When trying to come up with the “what is it?” as it pertains to his new pizzeria in Greenwich’s Glenville section, Joe Criscuolo uttered the phrase, “it’s the evolution of the neighborhood slice shop, without the slices.” That’s exactly what Luca’s Pizzeria—named after Joe’s father, who founded the legendary Pizza Post in Cos Cob back in 1972—is all about. You won’t find doughy pizza that sits in your stomach like a brick. No wilted, colorless salads either. The cheesesteak, served on pizza bread? It’s not as dry as cardboard.

And to think, Criscuolo, who you don’t only know from his family’s Pizza Post, but Meatball & Co. in Darien, almost didn’t open anything. The reality is, he almost left the state, and country, altogether.