Jarret Liotta is a veteran freelance writer whose articles and essays have appeared in over 75 different publications, including The New York Times & National Geographic. He is a native of Westport, Connecticut.
I was browsing CTbites recently and was surprised and thrilled to find no contributor had yet posted a review of Gold’s Delicatessen in Westport, because now I get to do it.
In a nutshell, if you taste a hot corned beef sandwich from Gold’s, you will be in Hebraic heaven. This is a real New York style Jewish deli, and as fine a one as I’ve ever found in New York or Miami.
In one of the rarer gifts by today’s deli experience, Gold’s makes its own corned beef—as they make their own brisket. Both are excellent and, if you’re lucky—stay with me here—you’ll get a slightly fattier serving that is just astounding for its flavor and the kind of grand indulgent satisfaction you won’t find with the store-bought stuff served in most places.
By all outward appearances, Seasons Eats looks like your typical lunch takeout storefront. Looking through the window, you witness chaotic swarms of downtown types picking up a salad or sandwich to take back to their desks. But peer a little closer and discover a culinary gem that defies categorization.
"We're not a deli. We're not a sandwich shop," says Phil Costas, a New York Times Three Star chef, who with his wife Liz, runs the place. “Maybe we're a cafe. I don’t know. We keep evolving.”
That’s why the Costas have just changed the name from Katie’s Gourmet to Seasons Eats. What started as a gourmet specialty shop 16 years ago, an offshoot of their highly successful American restaurant Kathleen’s, has become a… I don’t know, maybe the best word for it is indeed “Eats.” In this tiny 1300 square foot storefront, Phil and his five elves serve nearly 1400 delightfully inventive breakfasts, lunches and dinners a week.
Having been in Westport for almost eight years, I am definitely enjoying all the hip, new restaurants popping up like wild mushrooms, from California fusion to country chic. I love the innovative foods, inventive cocktails, the trendy decor and the chance to hang out with people who are far more interesting than I am. But sometimes I crave a little old school, mom-and-pop, and a diversion from my mostly vegetarian ways. After driving past Art’s Deli on the Post Road, I finally went in, and discovered a wonderful new, old place. It seems that in spite of all that has changed, what’s old has become new again. But this time, it’s better than ever.
Carly Monson is our roving 10 yrs old food critic. She hopes to get Fairfield County kids excited about eating in new venues like this one...
Are you starving for some classic deli food? Then get in the car and head on down to Rye Ridge Deli in Stamford, CT. As soon as I got there I knew exactly what I was going to order, Matzo Ball Soup and half a sandwich of corn beef and half a sandwich of pastrami on white bread. Before the waiter even came to take my order we got two bowls of pickles one bowl had half sour pickles the other had sour pickles.
The much anticipated Fresh Market opened today in Westport (despite the picket lines) not with the ceremonial ribbon cutting, but a Parmigian cheese cutting as is customary for Fresh Market store openings. The arrival of this North Carolina based grocery chain promises to do much to revitalize both the old Shaw's shopping center and our daily shopping routine. The physical space and the products they carry feel like a breath of fresh air, and I haven’t encountered such friendly executives and staff since I lived on the West Coast. Granted it was opening day, but employees stood ready in each aisle anticipating your every need and every question--often offering you something delicious to eat. The atmosphere is comfortable and warm, almost like a European general store, but the best part (even better than the fact that they walk you to your car) is the quality and diversity of the product lines.
I have spent my life driving between Whole Foods for my higher end specialty items, and then high-tailing it, often in traffic, toStop & Shop for my basics (maximizing my carbon footprint). The Fresh Market fees like a higher end shopping experience, but it also carries standard grocery store items.
I followed my nose at the Blues and BBQ Festival in Westport last weekend, moving in many directions from one flaming grill to the next, when amidst all the smoke, one flavorful bite of spice rubbed grilled chicken stopped me in my tracks. The scent did not lie; the taste did not disappoint. The chicken was grilled with El’s Kitchen Chicken and Pork Medium Spicy Dry Rub and Seasoning Mix. The small sample was so flavorful; I bought a jar on the spot. Home cooking proved the tastiness could be achieved without festival accoutrement, and I called Eleanor Smith, the owner and the “El” of El’s Kitchen, who lives in Weston to learn more about her products.
Recently my husband brought home a spice from Penzeys Spices in Norwalk. It looked harmless enough. It was the Smoky Penzeys 4/S, where the so-called "4S's" stood for special seasoned sea salt. Sure, I've had smoked sea salt before, and yes, they do add great flavor to chicken, beef or fish, but this "all purpose smoky salt" touted one more tasty possibility. Upon reading the words "…even popcorn" my husband and I decided to give it a try for the Sunday night line-up.
We popped up a large batch on the stove top - the old school way - sprinkled on a generous amount of the 4/S while the kernels were still hot, and raced over to the TIVO. After the first bite, I could no longer focus on the screen. I had to run downstairs to add more spice to the crunchy corn and only then could I carry on. The salty smokiness of this seasoning is absolutely wonderful, and really turns your average bowl of popcorn into a gourmet treat. I've had a lot of seasoned popcorn, but with ingredients like smoked paprika, black pepper, rosemary, and thyme, this spice was a winner, and it's reasonably priced at $2.95 for 4 ounces.
Given the unexpected joy in this little brown canister, I went back to Penzeys to inquire about other popcorn possibilities.
I found this Chardonnay Smoked Fleur de Selin Whole Foods the other day. It's made by a company called India Tree, and has a distinct smoky smell and flavor making it the perfect seasoning for fish, chicken, or even freshly sauteed spinach with a squeeze of lemon juice. It's a great shortcut to a uniquely tasty meal.
Here is a great recipe for Cod that features this food find:
