Several months ago, I’m certain my reaction to my dear friend, Katy, mentioning RSVP was something like, “Yeah. That means respond.” If we’re being technical, it’s actually “répondez s'il vous plait” or translated from French to English, “respond, if you please.”
Until Katy finished her thought by telling me that RSVP a French restaurant in Litchfield County that she heard about from one of her friends who’s a bartender. “He raves about it,” she said.
As is always the case, time passed. We kind of forgot about RSVP and barely looked into it for weeks, even months. Only occasionally we’d briefly bring it up, referring it as “THAT French place in Cornwall.”
If you live in Connecticut, you may recognize Matthew Kirshner. He is the pastry chef, bread baker, and owner of the popular Sandy Hook newcomer, Uncle Matt’s Bakery and Café, but he has spent time baking in our fair state for over 20 years. Kirshner has graced the kitchens of The Roger Sherman Inn, Wave Hill Breads, Bantam Bread Company, and even the Russian Tea Room in NYC. (Side note: Wave Hill and Bantam were just awarded “Best Bread in CT” by Food & Wine). But in June of 2021, after years of being covered in flour in other people’s kitchens, Matt decided it was time to get dirty in his own. Thus, one of Sandy Hook’s most beloved spots, Uncle Matt’s Bakery, was born, serving breakfast, lunch, as well as a wide array of outrageously good pastries, and artisan bread.
If you’re a hot dog connoisseur in Fairfield County, you surely remember the legendary roadside eats at Swanky Franks. It’s safe to say that a lot of us still miss the ripper style dogs, THAT CHILI, and the fresh cut skin-on fries that were served to you in a plentiful heap.
Things like that have a way of coming back. Well, almost.
For Bobby Manere Jr. there is a full circle kind of feeling at Dogtown, located in a half commercial, half residential area off of a busy main road in Milford.
If Manere’s last name sounds familiar, it should. His father, Robert Manere Sr., was the fourth owner of Swanky Franks from the late 1980s until the later 2000s. He might be the Swanky Franks head hot dog honcho that a younger generation remembers the most.
Named after the stunning bulbous flower, Allium Eatery’s name is as impeccably cultivated as the plant. The name sets the tone for what’s inside – the décor, the food’s preparation and presentation, every little detail is deliberate, delicate.
When The Schoolhouse at Cannondale shut its doors for the last time at the onset of the pandemic, Chef Michelle Greenfield had some time to think about her next move.
Greenfield describes her dishes as refined American cuisine with French undertones, and that’s exactly what you can expect to find here. (Classically trained in French cuisine, her recent experiences also include the esteemed Bernard’s restaurant in Ridgefield, and, briefly, Jessup Hall in Westport.)
Oui, oui! You did hear correctly. There is a new French bistro on the block in South Norwalk and it goes by the name of Appetit Bistro.
And while it may be new to Connecticut, it may not be new to some of its residents. For six years and counting, Appetit Bistro has been a staple in the village of Port Chester.
For Montoya—who co-owns the restaurant with executive chef Ismael Carias—opening a second location three towns and a city away from the original was a no-brainer because of the fanfare they’ve received from the state that’s a stone’s throw away.
So, with that, they’re bringing all the duck a l'orange, chicken paillard, steak frites, and buttery, garlicky escargot you can handle, right to the center of SoNo.
But the pair’s French theme didn’t simply happen just because.
“He (Ismael) ran the kitchen at Crew in Greenwich,” Montoya says. “And I fell in love with French food when I started working at L’escale back in 2002. It was my first job ever and I loved it. I was there for five years. I ended up managing BLT Steak in White Plains and we opened our desired concept because we knew we would be the only French bistro in Port Chester.”
Their love letter to French food is evident at Appetit. Dishes are sometimes classic. The steak frites certainly is. Hard seared hangar steak, crusty on the outside, cool red on the inside, and tender as all hell—whatever that means to you. It’s served as it should be with a pile of salty shoestring fries and some frizzled onions that await the residuals of what should be a generous pour of the black peppercorn sauce. It’s always my ideal French meal when paired with a bold merlot or a strong Sazerac depending on the night. Most often for me, it’s the Saz.
It’s been a couple of years since I dined at Bistro V on the Ave in Greenwich, and I was thrilled to have been invited for lunch last week.
When Marc and Evelyne Penvenne noticed a for sale sign on the restaurant’s doors they knew that they had to step in and purchase it. The former Versailles was not only a fixture in the Greenwich restaurant scene, but for this couple it had a nostalgic and sentimental meaning. They just couldn’t let the beloved establishment go; the two met there as employees in. The Penvennes had already established themselves as successful restaurateurs. The owners of another perennial favorite, Méli-Mélo, have been feeding guests there, just a couple of blocks away, for over 25 years.
After a slight rebranding, facelift and name shift, Versailles became Bistro V, inspired by their memories of growing up with the classic bistros in France.
La Plage is officially open in Westport. The Inn at Longshore and adjoining restaurant were recently acquired by the Greenwich Hospitality Group, the parent company of the Delamar hotels and restaurants. La Plage is their gift to Westport.
Pronounced plah-je, plage is the French word for beach, and a fitting name when you have a French chef at the helm in the kitchen. Until recently the restaurant was home to Pearl at Longshore which shuttered its doors in January. The interior has undergone a bit of a facelift to embrace its new coastal, casual vibe. Gone is the darker, refined and urban inspired décor which has been replaced with brighter white-washed walls, wicker lampshades and a livelier, beachier ambiance. Queue in the steel brass drums perhaps, but this isn’t your piña colada/Cheeseburger in Paradise type joint. This upscale yet casual eatery is best perhaps described as a beachy chic shack of sorts.
Last month Restaurant L’Ostal’s Chef Jared invited us back to sample the new summer flavors. His menu changes regularly to keep things interesting but remains concise, keeping options to a minimum. There’s enough of a selection to please the palate yet not too much as to overwhelm. This of course is intentional; there’s just one chef in the kitchen and he wants perfection. And perfection is what you will get.
I’d like to say that L’Ostal is for the adventurous, inquisitive, and those familiar with the flavors from the Pyrenees to Provence, or would like to become so. So if Steak Frîtes or French Onion Soup is what you're after, you’ll have to look elsewhere – at least during the warmer months which beckon flavors that are vibrant, green and fresh. What you will find here, at L’Ostal, are some of the best damned Escargots and Oeuf Mayonnaise made with Provencal mustard, pickles, onion and croutons. (I wrote about those from our last visit here.)
It’s past 6 p.m. The Darien Butcher Shop is closed. You cruise by and you see people inside. Some are standing, others are sitting at community tables, and they’re all probably enjoying a glass of vino while they chat, laugh, and catch up.
You can’t walk in for a slab of bacon or a thick, bone-in ribeye, so what’s actually happening?
Four days per week, Peter Crawford transforms his business into The Charles Underground, a French-inspired eatery, and the shop’s after-hours alter ego.
The Charles is where Crawford, a former New England Culinary Institute graduate who has worked with Charlie Palmer, Jean-Georges, Neil Gallagher, and Terrence Brennen, gets to step back into his passion as a classically trained French chef.
Foie gras and dry-aged steak? Sure. Homemade boudin blanc sausage with Robuchon potatoes, and morel mushroom sauce? They have done that, too.
Lending a helping hand in the front of the house is someone you might recognize from his time at Kawa Ni. Anthony Rinaldi acts as a restaurant jack-of-all-trades at The Charles, whether he’s waiting and bussing tables or assisting in the kitchen with cooking and occasionally washing dishes.
Picture this: you're at the beach tanning when all of a sudden you hear that dreaded sound of your stomach rumbling. But you aren’t in the mood for the classic hot dog or chicken tenders that are usually served at a beach. You want something a little more gourmet, like a lobster roll or a farm-fresh salad. Have no fear! Hook’d on the Sound can provide you just that and is located only a few feet away from your towel.
Darien finally gets a serious contender in upscale dining, bringing New York City excellence to the area without the city prices. Rooted in history and steeped in tradition, Restaurant L’Ostal celebrates the cuisines of Southern France and its neighboring communities from Catalonia, the Languedoc, Provence and the Alps of the Piemonte region of Italy with precision and accuracy.
Before I share my own culinary experience, you must meet Chef Jared Sippel and General Manager and Sommelier Joe Cracco.
Steaming hot, wrapped in a bun, the hot dog, frankfurter, red hot, tube steak, wiener, frank, weenie, dirty water dog, dachshund, all relate to spiced pork or beef stuffed inside a casing, then fried, grilled, smoked, boiled, steamed, and placed in a long roll, topped with numerous toppings and devoured. They are so popular that Spotify offers over 300 songs about hot dogs, from Elvis to Zeppelin, Joey Chestnut is a household name for eating 75 hot dogs in 10 minutes, and outrageous antics of flamboyant athletes are called “hot-dogging.”
The homemade ice cream, butter lathered lobster rolls, and topping loaded hot dogs at Heibeck’s Stand all made their season debut a few weeks late, but the popular Route 7 roadside gem is back in action.
The delay in their opening is due to the obvious COVID-19 climate. Like many restaurants, Heibeck’s took the extra time to work out how to open as a takeout-only model with online or call ahead ordering and to put even more sanitation measures in place. “We definitely took a step back in our opening to make sure we were ready,” says manager Rachel Williams. “We love our customers, and our main concern was to make sure they’re safe and comfortable.”
Williams also mentioned that Heibeck’s took additional time to properly mark where walk-up traffic should flow and social distancing markers once in line at the windows to help ensure customer safety. Entrance, for now, is through the parking lot in back, then let the arrows and signs guide you from there.
To Heibeck’s regulars, noticeably absent will be their charming, pet friendly, BYOB dining patio that is usually decked out with tables, chairs, flowers, greenery, and string lights. Where folks would normally go to kick back and devour a cup of Deep Purple Cow or Trash Can ice cream, is now mostly empty. “It was sad not putting out the furniture and plants,” says co-owner Barbara Heibeck, who owns the stand with her son, Skylar Smith. “It felt different.”
Bruxelles Brasserierecently opened its doors on Main Street in the space formerly occupied by Barcelona Wine Bar. The setting is hip - a SoHo vibe in SoNo – the flavors are somewhat more traditional. Chef Roland Olah describes his cuisine as simple, though I beg to differ. While there is a familiarity with every dish, nearly everything we tried also had an element of surprise. At Bruxelles Brasseries, you might find that the expected meets the unexpected.
“It feels like we’re in the Village,” said my gal-pal who joined me for my much anticipated jaunt to Bar August in New Haven. We can’t always explain it, but most of us can conjure an image that falls in line with what “the Village” is? It’s small and cozy, brick and historic, refined but not over the top, with a dash of European flair. And, with the lively scene that New Haven has already, Bar August is just a primo location from the start. Built in people-watching from its side-street, almost corner digs, and a menu that will knock your socks off, Bar August has IT.
When food trucks in Connecticut started to become more prevalent, there was one I remembered well. The name “Fryborg” definitely stood out, and the fact that they specialized in hand-cut fries didn’t suck either. I first stumbled upon Fryborg around the time Two Roads Brewing Company opened in Stratford, so that “stumble” was a real one after multiple pints in the brewery’s upstairs tasting room. It was then that Fryborg’s bacon, egg, and cheese fries and their marinara-laden pizza fries perfectly complimented my buzz. If I had to render a guess, I’m not in the minority on similar experiences.
Lately, I’ve heard a lot about Blackie’s Hot Dog Stand, a roadside dive that’s been open for 90 years and counting. Blackie’s came up in casual conversation twice; the founder of this site, Stephanie Webster, heard about it from a friend, then a friend of mine mentioned it. Shortly thereafter, Visit Connecticut posted a list of “8 Classic Summer Drive-Ins” with Blackie’s being one of the featured haunts. Well, now I had to check it out. That’s no coincidence, that’s a sign!
Union League Café is frequently mentioned as one of Connecticut’s best restaurants. They’ve won multiple awards in various publications—in fact, it’s one of the more acclaimed places in the state—and they’ve been a New York Times darling three different times. Additionally, Union League’s chef/owner, Jean Pierre Vuillermet is recognized as a Maîtres Cuisiniers de France, translated, a Master Chef of France. Awards aside, Union League Café is set to celebrate what’s arguably its greatest achievement, their 25th anniversary.
To celebrate this quarter century milestone, ULC is rolling out a handful of throwback dishes inspired by their first 25 years. All October long, diners will have the option to partake in a three-course, prix fixe tasting for $55 per person, or $79 if you’re down for carefully selected French wine pairings alongside your meal.
Connecticut claims its share of Celebrity Chefs. These culinary artists routinely win Food Network Competitions, earn James Beard commendations, and enjoy (or endure) their roles as restaurant Rock Stars.
Though less lionized, Chef Frederic Kieffer is every bit their equal. He created the exquisite l’Escale in Greenwich, followed by Artisan in Southport, then again in West Hartford. All are considered gems … and like Kieffer himself, understated.
One of the best parts about being on the road in the summer in Connecticut is stopping at a drive-in for a quick but tasty meal. The state has many such spots, but here are 8 of the most tried and true.
Sea Swirl, Mystic: It's easy to spot Sea Swirl as the former Carvel location, but the focus now is on fried seafood, especially clams, scallops, and oysters.
The Sycamore, Bethel: Known for its steak burgers and homemade root beer, as well as its carhops and 1950's ambiance. Be sure to check out their web site for cruise nights and and other special events.
Harry's Place, Colchester: Looking for a real juicy burger? Harry's shapes its patties into a ball, puts them on a grill, and then gradually flattens them with a spatula. The results have brought customers back every summer for decades.
