My Favorite Dish: Fair Haven Oyster Company's Skate

Located overlooking the scenic Quinnipiac River in the northeast section of New Haven, Fair Haven Oyster Company offers a tranquil escape with a focus on fresh, locally inspired cuisine. On a beautiful summer evening, I was fortunate enough to snag an outdoor table right on the rail. With the river gently flowing beside us, two of us enjoyed a relaxing meal centered around fresh ingredients and thoughtfully prepared seafood.

Fair Haven Oyster Company is housed in a modest wooden structure that does not give justice to the dining experience. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who escorted us to the back patio. Other seating options include reservable bar seats and tables along the barn-boarded interior walls that give the space a rustic, casual charm. Fortunately for us, we were headed out to the porch, which turned out to be the perfect setting for a relaxed and memorable summer evening.

 The menu reflected the bounty of the season, with a strong emphasis on fish and seafood. Visiting in mid-July, it included a generous selection of fresh salads and seafood preparations, all highlighting the kitchen’s commitment to high-quality ingredients and simplicity

When I spotted skate on the menu, a small smile tugged at the corners of my lips. I first encountered this delicate fish more than twenty years ago at a restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts and it quickly earned a place among my favorites. Since then, I’ve been drawn to it whenever it appears on a menu. Whether served with or without the cartilage that separates its two fillets, skate remains a dish I find nearly impossible to resist.

FHOC prepared their version fully intact, pan-seared and served with capers, Meyer lemon, tomato preserves, and brown butter. The result was nothing short of spectacular. Although the server offered to debone it, I declined, part of the eating pleasure of eating skate is carefully removing the meat immediately prior to each bite. The piece was cooked to perfection, with the flesh remaining moist and rich, while the quick pan-sear added a delightful contrast in texture. Each element on the plate contributed beautifully, the Meyer lemon sauce was bright and zesty, the capers brought just the right hint of saltiness, and the sun-dried tomatos delivered a delightful, concentrated burst of flavor. Altogether, it was a flawlessly executed dish, an easy 10.

For those not as adventurous, I also recommend the grilled Dorade, served with Gigante beans, artichoke, and preserved lemon, another standout. The whole fish arrived marked with symmetric cross-hatched grill lines. After removing the head and tail, the first bite confirmed that the preparation was as great as the presentation. We were pleasantly surprised that the fish was deboned (this was a positive versus my desire to de-bone my Skate), and the first bite delivered a perfect balance of crispy skin and tender, moist flesh. The Dorade was nestled atop a smooth Gigante bean purée, with additional whole beans layered over the fish for added texture. To complete the presentation, the kitchen added a few deep-fried artichoke halves, which brought both visual appeal and a satisfying crunch. It was easily one of the best preparations of Dorade we’ve ever had, another easy 10.

Service was as good as the entrees, flawless, unobtrusive and present when required.

Fair Haven Oyster Company strikes a rare balance, an unfussy environment within friendly surroundings, a thoughtful menu, and a laid-back, yet attentive service. It is a wonderful way to spend an evening.

307 Front St, New Haven, CT 06513

(203) 745-5741

https://www.fairhavenoysterco.com/