Takeout Chronicles: Joe’s Pizza, bartaco, Cafe Silvium, & Twelve Percent Beer Project

As some Connecticut restaurants begin the slow process of reopening with outdoor dining, you’ll either rush right out, ease back into it, or wait a bit longer when it comes to reintroducing yourself to your favorite eateries based on your level of comfort. Regardless of where you stand, it’s a safe bet that your dining repertoire will still include takeout. 

With that said, and on the heels of James Gribbon’s takeout picks, I’ve got a bunch worth checking out.

At the very beginning of quarantine, one of my first orders came from an oldie. Joe’s Pizza has been open since 1967, almost two decades before I was born. I’ve actually had my entire life to try it, but here I am in 2020, a Joe’s newbie. 

Your best bet for Joe’s right now is to pick it up or have it delivered via the Slice app. I’ve since ordered Joe’s a few times because of their variety of pizza styles. Joe’s is viewed by some of my restaurant industry peers as one of, if not the best New York style in these here parts. I don’t disagree! It’s cooked through, not at all doughy, and it’s not as heavy as others I’ve had. Get the “Hot Capi,” a margherita with hot capicola, pepperoni, and Mike’s Hot Honey for a winning combination of meaty, salty, and sweet. 

Since my first Joe’s experience, I have tried three other styles they offer. The Brooklyn Sicilian (add pepperoni for that whole roni cup pork oil well effect) is a softer, more airy kind of deal, while the Detroit style is a crispier (because of the cheddar cheese baked into the crust), buttery, ultimately heavier pie. My favorite? The grandma. It’s thinner, lighter, and if you’re a burrata fan, add that for literal globs of fresh cheese on top. 

I may be a Joe’s newbie but I promise to earn “regular” status soon enough. 

Before I get to my second takeout choice, there’s a value pick I had to throw in, and it’s bartaco’s taco kit. Sixteen tacos, two different meat fillings, all the fixings, chips, a few different salsas, and three sides for $39.50 easily feeds three starving adults or 4-5 snackers. For tastiness and value, this DIY meal is worth this brief shout-out.

That brings us to Cafe Silvium. When the slicker-than-your-average red sauce joint announced on social media that they planned to reopen for takeout, they likely wrecked the Instagram algorithm. People love that place. I’m one of those people. Oh, and if you thought getting a reservation on a busy Friday or Saturday night was tough, try getting through on their one phone line. You might have to team up with friends in hopes of finally hearing a ringing sound over a busy signal, but it’ll be worth it when you hear a voice. FYI: they open the phone lines at 2:30 p.m. even though food pickups don’t start until 5.

Our order resulted in a feast of Cafe Silvium’s greatest hits: baseball sized meatballs with whipped ricotta on top of polenta, rigatoni gnact gnact (prosciutto, pancetta, sausage in vodka sauce), creamy burrata with thin-sliced prosciutto, fresh pappardelle with boar sausage, and a hunk of fall-off-the-bone pork osso buco with saffron risotto. 

Whew! That was a mouthful, but come on, that’s the only way to properly do Cafe Silvium. And best believe we did them proud with at-home Silvium wine pours. If you know, you know. 

But lastly…BEER. 

I’d be lying if I said I don’t miss being at a restaurant on a night where the dining room is bustling, but there’s something I miss just a touch more. Breweries. The tours, trying an array of beers, greasy bites at food trucks, table games played amongst friends, and getting libations to-go are so dearly missed. Many breweries have pivoted to offering takeaway beer only, while others have added local delivery. I’d suggest checking with your favorite brewery to see if you can get a drop on your porch. 

One that delivers to all of Connecticut is the Twelve Percent Beer Project in North Haven. Twelve Percent provides a brew lab for brewers that may not have a physical brewery, and helps them can, label, and distribute it. They’re big into collaborations, too. What’s cool is, for a $45 minimum they’ll bring quality beer to you. 

A few I included in my order were a crushable Czech-inspired lager by Marlowe Artisanal Ales and Midnight Snack #2 by Abomination Brewing Company, a chocolate cake stout that rings in at a whopping, but dangerously smooth 13.2% ABV. It’s thick (like THICCC), on the sweeter side, and plays as if you’re drinking liquid fudge. Props to them for what I think is the best dessert stout that was brewed in Connecticut. 

Post-quarantine, I hope beer delivery and the easing up of restrictions on takeout drinks will stick around. Connecticut may never be reminiscent of the French Quarter with its adult sippy cups and street music, but any loosening of to-go booze laws is better than nothing at all.