Jeff Taibe had a big 2023. Not only did Taibe relocate his six-year Bethel restaurant, Taproot, to South Norwalk, he received much deserved recognition at December’s edition of the CRAzies Awards in the form of a “Best Restaurant Fairfield County” win.
A few days after I interviewed owner and bartender, Alan Heron of the Flying Scotsman, he posted one of the portraits I captured of him on Instagram along with the caption, “Mediocre service guaranteed.”
Go up or down Bridgeport’s North Avenue roughly a mile or so before or after the Fairfield town line and you’ll notice a neon blue awning with an emoji-like sandwich logo paired with the words “The Torta Shop” printed on it.
What’s not new, however, are the owners. Mariella Garcia and her husband Jose Santiago previously owned the bodega since 2017. Around a year and a half ago, the couple decided to flip the concept into something different.
“We’re originally from Oaxaca, then we came to Norwalk, and my husband and I moved to Bridgeport in 2016,” Garcia says. “In 2017 we got the grocery store and thought about switching it up over the years and wanted to make a bigger change. We wanted to bring this to Bridgeport. And there are a lot of Mexican restaurants here, but we wanted to focus on tortas, Mexican sandwiches. Other places do it, but we want to be known as a tortarilla.”
No outside signage. No phone number. No problem.
Aside from a fair number of whiny complaints (you know who you are), Dan Kardos’ newly opened restaurant, Café Melba, is doing just fine.
I can count on one finger how many times I’ve had a smoked cheeseburger in our general area.
The smoked burger is seemingly elusive. My first came in 2019, in Irvington, at a BBQ joint that’s no longer there. I’m not saying it’s impossible to find one, I’m just saying it’s rare—that’s an on-purpose meat pun.
In Connecticut, two spots where you absolutely can find a smoky, beefy, beast of a burger, are Hoodoo Brown BBQ and Hindsight Barbecue that were both recently named in terrific piece on Texas Monthly (link HERE) that you absolutely should read.
For several months, as in, almost all of 2023, a lot of Fairfield County restaurant buzz centered around Jacob Hadjigeorgis and his pickles.
Like Batman running to help the Gotham City Police Department when he sees the Bat-Signal in the night sky, CTbites was summoned in a similar fashion. Only we spotted our Bat-Signal across the street from Aitoro Appliance in Norwalk, in the form of a neon sign that read: “Massimo.” I hadn’t been that far up Westport Avenue in a while, so I turned to Steph and said, “Hey, hey. What’s this place? Heard of it?”
“Ohhh! Yeah! Fritz Knipschildt told me about it! He loves it!” was her reply.
Ask Forrest Pasternack about being back in Ridgefield and he’ll tell you that “there’s nothing quite like home.”
Already well traveled in this area and in New York as a renowned chef at several acclaimed restaurant, Pasternack may be best known to locals from his five-years when he headed up the kitchen at the O.G. farm-to-table restaurant Bailey’s Backyard from 2013 – 2018.
After a handful of years away, Pasternack is back!
But where’s he been all this time?
Well, a bunch of places and one big one at the same time.
Gabagool Wine Bar is the newest incarnation of the former Fairfield favorite, Toto Restaurant, which shut its doors suddenly and unexpectedly about a year and a half ago. I worried that, tragically, this too had succumbed to the pandemic, but alas – and thankfully, such was not the case.
The restaurant that occupied the main level in the red building on Reef Road sat vacant and dark for over a year. This was all due to massive flood caused by a ruptured pipe. With water everywhere, the restaurant’s interior needed to be completely gutted and rebuilt. Thankfully for us restauranteur and owner Antonio Ninivaggi does as only Antonio does… He turned his lemons into limoncello, and thus Gabagool Wine Bar was born.
There’s a new resident at The Waypointe and they’re likely the only ones allowed to smoke indoors.
But this “new neighbor” doesn’t occupy an apartment, they took over the Merwin Street space that was created for Bobby Q’s Cue & Co. that was vacant since 2021 after owner Bob LeRose sadly passed away.
Soul.
That’s the word Adrian Hurtado uses when he describes the food he serves at his newly opened restaurant in Norwalk that’s an extension of his food truck, Taco Guy.
“I have chicken tinga on the menu because it runs in my family, going back to my great-great grandparents,” he says. “When you’re eating here, you’re getting my culture, my family tradition, and a piece of what’s in my soul.”
But for Hurtado, who grew up in the hospitality industry learning the ropes at the popular Super Taqueria Las Salsas in Bridgeport that’s owned by his father, he chose to not be a taquero as an adult.
Instead, he started making pizzas at Bar Sugo in Norwalk before hopping behind the bar as a bar back.
You’ve just sat down at the newly opened Greer Southern Table in Norwalk. You either order a refreshing, fruity, ice cold cocktail, or you’re like me and despite it being 90 degrees, you still order an old fashioned. You scan the menu. You probably ponder over a few tasty dishes to share with your dining companions.
“A lot of the food we serve is inspired by being a kid,” says Fryborg owner Jonathan Gibbons. “In Milford, an older guy in his 80s comes in regularly and he remarked that my food is like when he was a kid. That made me feel really good. The food, the video game table, the bubble hockey, it’s all about nostalgia.”
For many, me included, “nostalgia” is the right work to describe Fryborg.
Ridgefield’s West Lane is about to look a whole lot different after the transformation of Bernard’s Restaurant and Sarah’s Wine Bar to The Benjamin, brought to you by a trio of well-known Norwalk restaurateurs in Dave Studwell and Rob Moss of Washington Prime and B.J. Lawless of BJ Ryan’s Restaurant Group.
Long View Ciderhouse is excited to announce the opening of their new hard cider bottle shop at the Shuttle Meadow location of Rogers Orchards. Located at 336 Long Bottom Rd in Southington, Connecticut, the bottle shop offers four unique hard ciders made from apples grown on the farm, a variety of styles and flavors and more releases planned for this summer.
Long View Ciderhouse is a family-owned and operated business and a “branch” of Rogers Orchards, an 8 generation family farm dating back to 1809. Jeff Rogers, the head cider maker, works directly with his brother and brother-in-law Peter Rogers and Greg Parzych, co-presidents of the farm. Passionate about creating high-quality, delicious hard cider, Long View Ciderhouse combines traditional cider-making techniques with modern methods to create ciders that appeal to a variety of tastes. Peter and Greg took over the farm from John Rogers in 2006 and were joined by Jeff in 2021.
Brasserie St. Germain opened quietly though to much fanfare this past week. Named after St Germain des Pres, the quaint Parisian neighborhood, in the 6th arrondissement. Owners Frank Bonnaudet and Virginie Kharouby are no strangers to the Ridgefield restaurant scene. After nearly 10 years, the owners of the former Sucre Sale decided to shut down the smaller, casual eatery to make way for this newer, slightly more formal concept with its larger menu and more expansive dining areas.
Brasserie St. Germain is an ode to Paris, from the décor – with hand-painted murals in the main dining and bar area that are bright and lively, to the more formal, high end dining area in the back. The restaurant seats between 75-80 people, and judging by what we saw, the space will fill very quickly. Former Sucre Sale diners have been eagerly anticipating this opening. The cozy ambiance suggests a relaxed dining experience, diners will not be rushed.
If you don’t know about Chef Jin yet, you owe it to your taste buds to step into one of his now numerous restaurants across Connecticut. Perhaps you are familiar with Tomo 68 in Naugatuck or Natural Kitchen in Milford – and most recently, Ramen & Bao in Oxford. Those are all thanks to Chef Jin, and now you can check out Ji Bei Chuan in Orange, which has its official grand opening on May 9th.
Ji Bei Chuan is a widely popular dining establishment in China, with over 400 locations overseas. Here in the United States, there are only 40, with this Orange location the first in the state. As you step inside, your eyes are immediately drawn to its noodle bar: a beautiful dark-stained natural wood countertop where guests can dive head-first into one of the many noodle or soup dishes on the menu.
If you want authentic Israeli food, go to Israel.
Or Brooklyn.
Soon though, dishes like shakshuka (poached eggs in a simmering tomato sauce with vegetables and spices) and deep-fried matzo stuffed with cheese will be available in Westport.
On, ironically, Church Lane, in Westport.
The Blondinit will fill the space vacated this winter by Manna Toast. It’s the first restaurant venture for Solomon and Inda Sade, who own several other businesses already. Her background is in retail and fashion.
But this is their passion project. They love food and entertaining. And they’re putting their money where their, um, mouths are: They’re funding it themselves.
While not Israeli, the Sades have strong ties there. Solomon’s parents were born in Israel. His father had 10 siblings, his mother, 8.
Growing up on Long Island, his family visited there every summer. More recently, he and his wife honeymooned in Israel.
When COVID struck, they and their 1-year-old left New York for their second home in the Poconos. But after 6 months of boredom — “the event of the day was standing outside Walmart with rubber gloves,” Solomon recalls — they moved to suburban New Jersey.
The Blondinit’s meats, pitas, pickled goods and beers will all be “authentic” from Brooklyn.
It will be delivered fresh daily. The Sades will not use freezers or microwaves. All leftover food will be donated to pantries and food rescue organizations.
The new Goodfellas is a knockout. At a soft opening for family and friends on April 19, Chef Gerry Iannaccone and partner Andrea Coppola showed off the dramatically reimagined and rebranded restaurant, now known as Encore by Goodfellas. New Haveners have been watching as the building at State and Trumbull slowly shifted shape; what was once an open-air patio on the roof became capped and clad, creating a sudden second floor. New signage went up, casting a golden neon glow. But none of us could have fathomed what was going on inside the building.
