Last April, Restaurant L’Ostal and chef-owner Jared Sippel, quietly added what he calls “a layer” to his four-plus-year-old Darien hotspot. La Cave—the French word for cellar—is Sippel’s homage to European wine bars. It’s small, cozy, intimate. No, they won’t mix you a cocktail. You certainly can’t order a cheeseburger. “Can you bring me the escargot from the L’Ostal menu?” Also…no.