I guess after making pizza for over fifty years, it comes as no surprise that one of the best pizzas in the greater New Haven area, as well as one of the best pizzas in CT, is made by Pasqual (Pat) DeRiso at Ernie’s Pizza. Pat is the second-generation owner of Ernie’s, which was started by his father and mother, Ernesto (Ernie) and Jennie De Riso, in 1971. Pat purchased the business in 1989 and now continues the family tradition, personally crafting every single pizza that comes out of the oven.
From Flushing, New York, Michelin Guide recommended soup dumplings have made their way to the cluster of restaurants outside of the Stamford Town Center. Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao, a growing Shanghainese micro chain, held its soft opening and introduction to Connecticut at the beginning of June as part of its expansion that includes locations in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland, Delaware, Georgia, Chicago, and soon, again, in our general area when they open in White Plains.
Four years ago, when I first covered Bobby Manere’s Dogtown in Milford—where Cali-inspired fast casual and a little bits of his dad’s lower Fairfield County famous Swanky Franks meet—he talked about wanting to open a Dogtown sequel. That time is now, and Bethel, you’re the lucky recipient. Manere broke the Bethel news on my friend, Jeff Spencer’s Sweet’N Up Podcast, when he was a guest alongside Kyle Marcoux, aka, The Vulgar Chef.
My CT Pizza journey continued in the East Rock section of New Haven with a visit to One6Three – The Pizza Joint, as it approaches its 10th anniversary. One6Three is located on the corner of Foster and Willow, and I have been hearing a lot of positive feedback from my pizza buddies, so I wandered over to check it out. As I drove through the East Rock section it was a déjà vu experience for me, the area was reminiscent of my neighborhood growing up, lots of two-family homes lined the street and you could feel the sense of community. It was that environment that first molded my love of Italian food and great NJ pizza
Connecticut may not be home to an official Michelin Guide, but this new Chinese restaurant in New Haven has Bib Gourmand-approved hand-pulled noodles, soup dumplings and much more.
Kung Fu Kitchen recently celebrated its soft opening on Orange Street in the city’s Ninth Square neighborhood, marking the first Connecticut location of chef/owner Peter Song’s concept. Song opened the first Kung Fu in Manhattan to great fanfare a dozen years ago, adding additional city restaurants and outposts in Orlando and Boston.
Have a conversation with Seleste Tan for just a few minutes and the word that comes to mind is “humble.” Tan’s bakery, Lady Wong Patisserie, with two locations in New York City, speaks about it like she never expected it to be the megahit that it is. “I did it for a hobby during the pandemic and I never thought it would be big,” she says shyly. Her confections, inspired by flavors from her home country of Singapore, and travels throughout Southeast Asia, are her muse. And that hobby? It turned into national coverage in all the big food publications and then some.
Fast casual fried chicken is a hot craze that’s seemingly not cooling off anytime soon. Haven Hot Chicken, Birdcode Hot Chicken, the new to Connecticut Dave’s Hot Chicken, and smaller spots like Stamford’s Cwispy Chicken are proof of that. But even newer to the coop is Dippin Chicken in East Norwalk where Korean fried chicken is their menu’s centerpiece.
New Haven’s Graduate by Hilton Hotel is about a mile’s walk from Wooster Street, and in fact has a “pizza pay phone” in its lobby, with a direct line to Sally’s Apizza. But downstairs at its bar, a Connecticut dad has turned his own passion for pizza into a weekend pop-up with a loyal following.
Joe Pangia’s Three Sons Pizza got its start at Old Heidelberg last May, offering fresh-baked 16-inch pies and slices out of its bar kitchen on weekends. Pangia, who lives in Middletown, is an insurance professional and avid home cook who began to perfect his pizza recipes during the pandemic, working on the dough, sauce and toppings and asking for feedback from friends and family.
When the popular Venezuelan-meets-Mexican mashup, Mil Sabores, vacated their original brick-and-mortar at 2043 Fairfield Avenue and went onto opening a bigger restaurant further down the street, they left their digs to another tenant, even if it is for a limited run. Lao Cocina, a Laotian and Puerto Rican fusion spot, that’s mostly takeout, is filling out the rest of that lease. Created by the husband-and-wife team of April Khanthaphixay, her husband, Daniel Colon, and Daniel’s uncle Sergio, they’re mixing their respective cultures for a new kind of concept.
When a homebrewing hobby runs in the family, it’s only proper to open a brewery, isn’t it? That’s at least what happened in the Guda Family, whose brewery, Sly Bandit, may have caught your eye while on Route 7 in Wilton near the Norwalk line. Owned by Dave, who’s retired from the information technology world, Wendy, a former New Cannan High School math teacher who still teaches at CT State Community College Norwalk, and their son, Mike, who left his job as a market research executive to brew beer full time.
Once again, Strega owner Danilo Mongillo is celebrating a prestigious honor for his authentic Italian fare – but this one means more, he says.
Gambero Rosso, an Italian authority on food, wine and travel, awarded Mongillo’s New Haven restaurant a “due forchette,” or ‘two forks” designation in a recent ceremony in New York City. Restaurants are honored with a rating of one to three forks, similar to Michelin star ratings.
Less than a year ago, we covered Amanda Eng in our Q&A series, “It’s a Woman’s World,” with a focus on her coffee pop up, Kash & Liv Coffee Creations. Along with popping up all over the Newtown, Sandy Hook, and Danbury areas, Eng found a home as a coffee vendor inside of Uncle Matt’s Bakery and Cafe in the fall of 2023. Just over a year later, right before the holiday season, Eng teamed up with her customer-turned-friend, Meghan Jefts, to open a spot of their own. At AM Coffee & Co. in Southbury, Eng, a self-professed coffee nerd since she was 14, is continuing her coffee journey that saved her from corporate America.
Gioia, Italian restaurant, market, gelateria and rooftop space located at 150 Wooster Street, New Haven, has just launched “The Red Sauce Joint by Gioia” in its rooftop dining and bar space. Running from January 31 – April 27, the fully-enclosed and heated space will be transformed into an inviting, nostalgic space inspired by classic and beloved Italian American eateries. The seasonal activation will blend this timeless culture and treasured environment – including red and white checkered tables, warm string lights, classic Italian greenery, Chianti bottles and cured Italian food products - with Gioia’s signature charm, warmth and fun, and a menu featuring classic and familiar Italian American cuisine and beverages.
The special pop-up food and beverage menu will include Eggplant Parm, Beef Carpaccio, Spaghetti sandwich, Fried Mutz with marinara, Clam Casino style Arancini and classic pastas preparations including Alfredo, a la Vodka and Lasagna Bolognese. Dessert options such as fun interpretations on a classic Cannoli featuring a Tiramisu filling and Olive Oil Cake with a Limoncello Zabaglione will be featured. The beverage program will include Italian wines by the jelly jar glass, a Winter Spritz, a coffee-steeped “Corsica Negroni” with Gin and a fun and playful twist on the “Godfather Cocktail.” Shared dish options will encourage communal dining, and classic and interactive dining elements will surprise guests.
Since April of 2024, a new restaurant by the name of Rye Bird, located in the longtime former home of Isla in Fairfield, teased a tasty, affordable, neighborhood restaurant concept. Operated by Post Road Hospitality, Rye Bird officially cracked open its doors on October 19 after hosting some patio preview parties prior to its grand opening. Rye Bird’s founder and president Frank Klein hopes it’ll catch on as the “next neighborhood joint” for a bunch of reasons.
Most Connecticut residents who were unfamiliar with Hugh Mangum before he and his family started making donuts in Wilton four years ago, may be oblivious to a few tidbits. Mangum, you see, isn’t only a French Culinary Institute graduate who worked under Jean-Georges Vongerichten, but he’s the founder of the popular Mighty Quinn’s BBQ. Now that his family’s donut shop, Rise Doughnuts, has gone from a pop up to its own physical location, paired with the fact that the Mangums reside in Wilton, the time to open another Mighty Quinn’s in nearby Norwalk in the former Bobby Q’s and the short lived Lechon Smokehouse space at The Waypointe.
“Yale asked me if I was interested in the space, and I took it as a challenge. A small space, few tables, no pizza – I was able to focus on fine dining.” I’m in New Haven, talking with chef Danilo Mongillo about Strega, his second restaurant of the same name, but with a very different concept.
“You have excellent food here – French, Spanish, American – and I took bringing this level of Italian to downtown, not in competition, but just to bring more good food here. That was the challenge.”
The first time I ate at Strega was the location in Milford (both restaurants are just off the corners of their respective city greens) and I’d returned many times for his creations which were just a little different – the way a sentence is altered when the pen is in a different hand – and made with exceptional ingredients. I ask if the new Strega is based on anything regionally Italian, and he shakes the question off, moving in another direction.
“Fine dining is about the technique. It’s about the balance of the flavors – something sweet, something sour – and the balance with the wine. The balance of the bite.”
From a cantina to a brasserie. From Mexican to French-ish. But for Colt Taylor, the idea of his space on Branford’s N Main Street is for it to stay as a neighborhood spot. With that said, Taylor’s Los Charros Cantina is out as of August 31 and he immediately got to work on bringing a version of his acclaimed Old Saybrook restaurant, The Essex, a bit further south. At The Essex Brasserie, Taylor’s idea is a super casual, come as you are spot, that’s not only allowed him and his staff to streamline their thought process every day by not doing two very different menus and styles of food, it’s also to give his customers something they’ve been asking for.
The uber-talented team that brought us Hachiroku Shokudo & Sake Bar, Hachiroku Handroll Bar, and most recently The Loop by Hachiroku, (Japanese marketplace), has done it again. The Wine Bar at The Loop opened a few weeks ago, and it is already drawing wine enthusiasts from all over the state of CT, seeking both their unique wine portfolio and outstanding Izakaya Japanese cuisine.
The Wine Bar at The Loop is a collaboration between Hachiroku’s Yuta Kamori and Ungrafted Selections’ Jason Black and Adam Bitker, purveyors of conscientiously farmed, handcrafted wines from small, independent growers. The partnership is magical with each brand delivering a “best in class” offering backed with deep knowledge and a desire for excellence, but with none of the fussiness that sometimes happens in the wine world. The Wine Bar is laid back, smart, sublime with that slight edginess we’ve come to expect from Hachiroku. It’s a vibe and we are here for it.
(Have a) Nice Day! Young Zhao and Wanting Zhang, owners of Junzi Kitchen, recently opened Nice Day in the heart of New Haven.
We met the two young owners at their newest restaurant a few days prior to their grand opening. Nice Day’s Elm Street location marks a bit of a sentimental reunion for the Chinese duo who first met as undergrads in the classrooms behind Yale University’s Neo-Gothic stone walls. Their first Chinese concept, Junzi Kitchen which they opened in 2011, sits just across the street.
The model for Nice Day is rather unique. Each Nice Day restaurant replaces a Chinese restaurant that has shuttered. Their goal is to save the traditional Chinese takeout while offering a fresh take on Chinese American Classics with their modern aesthetic, fresh ingredients, and menu which draws influences from the varied cuisines from throughout China. without altering the concept of traditional American Chinese food. In doing so, Young and Wanting have found a delicious recipe for success.
On the heels of their quarter century anniversary, Bailey’s Backyard, and its original and forever owner, Sal Bagliavio have a sequel. And no, it’s not following in the exact footsteps of Bailey’s—one of Connecticut O.G. farm-to-table restaurants. Ristorante numéro dos for Bagliavio and chef/partner Forrest Pasternack, who returned to Bailey’s recently, are entering the world of tacos with Taco Dia—because every day is taco day, not just Tuesdays.
If you’re at least a little familiar with Bailey’s, Bagliavio and Pasternack entering the realm of Mexican cuisine isn’t that shocking. Bailey’s is very New American, and if you’ve eaten there, Mexican pops up on the menu frequently, and especially on their Wednesday night Market Table tasting menu.