From a cantina to a brasserie. From Mexican to French-ish. But for Colt Taylor, the idea of his space on Branford’s N Main Street is for it to stay as a neighborhood spot. With that said, Taylor’s Los Charros Cantina is out as of August 31 and he immediately got to work on bringing a version of his acclaimed Old Saybrook restaurant, The Essex, a bit further south. At The Essex Brasserie, Taylor’s idea is a super casual, come as you are spot, that’s not only allowed him and his staff to streamline their thought process every day by not doing two very different menus and styles of food, it’s also to give his customers something they’ve been asking for.
From “a uniquely American, French inspired restaurant and bar” to “a uniquely American, globally inspired restaurant and bar.”
For The Benjamin—which opened just before last summer in the former Bernard’s Restaurant and Sarah’s Wine Bar space—and owners Rob Moss and Dave Studwell of Washington Prime and B.J. Lawless of B.J. Ryan’s, B.J. Ryan’s East, and BanC House, they knew that a year later they’d have to switch up the restaurant’s philosophy. Call it a pivot if you want, but according to Studwell, it wasn’t just one thing that needed changing.
“I’d like to say it was one thing,” he says. “Honestly, we were high on French, but not everyone wants caviar, foie gras, and smoked trout all the time. Ridgefield is a family driven town and we didn’t realize that.”
Ask any fine dining enthusiast in our state and there’s a strong chance The Essex, owned by chef Colt Taylor, get a glowing recommendation.
While writing this, it’s important to mention I’ve personally never been to The Essex. I simply know its reputation and I’ve heard the raves from my nerdiest food friends. I’ll get up to Old Saybrook soon, but before I check off The Essex, I wanted to meet Taylor at his other concept, Los Charros Cantina, where the menu marriage is a co-existence of authentic Mexican cuisine and L.A. style Mexican.
