Hachiroku Owners Open Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas in East Rock, New Haven

Stephanie Webster

Fans of Hachiroku Shokudo & Sake bar, which quietly opened in New Haven 2022, will be excited to hear that this team has expanded their portfolio of outstanding Japanese eateries with a NEW restaurant in the East Rock neighborhood of New Haven. The new spot is called Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas, and much like the original, you will not find a sign outside….ya just have to know. Hachiroku Handroll Bar features a few highlights from Hachiroku Shokudo & Sake bar, but while the OG delivers a traditional izakaya menu with a few uber-fresh cuts of sushi, the new spot leans in on expertly executed, positively mouthwatering handrolls. And make no mistake, while the flavor profiles you will find here are not strictly “traditional,” the dining room looks and feels like a traditional sushi bar. With roughly 16 seats highlighting the artists/ sushi chefs in the center, dining here exudes the austere reverence that these handrolls deserve.

Owners Yuta Kamori and his wife Sanae, along with partners Gen Hashimoto and Hiroyuki Fuji Yuta started several years ago with Brooklyn Ramen, then branched out to a successful bento box business and Japanese sushi stores tied to the Maruichi grocery establishment throughout CT and Boston. From here they opened Hachiroku Shokudo & Sake bar and now, Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas.

According to owner Yuta Kamori, the concept for his restaurants is simple, “Every item of the menu that is added and or removed is based on daily availability and above all something we enjoy eating!” The fish is some of the freshest and most delicate I’ve eaten…anywhere. And on this note, let’s talk about the menu.

When you are seated in this dining sanctuary, you will notice that the menu hits on roughly 15 Japanese “tapas” items and 20 Temaki (handrolls). Tapas include the salad that made my “Top Eats 2022” list, the Jako Salad, featuring spicy arugula, radish, poached egg, crispy baby anchovy, bonito flakes, nori and a house onion dressing. It’s a full umami bomb situation, and a must order. Trust me.

Sure, they have a beautifully executed Black Cod in Yuku (a la Nobu), and melt in your mouth A5 Wagyu Sushi, but guests will also find deeper cuts including: “Two Bites” (pressed cured Yuzu salmon or Saba Mackerel sushi with kelp wrap), a Snow Crab & Ikura Chawanmushi (a silky smooth steamed egg custard topped with snow crab and Ikura) which is just a straight up wonderful, and the delicate Abalone Ni Awabi (simmered abalone in soy sauce and ginger broth). Straight from the water sashimi is always available based on what’s fresh. If you’re lucky, you’ll sometimes find it house smoked or cured based on Chef’s whims. And by no means leave without trying the Bluefin Tuna Prosciutto-translation: house smoked and dried tuna serves in the style of prosciutto. Just damn. It’s a menu for those who enjoy dining as an exploration, and it showcases completely unique preparations of traditional Japanese ingredients.

On the other side of the menu guests will find the Temaki, and this is where you will really want to spend some time. In two visits I was able to make a relatively large dent in the list, and no roll in this roundup should be ignored, both for unique flavor profiles and the care given to each order (cue the tweezers.)

I’ve never met a Miso cured fish I didn’t like so I started wit the Miso Salmon Oyako, a wonderful combination of miso salmon and cured salmon roe. Let me reiterate that the freshness of the fish procured at Hachiroku ranks as high as some of the Michelin starred sushi spots I’ve frequented. For Uni fans, the Uni & Salmon Roe temaki should not be missed. I went back for seconds on the Soy Cured Yellowtail with Scallion as well as the Madai (red snapper with the very distinctive hint of Shiso). The use of Shiso in several of these handrolls was both surprising and delightful. And make no mistake…there is no soy sauce at the table. Chef seasons each hand roll so there is no need to mess with perfection.

My last roll was the Lobster Roll, a nod to a New England favorite, with succulent buttery chunks of lobster, lemon, say sauce and Butterhead lettuce. Good stuff.

In a well considered partnership, dessert is served c/o another “best in class” spot, Hen & Heifer bakery from Guilford. We sampled both the Chocolate Banana Sesame, savoring the unexpected sesame against the sweeter caramel and fruit, as well as Ginger Creme Brulée. If you can’t make to Guilford this is a great way to experience this top notch bakery.

In short, Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas is officially in the monthly rotation. It is one of a short list of spots in Connecticut where guests can go for truly exceptional sushi, and every visit brings something unique.

Hachiroku Handroll Bar 966 State St, New Haven, CT 06511

Reservations on Resy.