Why Modern Apizza in New Haven is #1 on the New CT Pizza Trail

Jeff "jfood" Schlesinger

Over the past months, I’ve been on a quest to find the best pizza in the Valley, exploring Waterbury and its neighboring towns. Now, it feels like the right time to turn my attention to what many consider the epicenter of Connecticut pizza: New Haven, where you're met with no shortage of options to explore.

When a couple of buddies and I were scheduling a pizza lunch, we decided to sidestep the potential chaos of Wooster Street and headed over a few blocks to Modern Apizza on State Street. Once you manage to find parking, be prepared to wait, and count yourself lucky if you have that lucky timing of an immediate opening. We arrived just after noon and, to our good fortune, a booth was open in the back room. We took it as a sign of good things to come. As soon as our server arrived, we ordered a couple of bottles of Foxon Park, Kola and Root Beer, then got down to topping talk. We kept it semi-classic: one pie fully loaded with pepperoni and the other topped with sausage and onion.

When the pies arrived, they looked spot-on, each boasting that signature New Haven-style char along the edges. Interestingly, the char was concentrated on just one side of each pie, suggesting the kitchen skipped the usual spin during baking. Both pizzas had a generous layer of cheese, perfectly melted. The pepperoni pie was especially impressive, absolutely loaded with slices that stretched right to the crust, a definite plus. The sausage and onion pie, however, was less generous, with a noticeable gap near the edges that felt like a missed opportunity for more flavor and balance.

 

I checked the underside of both pies, and the kitchen had done an excellent job; each crust was an even light tan with just a few charred spots, exactly what you'd hope for. With preparation and appearance checked off, it was time to dig in.

 A quick pull of crust and it was delicious, not too dense, not too airy and just a hint of flavor. Onto the pepperoni, and these half-dollar sized circles were fantastic, just a touch of crispiness on the edges and a nice level of spiciness. The sausage, unfortunately, was not in the same category. I found the chunks to be a touch dense, and while it had nice fennel backnotes, it was not a standout in my opinion.

Now that the pizzas had cooled slightly, I pulled a sausage and onion slice and was happy to see long, stretchy strands of cheese still clinging to the base, a very good sign. The crust, sauce, and cheese were all excellent, but the sausage was in the back seat, too bland, and the onions were a more dominant contributor. Overall, I can only give this side a 7.5; the toppings were not to my liking.

The pepperoni, on the other hand, was a clear standout. Everything was in perfect balance, the crust was crispy, yet subtle, the sauce slightly sweet, the cheese rich and creamy, and the pepperoni brought just the right kick of spice and crunch. It hit every note: sweet, spicy, salty, creamy, and crispy. This side easily earned a perfect 10.

 Our server was also great; she could not have been more friendly and efficient.

Overall, I completely agree that Modern is in the discussion as one of the best apizzas in New Haven for major components (crust, sauce, cheese, prep) and with that delicious pepperoni, the vibe and the friendly atmosphere, I would highly recommend.

 

Modern Apizza

874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511

(203) 776-5306

modernapizza.com