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Ginkgo in Fairfield: Serving Authentic Sichuan Cuisine for Nearly 10 Years

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Andrew Dominick

It’s midday on a Thursday. I’m at Ginkgo Sichuan Cuisine and I’m set to interview co-owner Yingying Yan over a handful of her restaurant’s dishes. And out they all come. I can see and I can certainly smell the dry red chilies before they hit the table. I go straight for the handmade dumplings and give it a stir do the spicy reddish orange oil and freshly diced garlic coats each little pork filled pocket. I pop one in my mouth, then immediately take a forkful of crispy edged cumin beef. I cough a few times and probably turned a few shades of red as I felt my temperature rise. This, by the way, isn’t a bad thing. Yan’s husband, and co-owner, Roger Yen, tells me to skip the water. He brings over an ice-cold bottle of Tsingtao, a light, refreshing rice lager that calmed the heat, the numbness in my tongue, and my slight cough that was a result of simply underestimating the heat level.


Chef Mogan Anthony + Seleste Tan Open Barnoodle in Greenwich: Handrolls, Noodles + Small Plates

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Andrew Dominick

At the beginning of 2025, Greenwich locals and the husband-and-wife team of Mogan Anthony and Seleste Tan opened the doors to La Bistro in Cos Cob. Just over a year later, a mile-and-a-half north on the same street, across the Cos Cob line into Riverside, they’re at it again. And this time around, they’re leaning on their Southeast Asian culture for inspiration at Barnoodle.


Bangkok Republic in Wilton: Top Notch Thai Food Hidden in Plain Sight on Route 7

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Andrew Dominick

Raise your hand if you’ve driven past a strip mall, plaza, a couple of storefronts clustered together, or whatever you call it, countless times without giving it any thought. We’re all guilty of this. In this case, we’re talking about a Thai restaurant that’s located on Route 7 that so many of us drive up and down so many times per week. And unless you’re a Wilton local who has obviously been gatekeeping this hidden-in-plain-sight gem, you may not even know it’s there, despite the fact that Bangkok Republic has been open for almost a decade.


My Favorite Dish: Kawa Ni’s Chicken Katsu Parm w/Kimchi Vodka Sauce

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Andrew Dominick

When Kawa Ni messes around with fusion, they don’t miss. Over three years ago, at one of the friends and family previews of Kawa Ni’s expansion into the space next door, I remember asking chef-owner Bill Taibe which newish dishes I should try in addition to my usual pork + garlic ramen, karaage don, spicy lamb dan dan, and pork Szechuan dumplings. His reply: “I gotta tell ya, one of my favorites, and a sleeper on this menu, is the kimchi carbonara.” In the present, Kawa Ni’s carbonara is no longer a sleeper. Also in the present, and another foray into Italian–Asian mashups, is their chicken katsu parmigiana.