Four years ago, when I first covered Bobby Manere’s Dogtown in Milford—where Cali-inspired fast casual and a little bits of his dad’s lower Fairfield County famous Swanky Franks meet—he talked about wanting to open a Dogtown sequel. That time is now, and Bethel, you’re the lucky recipient. Manere broke the Bethel news on my friend, Jeff Spencer’s Sweet’N Up Podcast, when he was a guest alongside Kyle Marcoux, aka, The Vulgar Chef.
One of my favorite shows growing up was The Twilight Zone. Most episodes included Rod Serling’s famous, “Imagine, if you will…” and his describing a “fifth dimension” between reality and imagination. I sometimes think of those days, a simpler time when life moved more slowly, where information was absorbed from the three-dimensional surroundings versus the two-dimensional computer screen, where families viewed eating out as a bonus, not as a plan B because everyone was too tired to cook and when every meal was not measured by its TikTok and Instagram potential. Sometimes a restaurant is a place to bring family, outside the Internet measurements, outside the stars, likes and looks, and just serve simple fare at reasonable prices.
This daily heat and humidity can only mean one thing: it’s summertime in Connecticut. It’s also hot dog time in Connecticut! Meat-grilling season is here and Independence Day is right around the corner and with that brings the pressure of entertaining friends and family, lighting off “legal” fireworks, and curating an outdoor feast. But what if you didn’t have to worry about any of those things and instead decided to celebrate the season and holiday somewhere else, say, a local CT eatery that offers delicious hot dogs and other festive culinary options? As someone who grew up working at a hot dog stand, I know what makes a true dog standout from all the rest. Sometimes it’s about the basics, like mustard and kraut, and for others it’s about the chili, cheese, and other specialty toppings that cover the dog. No matter what you have in store for the summer and for the Fourth of July, the hot dog stands, restaurants, and drive-ins on this list will surely make you want to say “screw our plans, let’s keep it simple and leave the food to those that know it best.” And to that we say, “we’ve got you covered!” Goodbye, summer stress. Hello, mouth-watering hot dogs.
You’re vegan. Or you’re not. You’re trying to eat healthier, or well, maybe you’re not, but however you slice it, you’re missing or craving a good burger. So how about a burger that has no meat, but has peanut butter, jelly, and jalapenos?…stick with us here…
SoulFully Vegan in Berlin, is pretty much smack in the middle of CT, with Rt.9, I-91, I-691, and the Berlin Turnpike running through it. Long story short, you can reach Berlin easily as you find yourself criss-crossing the state. Berlin now also has the distinction of being the site of the vegan brick and mortar eatery that will have you rethinking your next fast food craving.
Allison and Calvin Vaughan are the dynamic duo behind SoulFully Vegan. Their new eating adventure began not that long ago in 2019 when a call to action was needed after an eye-opening health diagnosis for Calvin. What followed for this couple was a slew of analysis of their current eating situation, followed by investigation and education on how to eat healthier, and an impactful viewing of the documentary “What the Health?” (currently on Netflix). They knew they wanted and needed to eat healthier but finding food that satisfied their cravings was a search that was coming up empty.
When Antojos closed at the tail end of 2023, it left a void in Norwalk as it pertains to Colombian fast food. Yeah, you know what I’m talking about; those humongous hamburgers, those loaded hot dogs, and massive orders of fries topped with every ingredient imaginable. Seemingly appearing out of thin air to answer those prayers was La Colombina Burger, that unbeknownst to me (and I’m sure a bunch of you) opened last July very under the radar, in a little strip of stores, in a parking lot I hadn’t pulled into since Tony’s Pet Shop was there all those years ago. The Tony’s shout is for the Norwalk heads. IYKYK.
Swing by the Norwalk Town Green on any given day, and you’ll see at least one food truck parked out there. If you meandered over there this summer, you may have noticed a silver trailer that’s about as big as your smallest clothes closet. It’s also where you’ll find Darlene and John Banks slinging Jamaican…hot dogs and burgers?!
Call it a "bloody beer," and I will have you flensed. An associate from Oklahoma calls them that, and his entire recipe consists of V8 and Gas Station Lite, like some sort of godless swine. I call it a michelada when I drink them, and you should, too. This sounds prescriptive, and it's intended to, because it's best to be forewarned and forearmed when we encounter a new specie.
I have long been a fan of the bloody mary - in fact, I credit her with saving my life many a time during the Great Patriotic Keg Wars of my early 20s, but 30 was stealing up on me like Trotsky's assassin before I was swept up in the red coup of the michelada, and I've been a member of the party ever since, comrade.
Mistakes were made along the way, of course. 'This is a recovery drink,' I remember thinking. 'A sort of tremens-drip for the drinking class. It stands to reason that the more vitamins, minerals and other assorted Earth-stuffs, the better, yes? V8 is packed with many of the vegetables I hate, ergo it's bound to be good for me/this drink.' Ice, hot sauce, salt, pepper and beer went into the glass with the red fluid from the colorful bottle, and the results more successful than The Great Leap Forward only in that no one actually died. It was like drinking carrot juice from a storm drain.
This just in. Chef Emily Mingrone of Tavern On State, Provisions on State, and her most recent addition, Fair Haven Oyster Co, is off on another exciting culinary adventure. After winning “CT’s Restaurant Of The Year” in 2022, Mingrone is expanding her New Haven footprint and launching a NEW FOOD TRUCK, this weekend, Friday, September 1st. The truck’s name is “The Pearl At Fair Haven Oyster Co.” and you can find it just next to her restaurant, Fair Haven Oyster Co., in the marina picnic area. The Pearl will be open Fridays-Sundays, noon to 7pm in the season, and depending on demand, Mingrone may keep the party going all year long.
“A lot of the food we serve is inspired by being a kid,” says Fryborg owner Jonathan Gibbons. “In Milford, an older guy in his 80s comes in regularly and he remarked that my food is like when he was a kid. That made me feel really good. The food, the video game table, the bubble hockey, it’s all about nostalgia.”
For many, me included, “nostalgia” is the right work to describe Fryborg.
The beloved New Canaan burger joint, Press Burger, has opened its second location in Wilton with even more delicious and creative eats. Co-owners Seth Leifer and John Gallagher set out to continue Press Burger’s mission as a delicious and fresh form of fast food, while expanding beyond its classic burgers and fries with new sauces, fried chicken sandwiches, the carrot dog (you’d be surprised how good it tastes), and more. As Leifer puts it, Press Burger is the Cava, Sweetgreen, or Chipotle of the burger world, a type of “cleaner, finer, fast casual.”
Despite expert credibility having recently taken several cannonballs below the waterline, and 60-degree sweater weather remaining in abundance,summer - they tell us - has officially arrived. The days are near their longest, and the months start with “J”, so we must grudgingly accede they have a point. This time each year, in a migration as timeless and majestic as the great herds of the Serengeti - Nutmeggers can be seen dragging our coolers to beaches and backyards. What are we drinking? Hard seltzer! NO! I mean, yes, but also: shut up.
We are drinking:
Very cold.
Easy drinking.
Usually Mexican lager. Corona, Pacifico, Modelo, ET C.
Why do we drink these? Because 1&2, but also... it’s what we’ve always done. Why are you thinking about this?
BECAUSE I’ve been noticing Connecticut brewers have been trying out the style in increasing numbers, they are delicious, and more people should know, which has always been the entire point of this column.
Hot dogs have been around in various shapes and sizes for centuries, some say dating back to 700 BC; today they are a staple at Fourth of July and church BBQs and grabbing a red hot at Yankee Stadium and Shea Stadium was always my go-to food. Natural casing, foot-long, knockwurst, beef, pork, chicken, veggie, tofu, cheese conies, they have been a part of the American culinary scene since forever. There is something special about the salty-spicy combo, the ease of eating, the number of toppings that make them even better…sometimes they are the canvas, sometimes they are the art.
Finding a great and fun hot dog in CT has been an adventure, so when I read that Gooseboro Drive-In in Bantam was awarded the best hot dog at the Litchfield Fair, it definitely hit my radar.
Anyone who's ever hit happy hour and subsequently remembered they hadn't eaten dinner while staring into a beer at another location sometime around midnight can probably feel the pain of the next morning right now, as you're reading this. Remember that? Well, let's not let that happen again, or allow ourselves to slap late night drive-thru - the FlexTape of Shame - over the leaky bucket of our decisions.
What we need is food with our beers, whether we're adding plates to pitchers and pints at the taproom, or exploring flavor combinations at home. Inspiration struck while I was at my first beer pairing dinner in over two years at The Little Pub in Fairfield, hosted by Greg Radawich, director of brewing operations at New England Brewing Company in Woodbridge. I'll get into what you can have from the brewery and pub, plus a few more ideas to serve as springboards for your own dives into brews and foods.
And if you missed this beer dinner, Little Pub will be hosting another beer pairing dinner with Fat Orange Cat brewery at Little Pub, Fairfield on Tuesday, March 1.
If you’re a hot dog connoisseur in Fairfield County, you surely remember the legendary roadside eats at Swanky Franks. It’s safe to say that a lot of us still miss the ripper style dogs, THAT CHILI, and the fresh cut skin-on fries that were served to you in a plentiful heap.
Things like that have a way of coming back. Well, almost.
For Bobby Manere Jr. there is a full circle kind of feeling at Dogtown, located in a half commercial, half residential area off of a busy main road in Milford.
If Manere’s last name sounds familiar, it should. His father, Robert Manere Sr., was the fourth owner of Swanky Franks from the late 1980s until the later 2000s. He might be the Swanky Franks head hot dog honcho that a younger generation remembers the most.
Picture this: you're at the beach tanning when all of a sudden you hear that dreaded sound of your stomach rumbling. But you aren’t in the mood for the classic hot dog or chicken tenders that are usually served at a beach. You want something a little more gourmet, like a lobster roll or a farm-fresh salad. Have no fear! Hook’d on the Sound can provide you just that and is located only a few feet away from your towel.
Steaming hot, wrapped in a bun, the hot dog, frankfurter, red hot, tube steak, wiener, frank, weenie, dirty water dog, dachshund, all relate to spiced pork or beef stuffed inside a casing, then fried, grilled, smoked, boiled, steamed, and placed in a long roll, topped with numerous toppings and devoured. They are so popular that Spotify offers over 300 songs about hot dogs, from Elvis to Zeppelin, Joey Chestnut is a household name for eating 75 hot dogs in 10 minutes, and outrageous antics of flamboyant athletes are called “hot-dogging.”
One of life's principle joys is an unexpected bulldog. There you are, mind preoccupied and steps ahead of whatever you should be paying attention to in the moment you're actually living, and boom: giant smiley meatball of joy out of nowhere. How could that not improve any day? Last September, in the Before Times, I went to a Connecticut farm to find out about hop growing, and discovered a newborn brewery instead. At the time, Stewards Of The Land in Northford wasn't finished, not quite ready yet for the outside world. So now, just as the eyes of the world are cautiously blinking open again, I returned to sit on the farm brewery's patio and, yes, there was a bulldog.
I'm not just making an allegory here: Guinness (that's the name he came with, give head brewery Alex DeFrancesco more credit for creativity than that), was cooling off on the stone patio, set with chairs outside the New England tavern style brewery, above a field of sprouting row crops - the hillside and lawns swaying here and there with bluish stalks of heirloom rye. I squatted down and scruffled Guinness' huge head behind his ears. He had it right. This is a place to stretch out and relax.
The bar where my initials were once carefully poured into the foam crown of a Guinness every time I called, with a place setting waiting both in case I wanted a snack, and to save my favorite spot, is gone forever. It was my first local, a place close by where reliably stopping in and not causing too much trouble develops into an earned mutual welcoming. The place feels like a friend's living room - you know where to sit, they know what you like, and everyone slips easily back into the conversation you shared last time you stopped in. The whole experience, whether as a relief from the day, the glow of alcohol, whatever brought you back through the doors - it just feels warm. Like I said at the start, it's gone now. The place I mention hasn't been open for years, but what about your place? What about so many of these shared environments whose doors we'll never walk through again? What will it be like at the old regular tables and spots we used to take up now the ones who lived through America's epidemic experience may reopen? "Everything's changed," they tell us - but can anything be the same?
The homemade ice cream, butter lathered lobster rolls, and topping loaded hot dogs at Heibeck’s Stand all made their season debut a few weeks late, but the popular Route 7 roadside gem is back in action.
The delay in their opening is due to the obvious COVID-19 climate. Like many restaurants, Heibeck’s took the extra time to work out how to open as a takeout-only model with online or call ahead ordering and to put even more sanitation measures in place. “We definitely took a step back in our opening to make sure we were ready,” says manager Rachel Williams. “We love our customers, and our main concern was to make sure they’re safe and comfortable.”
Williams also mentioned that Heibeck’s took additional time to properly mark where walk-up traffic should flow and social distancing markers once in line at the windows to help ensure customer safety. Entrance, for now, is through the parking lot in back, then let the arrows and signs guide you from there.
To Heibeck’s regulars, noticeably absent will be their charming, pet friendly, BYOB dining patio that is usually decked out with tables, chairs, flowers, greenery, and string lights. Where folks would normally go to kick back and devour a cup of Deep Purple Cow or Trash Can ice cream, is now mostly empty. “It was sad not putting out the furniture and plants,” says co-owner Barbara Heibeck, who owns the stand with her son, Skylar Smith. “It felt different.”
Beer: it's not just for beer drinkers anymore. Seriously. New or casual drinkers can steer themselves safely away from anything resembling what would have been considered an actual beer even five or six years ago, and still be paralyzed with overwhelming options. Wine drinker? There's a chance I've already converted you through the deft application of a gose made with grapes, or a raspberry lambic. Are most beers too: bland/malty/hoppy/bitter, or sour for you? No problem! Because brewers can load your pint with so much lactose they call it a milkshake, and you can drink actual donuts. That's between you and your pancreas.
Brut IPAs - the actual champagne of beers - are a very new, entirely American style. They're sweet and dry, beginning to show up all over the place, and I thought this week I'd do an explainer and review a few brewers' early efforts. Drinkers of the bubbly, drinkers of the murky, and Connecticut craft beer fans in general: you may just be about to have a new summer fling.
