hef David Teyf is poised for his closeup. Two years after unveiling his elevated kosher delicatessen, Greenwich & Delancey in Cos Cob, Teyf is confident that he has perfected his vision. "I want to be the first place to take this type of food to a Michelin level," he declares with determination. Drawing on his classical culinary training from Le Cordon Bleu Paris, he seamlessly applies haute cuisine techniques to Eastern European Jewish classics with standout results, like his meticulously crafted pastrami (carved tableside with the reverence normally accorded to prime rib), pillowy pelmeni (chicken dumplings), and the perfect bowl of matzo ball soup.
Roll into the former Davinci’s Pizza (or Cosmos if we take it back to 1985) at 60 Connecticut Avenue, and it’s a way different vibe than it used to be.
Quirky artificial intelligence cartoons, featuring pizza, are pasted in the entryway. Sawed off cookbook bindings are the art on the walls. A black and white photo of Marco Pierre White stares at you if you glance to your right.
Oyster Club in Mystic, its alter ego concept, Treehouse, and their sister cocktail and bites bar, The Port of Call, aren’t only popular in Connecticut, but they’ve received some serious national coverage, including a 2023 James Beard nomination for chef Renee Touponce.
Part of the restaurant group’s stellar squad is pastry chef Jessica Spivey, who just received a nod of her own as she was nominated for Best Pastry Chef by the Connecticut Restaurant Association for its annual CRAzies Awards.
We recently had the pleasure of visiting Siren Restobar in Old Greenwich Connecticut. Owner Anshu Vidyarthi opened this new Mediterranean-inspired eatery in August. No stranger to the restaurant world, Vidyarthi is also the co-owner of Le Penguin and Le Fat Poodle with business partner Antoine Blech. Siren is his first solo project.
The tapas restaurant takes on flavors from throughout the Mediterranean region, and Siren’s culinary range extends to include influences from Syria, Turkey, Sardinia, Morocco, and Lebanon to name just a few.
Vidyarthi’s desire with Siren was to create serious food but whimsically. He doesn’t take himself too seriously and would prefer that you didn’t either. Siren serves the type of food that people who are well-fed and well-travelled are looking for. The authenticity of every dish is evident in every mouthful, simple ingredients that create a depth of flavor. One needn’t overcomplicate things.
If not for her belief of setting “unrealistic goals,” Sandra Pittman’s namesake restaurant, Sandra’s Next Generation, may not have ever been born in the first place.
Now in over 34 years with no signs of slowing down as evidenced by our Thanksgiving week visit where we witnessed the crew rapidly filling catering orders and making so much cornbread stuffing and baking hundreds of homemade pies it would blow your mind.
And even with an already booming takeout business (the restaurant is mostly takeout, but there’s a patio when the weather is nicer), Pittman’s still finds time to put the SOUL in soul food by consistently giving back to the New Haven community and all its charitable causes.
Wait. Did I say 34 years? To tell the origin story of Sandra’s, we have to take it even further back to New Haven’s Edgewood neighborhood where Pittman, whose name back then was Harris, started cooking in the first place.
As a judge for each of the first two years of SoNo1420’s Blaze Whiskey Competition—that’s four rounds total, by the way—one of the best drinks I tasted came from a bartender I hadn’t heard of before, but from a place I’ve not only been to, but wrote about in the past.
Olivia Olsen is the head bartender behind the stick at ATC South Street, Carlos Perez’s hip taqueria in Litchfield.
In 2018 I headed to Cos Cob to meet Frederico Perandin and his wife Anissa Nouhi at the location of their brand new restaurant, Il Pastificio, adored by all in the Greenwich area.
Born and raised in Padova, Italy, the founder of a successful Italian advertising agency, Federico Perandin moved to Greenwich in 2016 where he immediately fell in love with the town, the scenery and the lively international community.
In 2022 Perandin and Nouhi found a second home for Il Pastificio in Westport. Initially it was to serve as a market of sorts with its take out menu, but that changed when, after closing for a month over the summer for some light construction, a new sit-down eatery was born. The new restaurant is best described as rustic chic. Its elevated casual atmosphere offers guests a comfortable setting dressed in pale yellows and woods in which they can linger comfortably over Frederico’s authentic recipes, steeped in tradition alongside a healthy serving of Prosecco and conversation.
When looking for a place that’s special The Cottage often tops the list of recommendations with its focus on excellence and elevated dishes that that are creative, stunning and delicious. The Cottage in Westport has been a staple of the restaurant scene since its inception in 2015. In 2022 Brian Lewis opened a second location in Greenwich and it has taken the restaurant scene there by storm. While the vibe in Greenwich is different with a more casual setting, it offers something that Westport doesn’t: lunch. And the lunch scene in Greenwich is bustling. The lunchtime menu is streamlined but not at all limited. In fact it’s really quite varied considering its size, featuring dishes that appeal to a wide range of tastes and diets.
Swing by the Norwalk Town Green on any given day, and you’ll see at least one food truck parked out there. If you meandered over there this summer, you may have noticed a silver trailer that’s about as big as your smallest clothes closet. It’s also where you’ll find Darlene and John Banks slinging Jamaican…hot dogs and burgers?!
Like Batman running to help the Gotham City Police Department when he sees the Bat-Signal in the night sky, CTbites was summoned in a similar fashion. Only we spotted our Bat-Signal across the street from Aitoro Appliance in Norwalk, in the form of a neon sign that read: “Massimo.” I hadn’t been that far up Westport Avenue in a while, so I turned to Steph and said, “Hey, hey. What’s this place? Heard of it?”
“Ohhh! Yeah! Fritz Knipschildt told me about it! He loves it!” was her reply.
If you hear the word “tudo” being whispered around Fairfield County, don’t try to decipher what it means without your iPhone’s translate app and “Portuguese (Brazil)” selected.
Don’t actually open your app. I’ll do you the favor.
“Tudo” translated to English means “all” or “everything.”
We’re talking loaded and pressed sandwiches. Two types of smash burgers, a hot dog, a fried chicken sandwich, plus a few sides and a couple of unique (at least to this area) desserts.
Between courses at one of his collaboration special events, Prasad Chirnomula spoke to his full dining room about creating a bond with his fellow Connecticut chefs.
“We’ve been doing this for almost a year now, bringing chefs together,” he says. “The whole point of doing this, is we, as chefs, work our asses off. We’re always back in the kitchen on Saturday nights, Sunday nights, holidays, and everything else. I’ve done my share of work, so I said to myself that I’m gonna enjoy what I did for so many years of my life. I want to create a legacy and a bond with people I recognize and know of. Even if I don’t know someone, I’ll pick up the phone, call them, and say, ‘Hey, buddy! How are you doing? Do you wanna cook together?’ This is the hardest industry to work in and food brings people together.”
Dave Portnoy’s 8.2 score of Grigg Street’s popular sour dough pizza was ehhh…good. Could’ve been higher even by a smidge in my opinion, but anything in the “8s” is a fine rating.
What Dave wasn’t wrong about, though, was scoring Grigg’s cheesesteak a full point higher at a 9.2, and despite being on a major pizza eating and scoring tour, he kept going back for another bite, saying, “This is great. You weren’t fuckin’ around.”
Portnoy dove in with his mouth. I’m about to dive into this haute “Philly” by giving you the culinary facts behind it.
To get the skinny on this appropriately greasy, pungently cheesy, slightly spicy, and beefy sandwich, I caught up with my homie, Grigg Street Pizza co-owner and chef, Matthew Watson.
After he gave the closed-to-the-public dining room a warm welcome on a summer Saturday in August, Damon Sawyer told diners that they were about to experience something rare.
“To my knowledge, this has never been done in Bridgeport before.”
Ask Forrest Pasternack about being back in Ridgefield and he’ll tell you that “there’s nothing quite like home.”
Already well traveled in this area and in New York as a renowned chef at several acclaimed restaurant, Pasternack may be best known to locals from his five-years when he headed up the kitchen at the O.G. farm-to-table restaurant Bailey’s Backyard from 2013 – 2018.
After a handful of years away, Pasternack is back!
But where’s he been all this time?
Well, a bunch of places and one big one at the same time.
Earlier this summer, I was in attendance for one of the friends & family previews of The Benjamin, a new French – American restaurant in Ridgefield that took over the historic property that was once home to Bernard’s and Sarah’s Wine Bar.
Ask any fine dining enthusiast in our state and there’s a strong chance The Essex, owned by chef Colt Taylor, get a glowing recommendation.
While writing this, it’s important to mention I’ve personally never been to The Essex. I simply know its reputation and I’ve heard the raves from my nerdiest food friends. I’ll get up to Old Saybrook soon, but before I check off The Essex, I wanted to meet Taylor at his other concept, Los Charros Cantina, where the menu marriage is a co-existence of authentic Mexican cuisine and L.A. style Mexican.
That’s the word Adrian Hurtado uses when he describes the food he serves at his newly opened restaurant in Norwalk that’s an extension of his food truck, Taco Guy.
“I have chicken tinga on the menu because it runs in my family, going back to my great-great grandparents,” he says. “When you’re eating here, you’re getting my culture, my family tradition, and a piece of what’s in my soul.”
But for Hurtado, who grew up in the hospitality industry learning the ropes at the popular Super Taqueria Las Salsas in Bridgeport that’s owned by his father, he chose to not be a taquero as an adult.
Instead, he started making pizzas at Bar Sugo in Norwalk before hopping behind the bar as a bar back.
