pertains to his new pizzeria in Greenwich’s Glenville section, Joe Criscuolo uttered the phrase, “it’s the evolution of the neighborhood slice shop, without the slices.” That’s exactly what Luca’s Pizzeria—named after Joe’s father, who founded the legendary Pizza Post in Cos Cob back in 1972—is all about. You won’t find doughy pizza that sits in your stomach like a brick. No wilted, colorless salads either. The cheesesteak, served on pizza bread? It’s not as dry as cardboard.
And to think, Criscuolo, who you don’t only know from his family’s Pizza Post, but Meatball & Co. in Darien, almost didn’t open anything. The reality is, he almost left the state, and country, altogether.
Roll into the former Davinci’s Pizza (or Cosmos if we take it back to 1985) at 60 Connecticut Avenue, and it’s a way different vibe than it used to be.
Quirky artificial intelligence cartoons, featuring pizza, are pasted in the entryway. Sawed off cookbook bindings are the art on the walls. A black and white photo of Marco Pierre White stares at you if you glance to your right.
Like Batman running to help the Gotham City Police Department when he sees the Bat-Signal in the night sky, CTbites was summoned in a similar fashion. Only we spotted our Bat-Signal across the street from Aitoro Appliance in Norwalk, in the form of a neon sign that read: “Massimo.” I hadn’t been that far up Westport Avenue in a while, so I turned to Steph and said, “Hey, hey. What’s this place? Heard of it?”
“Ohhh! Yeah! Fritz Knipschildt told me about it! He loves it!” was her reply.
Mercato Italian Kitchen is a new favorite spot for inspired beverages, and they are newly open in the Farmington Valley serving drinks that are more fire than their pizza ovens (which both have names. I never knew pizza ovens had names.)
After doing a live creative session on Instagram with Bianca Giuliano, their bar manager and beverage curator, I was instantly intrigued by her ingredients and drinks that were based on classic cocktails, but with crowd pleasing twists and riffs.
The bar staff was just as enthusiastic and passionate about the menu as Bianca, so rest assured: you’ll get the full Mercato experience no matter which one you choose.
The Canton Location just opened its doors for dinner this week, and is a “must try” for anyone in the valley that loves amazing drinks (her 0%ABV menu ROCKS, by the way!) perfectly rustic wood fired pies, and great ambience. (SIDE NOTE: I had a great burger with burrata)
Long-time New Haven restaurateurs Tim Cabral and Avi Szapiro (Ordinary) have worked with contracting partners Anthony and Gerard Bianco to breathe new life into the former Tony & Lucille's at 150 Wooster Street. Gioia ("Joy" in Italian) should spark plenty, with a wood-fired grill and rotisserie, Italian grocery, full bar, gelato stop, and a rooftop deck.
Thin crust. Roman style. Pan pizza. Bar pies. Artisan. Grilled. Foldable New York slices.
Norwalk has all of that. And you can insert your own quip about there being “too much Italian” if you want.
What Norwalk has been missing in its dining history is a true wood-fired Neapolitan pizzeria.
Check that. “Had been missing.”
Newly opened on N Main Street is SoNo Wood Fired, where owner and pizzaiolo Besnar Kaba ferments, forms, stretches, and tops each pie, then slides each one using a long peel into his 800° Forza Forni Pavesi.
Kaba is meticulous about it, though. He will only cook three or so doughs at a time, turning them feverishly for 90 seconds to two minutes, to achieve that perfect leopard spotted char that’s indicative of a proper Neapolitan pie.
If you listen to Marc Taxiera talk about his style at his newly opened Mamaroneck restaurant, Augustine’s Salumeria, he speaks about it passionately.
“It’s born in Italian cooking, but I’m using ingredients from the market, things that turn us on,” he says. “My food was always about taking ingredients that we can get and showcasing them in the best way. Most Italian tends to be heavy on the sauce, fried calamari, chicken parm, but we’re taking the seasons and playing with it, doing it a little differently.”
Bottega Italian Kitchen + Bar, Craft Kitchen + Bar, and now, with the very quiet opening of Quattro Osteria in Newtown, we officially have a trio.
The “we” is the partnership between Michael Hayek (Square One Bar & Grill in Danbury) and Jasson Arias, who was the brains behind the popular food truck, Rice & Beans.
This just in from Gretchen Webster ofWestport Journal, on a new spot for fresh pasta and authentic Italian goods in Westport.
Two years after his quest began to bring authentic Italian pasta and sauces to Westport, Frederico Perandin, a native of Venice, Italy, has opened Il Pastaficio, a downtown shop and restaurant.
The business, at 135 Post Road East, features a display case filled with samples of more than 15 kinds of freshly made pasta.
If linguini and rigatoni sound familiar, some of the other fresh pastas at Il Pastaficio — bucatini, cavatelli, ravioli ricotta e spinaci or raviola Emilla — may not. Another case is filled with freshly made sauces, including pesto Genovese, puttanesca and cacio pepe sauce.
Chef Danilo Mongillo continues to bring his vision of Italy to Milford with the newly opened Strega Market. On the same block as the Strega restaurant he opened after the pandemic had closed his original location in Branford, the Market showcases the same sauces and ingredients used just two doors down, as well as sought-after tastes of home for Italian expats, like Mongillo himself.
The market layout is simple, but its contents are rich with multitudes of flavors. First, though, Mongillo takes me to the side, past rows of gleaming jars, and selects a small package.
“Cards,” he says, “From Naples. You go into a little market like this in Italy, they always have the cards for people.” It’s indicative of the outlook he has, wanting the market to feel instantly familiar to anyone who grew up in Italy, and to bring that experience, that food, to Connecticut.
“Everything we have here is straight from Italy — besides the Poland Springs” quips Stefano Cutugno, manager and part-owner of Norwalk’s new Pausa Caffè. On March 6th, Cutugno’s family opened the doors to Main street’s youngest coffee shop, applying the expertise gained from years of operating restaurants in Sicily and Naples to craft an authentic Italian dining experience.
Pausa’s menu offers a robust selection of coffee and pastries, reading like a list of Italy’s most popular drinks and sweets. From marocchinos to double espressos and crostatas to cannolis, there’s an option for every customer. For their coffee beans, Pausa uses Borbone, a Naples-based company that Stefano says is “quickly [becoming] the most famous brand in Italy.” “We started with a different company, but after two weeks, we changed it, and [our customers] knew right away that it was better,” explains Stefano, illustrating Pausa’s commitment to quality.
Recently, news broke that Taco Daddy owners John and Morgan Nealon would completely switch their next door concept in The Lila Rose to Cugine’s Italian, focusing on a sit-down, upscale Italian experience.
If The Lila Rose—which closed for good on May 8—was Taco Daddy’s only slight alter ego, Cugine’s is its polar opposite. Think NYC speakeasy vibes—when you walk in, there’s a mini flower shop “front”—complete with dim lighting, antique chandeliers, and a nice touch in a tribute wall of notable area chefs the Nealon’s are friends with and inspired by before you hit the restroom.
For John, it’s not only the Sinatra you’ll likely hear through the speakers that’s meant to bring you a bit back in time, but also the overall experience, including the food and Cugine’s focus on classic cocktails, even if there are a few small liberties taken. “Fortina (where John was one of the founders) ushered the way for casual Italian in this area, and Roberta’s really sort of originated it way back when, and that’s great,” John says. “I wanna bring back the sit down upscale Italian restaurant.”
Stamford restaurateurs John and Morgan Nealon today announced the opening of Cugine’s Italian in Stamford’s Harbor Point community at 121 Towne Street. The restaurant, expected to open later this Spring, will feature alluring, well-plated Italian cuisine, coupled with refined cocktails and a robust wine list.
“Our goal with Cugine’s is to offer not only Harbor Point, but Fairfield County as a whole, an entirely new Italian dining experience,” said John Nealon. “This sophisticated restaurant will invite our guests to take a step back in time and dine in the era of Frank Sinatra, with dark interiors and furniture, beautiful soft mood lighting, a period playlist and classic Italian cuisine.”
Paul Failla uses the word “afterthought” when describing the brunch that was previously offered at all four Fortina locations in Stamford, Armonk, Rye Brook, and Yonkers.
“The old menu was like five items,” he says. “People didn’t come here for brunch. They’d always get pizza. Brunch was always an afterthought here.”
One of Failla’s first orders of business as the restaurant’s sole culinary director was to all but scrap the former “barely a brunch” format and make Fortina a place you’d seek out for daytime drinks, yolky goodness, breakfast sandwiches, sweets, and more.
Failla joked that the only thing that would stay on the brunch menu are the bottomless mimosas, and while that’s true, the only other holdover will be a tweaked version of eggs in purgatory, but with a spicier marinara sauce.
Greenwich Avenue is booming with new restaurant openings.
Last year, “The Ave” saw an influx of Asian cuisine with the additions of Kissaki, Moon, and Hinoki. In 2022, Ruby & Bella’s just quietly opened up and a second iteration of Brian Lewis’ The Cottage should arrive shortly.
The latest, though, is Bianca, an Italian restaurant that’s not planning on serving pizza, chicken parm, or spaghetti and meatballs any time soon.
Bianca comes to Greenwich by longtime friends and former Naples, Italy countrymen, Rosario Procino and Raffaele Ronca, both of whom have extremely popular restaurants in Manhattan. Procino is a partner at Ribalta, the lauded Neapolitan pizza joint that’s always a good time, while Ronca owns two successful classic Italian restaurants, Rafele, in the West Village and in Rye.
Sometimes where you live is just where you sleep. Maybe the area has a bit of feel, or maybe some real estate conglomerate slapped it together like processed-cheese-food, named it The Crossing At The Shops At The Superfund Site, and well, at least the commute is short and everyone can understand the urge to show I-95 your personal taillights.
In Connecticut’s old – let's be kind and call them historic – cities, there are still to be found that most nostalgic living situation: The Actual Neighborhood. New Haven’s East Rock is one of the latter, and lately, what’s old is new again.
East Rock Market opened this November in a space which rubs shoulders with East Rock Brewing Company, and close enough to the in-building gym to borrow a neighborly cup of protein powder. By Thanksgiving of 2021, the Market’s large, bright space housed five concepts: RAW Bowls & Juice, Panciale pasta and pizza, Nicoll Street Gelato, Rick’s Bar, and Rockfish sushi. Developer Rishi Narang has named the former WWI-era Marlin Arms factory East Rock Center, and market, brewery, and gym are all contained within the massive footprint in a sort of indulgence/repentance love triangle.
