CT Pizza Trail’s Top 100: Pizzeria Marzano Brings Authentic Neapolitan Pizza to Torrington

Jeff "jfood" Schlesinger

My visits to the Connecticut Pizza Trail’s Top 100 continue with another stop in Torrington. I never would have guessed that this tranquil, quaint town would grab two of the spots. On this visit, I went to Pizzeria Marzano, which is located outside the historic downtown area. Pizzeria Marzano has received numerous accolades over the years, and I was excited to see for myself whether I agreed.

Jonni Eucalitto opened Pizzeria Marzano in 2009, turning his passion for Neapolitan pizza into a lifelong pursuit he’s never wavered from. Born and raised in Torrington, he took a sabbatical from college to backpack throughout Italy, eventually arriving in Florence, where he fell in love with the pizza. Deciding pizza was his calling, he approached the owner, changed his plans for a quick return to the US, and stayed in Florence to learn the art of Neapolitan pizza-making.

 

The Neapolitan style, which originated in Naples, has a few key elements. The crust presents two different experiences. Along the edges, it is airy, light and poofy, with the toppings kept at least an inch in, and the airiness allows for a nice charring if baked in a high-temperature oven. The crust at the center is much different. It is stretched thin and may not firm up in the baking process. With the sauce and cheese atop, this may leave the middle of the pie “soupy,” requiring a knife and fork. The color of the under-crust could range from a golden tan, no char, to a mix of darker tan with medium charring. Each pie is unique.

 

Eucalitto returned to the US with the vision to open his own pizzeria, but he was a little apprehensive about how Neapolitan pizza would be accepted in his hometown. The residents of Torrington leaned heavily towards the Greek style of pizza. His goal was to follow his instincts and love of the Neapolitan style and recreate the pizzas of Florence, where the crust blistered from the intense heat of the oven, but still maintained a soft, chewy texture. He immediately imported a large, hand-made, bright red Luca Capri wood-fired pizza oven from southern Italy, which could reach an internal temperature of 800 degrees. After almost 20 years of accolades, his concern about Torrington residents loving his pizza has been answered. And this love extended throughout Litchfield County, where the readers of Litchfield Magazine voted Pizzeria Marzano the best pizza in the county. That is quite an accomplishment.

 

When I arrived, I walked through the rear patio that probably seats 50 and into the entrance. I immediately saw the bright red wood-fired pizza oven to my left behind the large counter. At the far end I noticed there were several people lined up at the register. I peered into the dining area and noticed stanchions on the already occupied tables with a playing card attached at the top. There were probably tables for another 50-75 guests.

 

Pizzeria Marzano’s menu is extremely focused on its award-winning pizza. Guests can choose either Pizza Rossa or Pizza Bianco, essentially with or without sauce. The menu also includes a few salads, several paninis and a handful of calzones. But at the heart and soul of Pizzeria Marzano is the Neapolitan pizza. There are eight pre-set Rossa combinations and eight Biancos. The Rossas stay very traditional, limiting the toppings to fresh or grated Mozzarella, Mozzarella di Bufala, Scarmoza (aged Mozzarella), Parmigiano-Reggiano, Soppressata and olives. The Pizza Biancos get more creative, with toppings including Buffalo chicken, Frank’s hot sauce, gorgonzola, fontinella, cherry tomatoes, clams, prosciutto, spicy salami, pesto, artichokes, arugula, meatballs and ricotta. I assume guests are free to mix and match to create their combination.

 

I ordered the Margherita DOC, described as tomatoes, fresh Mozzarella di Bufala (the traditional cheese of Naples), fresh basil and Parmigiano-Reggiano. It’s been a while since I’ve seen “DOC” on a menu. It stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata ("Controlled Designation of Origin") and refers to high-quality ingredients, including fresh Mozzarella di Bufala and DOP-certified San Marzano tomatoes. This could be a great visit.

 

When the pizza arrived, it looked every bit the product of Eucalitto’s Italian training. The crust was picture-perfect, light, airy, and had a good amount of charring, with one side slightly more charred than the other. The cheese looked perfectly melted, and sitting proudly in the center of the pie was something I have never seen, a small mozzarella ball. A few basil leaves also adorned the top, some charred from the trip to the blazing hot oven, others barely touched.

 

I tore off a little piece of the crust and tasted. It was fantastic. It had great texture, delicious flavor and a little snap and crunch to offset the soft interior. It was one of the top crusts anywhere, and a great start. I next peered underneath, and it was very light, borderline tan with little, if any, charring.

 

I pulled the first slice and true to its heritage, the center was a little soupy, I needed to reach for my knife and fork. I cut my first taste from the tip. The sauce was fantastic, and the cheese was just as delicious. This was a great combination. I slowed the pace to enjoy each piece. On each bite, the sauce was full of sweet richness, the cheese full of flavor, and when paired with the crispy, charred edges, it was a wonderful pizza.

 

Overall, I wholeheartedly agree that Pizzeria Marzano serves authentic and excellent Neapolitan pizza. The crust was fantastic, and when paired with great sauce and cheese, it created visions of open aired pizzerias in Florence’s Piazza del Duomo. The Margherita DOC was outstanding, and I wish I would have ordered another variety to further see Eucalitto’s vision come to life. Pizzeria Marzano deserves its spot on the CT Pizza Trail, it is ranked high on my list as well.

 

1315 E Main St.

Torrington, CT 06790

(860) 618-0875

pizzeriamarzano.com