It's A Woman's World: Chef Renee Touponce of Oyster Club, Mystic

Kristin L. Wolfe
Photography courtesy of Idlewild Photo Co.

Photography courtesy of Idlewild Photo Co.

Connecticut is full of trailblazing women, particularly in the culinary world. Our ongoing column, “It’s A Woman’s World” is devoted to CT female influencers who’ve forged their own paths, often in food-related field long dominated by men.

Whether farming the land, bringing healthy food to the masses, feeding an entrepreneurial spirit, or injecting feminism with food, these groundbreaking ladies have set a new definition of women’s work, creating new paths, and setting examples for those who follow.

It’s impossible to leave Mystic without falling in love. From the adorable hotels and shops, to the views along the water, the drawbridge, and THE FOOD, you will undoubtedly leave it with a scrapbook (even a virtual one) of memories. And, for such a small town, Mystic is brimming with incredible places to eat. One of the best is at Oyster Club with Chef Renee Touponce at the helm. I’ve had numerous dishes by her over the last year, and it's just never enough. Every plate is full of flavor, yet light. For me, they conjure summer sea breezes with a dash of cozy home dinner.

Possibly the most memorable was at their 10th annual Pig & Oyster Dinner at the end of March this year. With a bold cocktail in hand (using Oyster Shio Koji, Meyer Lemon, Gin, and Lemon Tonic), the meal opened with an Oyster Ceviche that was cold and included a pork fat parsnip chip; then came the Pig Head Terrine with Fishers Island chicharron, aji amarillo and pickled onion, and viola blossoms; the Garlic Shio Pernil using trotter braised Marfax beans, sweet potato, smoked oyster cream, and slow roasted pork--talk about home in a bowl! A dash of Oyster Dressed Greens with crispy, dry-aged pork cheek; and, if you’re still with me, a just sweet-enough final bite of Pork Fat Chocolate Mousse. Do you see what I mean about memorable?

I was excited to talk to Chef Renee a bit more about food, the biz, and her tremendous talent for preparing beautiful, memorable stories on a plate. Here’s what she had to say

1) What were some of your first experiences like, getting into the food industry and how does it compare to your work at OC?

My first experience in a kitchen is completely different compared to OC. The first kitchen I worked in was exactly what you hear about kitchens: a team of mostly men, [filled with] booze, drugs, [noise], chaos, and absolutely where I wanted to be at the time. The food was American regional, and did not push the boundaries. Oyster Club however is somewhere you're allowed to explore your creativity. The staff is a mix of both male and females from countries all over the world. I will say though in every kitchen I have been a part of I have made some lifelong friends who I would call family.

2) Tell me about an early food memory.

My earliest food memory is smearing a piece of bread and butter across my plate after eating a salad of cucumber, tomatoes and vinegar that my grandmother would always make with every meal and thinking, wow this is delicious! I looked forward to that bite every time I had dinner. Still, to this day I always eat a slice of bread and butter with my meal. I would say my passion for cooking kicked in when I was a little kid. I always wanted to be in the kitchen with my mom and be her little helper...I never left.

3) How would you describe yourself as a chef ?

I find this hard to answer for myself, but, I can only hope that my team thinks of me as a calm, respectful, kind, dedicated leader.

4) What are you most proud of ?

I am most proud of my self growth. It's important to me to be the best version of myself in a healthy positive way.

5) Sooo, what's left to explore at OC, and beyond?

This summer, there are summer nights on Stone Acres Farm and a new cocktail lounge/tiki bar in the tree house.

6) And, what’s your favorite ingredient to work with?

Fish, especially tuna. I really enjoy the whole butchering process, and utilizing the whole fish. I like challenging myself by creating charcuterie with different parts. I could nerd out all day on it. [Nerd Away, Chef!]

7) When you find time away, what do you like to do?

I like spending time at home with my partner and our cat, cooking dinner at home, being in the woods foraging or hiking. [I also like] going to the beach as much as summer allows me, [and I’m] soon to be fishing as much as possible, and reading as much as I can.

8) Who in the food world do you admire?

Anthony Bourdain, Iliana Regan & Josh Niland

9) What would your last meal look like? Guilty pleasures?

My last meal would 100% be a pepperoni grinder, toasted with lettuce, tomato, marinara sauce, and cheese! Guilty pleasures? Mom-like, boxed American tacos, pizza, empanadas, and anything chocolate.

10) How about some advice for women in the industry ?

YOU CAN DO IT! Do good work. Be kind along the way. Work hard, and don't let anyone stop you. If you want to be a good chef, put in the work and let your food speak for itself. There is no gender in good food

Well, I’d say that’s a perfect line to end on and a mantra worth shouting from the rooftops! I think I’ll do that right here, THERE’S NO GENDER IN FOOD!