Edwin Mondragon, who co-owns the popular Mexican – Venezuelan mashup Mil Sabores in Bridgeport, credits his mother’s mole as his first taste of the food service industry. He recalls memories of packing mom’s mole in plastic pint containers, filling up his backpack, and selling it, as a family, to customers and stores who sought out the homemade Mexican sauce.
“Mixing records is very similar to balancing tastes if you can imagine that. The lows of a record are like beets to me. That funk, the color of it. It’s a deep sound. You add shallots, it’s like a string session. That was a major component into my transition to being a chef. I knew what balancing sound was. Same thing as ingredients.”
A quote like that one could only come from a former musician, turned chef.
Park City Music Hall opened in 2020 in the Black Rock neighborhood of Bridgeport, after an extensive and beautifully executed renovation of what was once The Acoustic. The new team, the Torres family, also own neighborhood favorite, HarborView Market, situated just around the corner from the venue, where guests are often treated to live music, while enjoying a great casual seasonal breakfast and lunch menu. And let’s not forget their iconic chocolate chip cookies that always make the “best of” lists. The bottom line is, after 30 years in the business, the Torres folks know a thing or two about cooking and hospitality.
When they were offered the opportunity to reinvent and expand the beloved local music hangout, The Acoustic, they jumped in with what seemed like every hand in Black Rock. They created a spot that both increased the audience size and draw for the venue, but also amped up the experience with a new premium craft cocktail program and elevated bar menu, served Thursday through Sunday. Not only has Park City Music Hall become a spot to hear great local and national bands, but they are meeting the needs of hungry bar-goers, families, and food lovers, who come for dinner and their new…wait for it…BRUNCH!
Several months ago, I’m certain my reaction to my dear friend, Katy, mentioning RSVP was something like, “Yeah. That means respond.” If we’re being technical, it’s actually “répondez s'il vous plait” or translated from French to English, “respond, if you please.”
Until Katy finished her thought by telling me that RSVP a French restaurant in Litchfield County that she heard about from one of her friends who’s a bartender. “He raves about it,” she said.
As is always the case, time passed. We kind of forgot about RSVP and barely looked into it for weeks, even months. Only occasionally we’d briefly bring it up, referring it as “THAT French place in Cornwall.”
The people demand tacos, and on October 15th at the Hartford Healthcare Amphitheater in Bridgeport, they shall receive tacos. And also margaritas. Naturally.
The 2022 Connecticut Taco and Margarita Festival at The Amp is available to anyone with $15 and dream to eat tacos, drink margs, see live wrestling from Adrenaline, maybe get their face painted, have access to shop vendors, test their courage at the hot sauce expo, and possibly gain a championship of their own at the taco eating contest.
There’s only one way to begin an article about a restaurant that bears the name RoadRunner, and that’s with very Looney Tunes-like MEEP, MEEP!
Now that we’ve gotten the silliness out of the way—for now—it’s time to dish on this Bridgeport newcomer.
RoadRunner Kitchen + Bar comes to the Black Rock neighborhood from the New Canaan Restaurant Group whose restaurants include Gates in New Canaan and Bruxelles Brasserie in South Norwalk.
RoadRunner, though, is the polar opposite of its sister restaurants in terms of its high energy, casual vibe that suits families as well as adults who simply want to kick it at the bar and crush a few tacos.
But make no mistake, just because you read “tacos” doesn’t mean this is a Mexican joint. It’s New Mexican inspired. No, not like New American, but with Mexican food. We’re talking Santa Fe street eats and easy drinking cocktails with some fun shots thrown into the mix.
If you live in Connecticut, you may recognize Matthew Kirshner. He is the pastry chef, bread baker, and owner of the popular Sandy Hook newcomer, Uncle Matt’s Bakery and Café, but he has spent time baking in our fair state for over 20 years. Kirshner has graced the kitchens of The Roger Sherman Inn, Wave Hill Breads, Bantam Bread Company, and even the Russian Tea Room in NYC. (Side note: Wave Hill and Bantam were just awarded “Best Bread in CT” by Food & Wine). But in June of 2021, after years of being covered in flour in other people’s kitchens, Matt decided it was time to get dirty in his own. Thus, one of Sandy Hook’s most beloved spots, Uncle Matt’s Bakery, was born, serving breakfast, lunch, as well as a wide array of outrageously good pastries, and artisan bread.
Named after the stunning bulbous flower, Allium Eatery’s name is as impeccably cultivated as the plant. The name sets the tone for what’s inside – the décor, the food’s preparation and presentation, every little detail is deliberate, delicate.
When The Schoolhouse at Cannondale shut its doors for the last time at the onset of the pandemic, Chef Michelle Greenfield had some time to think about her next move.
Greenfield describes her dishes as refined American cuisine with French undertones, and that’s exactly what you can expect to find here. (Classically trained in French cuisine, her recent experiences also include the esteemed Bernard’s restaurant in Ridgefield, and, briefly, Jessup Hall in Westport.)
Oui, oui! You did hear correctly. There is a new French bistro on the block in South Norwalk and it goes by the name of Appetit Bistro.
And while it may be new to Connecticut, it may not be new to some of its residents. For six years and counting, Appetit Bistro has been a staple in the village of Port Chester.
For Montoya—who co-owns the restaurant with executive chef Ismael Carias—opening a second location three towns and a city away from the original was a no-brainer because of the fanfare they’ve received from the state that’s a stone’s throw away.
So, with that, they’re bringing all the duck a l'orange, chicken paillard, steak frites, and buttery, garlicky escargot you can handle, right to the center of SoNo.
But the pair’s French theme didn’t simply happen just because.
“He (Ismael) ran the kitchen at Crew in Greenwich,” Montoya says. “And I fell in love with French food when I started working at L’escale back in 2002. It was my first job ever and I loved it. I was there for five years. I ended up managing BLT Steak in White Plains and we opened our desired concept because we knew we would be the only French bistro in Port Chester.”
Their love letter to French food is evident at Appetit. Dishes are sometimes classic. The steak frites certainly is. Hard seared hangar steak, crusty on the outside, cool red on the inside, and tender as all hell—whatever that means to you. It’s served as it should be with a pile of salty shoestring fries and some frizzled onions that await the residuals of what should be a generous pour of the black peppercorn sauce. It’s always my ideal French meal when paired with a bold merlot or a strong Sazerac depending on the night. Most often for me, it’s the Saz.
It’s been a couple of years since I dined at Bistro V on the Ave in Greenwich, and I was thrilled to have been invited for lunch last week.
When Marc and Evelyne Penvenne noticed a for sale sign on the restaurant’s doors they knew that they had to step in and purchase it. The former Versailles was not only a fixture in the Greenwich restaurant scene, but for this couple it had a nostalgic and sentimental meaning. They just couldn’t let the beloved establishment go; the two met there as employees in. The Penvennes had already established themselves as successful restaurateurs. The owners of another perennial favorite, Méli-Mélo, have been feeding guests there, just a couple of blocks away, for over 25 years.
After a slight rebranding, facelift and name shift, Versailles became Bistro V, inspired by their memories of growing up with the classic bistros in France.
The bright white space drips with psychedelic funk as I step into Berlinetta Brewing this summer. A few decades of listening to Georges Collinet's "Afropop Worldwide," I recognize Hugh Masekela and am beaming, not just at that, but at the racks of books (actual paper books!) in reach of tables lit by huge windows. This is a very, very promising start for the downtown Bridgeport brewery.
Step up through the back doorway the tasting room shares with lofts in the newly refurbished building and you'll enter a mini in-brewery record store. Racks of LPs beside a twin turntable setup are for sale or maybe trade if you're feeling barter-y. Co-owner (co-brother), and head brewer Rich Ruggiero has also crafted a tube amp powered reel-to-reel Hi-Fi stereo which can drive the sound system at the click of a toggle switch. Walk in the front door, and you'll see it (and likely him) behind the taproom bar.
La Plage is officially open in Westport. The Inn at Longshore and adjoining restaurant were recently acquired by the Greenwich Hospitality Group, the parent company of the Delamar hotels and restaurants. La Plage is their gift to Westport.
Pronounced plah-je, plage is the French word for beach, and a fitting name when you have a French chef at the helm in the kitchen. Until recently the restaurant was home to Pearl at Longshore which shuttered its doors in January. The interior has undergone a bit of a facelift to embrace its new coastal, casual vibe. Gone is the darker, refined and urban inspired décor which has been replaced with brighter white-washed walls, wicker lampshades and a livelier, beachier ambiance. Queue in the steel brass drums perhaps, but this isn’t your piña colada/Cheeseburger in Paradise type joint. This upscale yet casual eatery is best perhaps described as a beachy chic shack of sorts.
Last month Restaurant L’Ostal’s Chef Jared invited us back to sample the new summer flavors. His menu changes regularly to keep things interesting but remains concise, keeping options to a minimum. There’s enough of a selection to please the palate yet not too much as to overwhelm. This of course is intentional; there’s just one chef in the kitchen and he wants perfection. And perfection is what you will get.
I’d like to say that L’Ostal is for the adventurous, inquisitive, and those familiar with the flavors from the Pyrenees to Provence, or would like to become so. So if Steak Frîtes or French Onion Soup is what you're after, you’ll have to look elsewhere – at least during the warmer months which beckon flavors that are vibrant, green and fresh. What you will find here, at L’Ostal, are some of the best damned Escargots and Oeuf Mayonnaise made with Provencal mustard, pickles, onion and croutons. (I wrote about those from our last visit here.)
It’s past 6 p.m. The Darien Butcher Shop is closed. You cruise by and you see people inside. Some are standing, others are sitting at community tables, and they’re all probably enjoying a glass of vino while they chat, laugh, and catch up.
You can’t walk in for a slab of bacon or a thick, bone-in ribeye, so what’s actually happening?
Four days per week, Peter Crawford transforms his business into The Charles Underground, a French-inspired eatery, and the shop’s after-hours alter ego.
The Charles is where Crawford, a former New England Culinary Institute graduate who has worked with Charlie Palmer, Jean-Georges, Neil Gallagher, and Terrence Brennen, gets to step back into his passion as a classically trained French chef.
Foie gras and dry-aged steak? Sure. Homemade boudin blanc sausage with Robuchon potatoes, and morel mushroom sauce? They have done that, too.
Lending a helping hand in the front of the house is someone you might recognize from his time at Kawa Ni. Anthony Rinaldi acts as a restaurant jack-of-all-trades at The Charles, whether he’s waiting and bussing tables or assisting in the kitchen with cooking and occasionally washing dishes.
Darien finally gets a serious contender in upscale dining, bringing New York City excellence to the area without the city prices. Rooted in history and steeped in tradition, Restaurant L’Ostal celebrates the cuisines of Southern France and its neighboring communities from Catalonia, the Languedoc, Provence and the Alps of the Piemonte region of Italy with precision and accuracy.
Before I share my own culinary experience, you must meet Chef Jared Sippel and General Manager and Sommelier Joe Cracco.
They call it a "slider," but it is not a slider. They call it "Hot Chicken," and it is definitely, exactly, most assuredly, guaranteed and board certified to be both of those things. Good lord. I have never been to Nashville, because I have never been a member of a southern lady's bachelorette party, but I have both been to Bridgeport, and Enjoyed-to-Tolerated many a chicken sandwich. If this is what they're like in central Tennessee, I may take the trip.
Howling Hot Chicken is just past the Bridgeport/Trumbull line down from the mall, and will shortly share a wall with a Milkcraft creamery, whose owners identified a bit of vacuum in the Connecticut landscape which needed filling with Extremely Hot Chicken (or mild, or simply fried with no spice, your call) and created a new franchise. Recognizing a similar void in my lunchtime, I recently swung by.
John Dimarco and his renown Luigi's Bakery, served up Italian sweets on Main street in Bridgeport for 50 years. Two years ago, Dimarco closed the bakery and joined in a partnership with three longtime friends to expand the wholesale side of his business. Luigi’s was famous for its Original Cannoli Pie and their killer tasty cannoli cream. Hence, for the new spot, they chose the name “The Cannoli Pie Company” and relaunched and refocused their wholesale distribution business around being "Cannoli Specialists" and "Masters of All Things Cannoli."
This little bakery that could has some big news for the holidays. In between making wedding cakes for most of Connecticut and running a full Italian Bakery, John managed to get his amazing cannoli pies into 85 local Stop & Shops along with scattered Price Rite, Shop Rites and specialty stores. And now, two years later, their cannoli pie is in EVERY SINGLE STOP & SHOP – over 400 stores in 5 states!
Bruxelles Brasserierecently opened its doors on Main Street in the space formerly occupied by Barcelona Wine Bar. The setting is hip - a SoHo vibe in SoNo – the flavors are somewhat more traditional. Chef Roland Olah describes his cuisine as simple, though I beg to differ. While there is a familiarity with every dish, nearly everything we tried also had an element of surprise. At Bruxelles Brasseries, you might find that the expected meets the unexpected.
I pose this question to you…Is there anything better than a well executed egg sandwich in the wee hours of the morning (or really any time of day)? A nice runny yolk…smoky bacon…buttery Parker House roll….drooling yet? Well, for lovers of all things egg sandwich, we’ve got some egg-citing news. The crave-worthy egg sandwich food truck, The Tasty Yolk, has officially opened the doors to their NEW storefront location at 2992 Fairfield Ave, Bridgeport TODAY! No longer will hungry diners exclusively have to seek out one of their three Fairfield County mobile breakfast sandwich delivery vehicles. Chef Eric Felitto’s (Food Network Chopped Champion) award winning menu will be available 6 days a week, Tuesday through Sunday. P.S. MSN awarded The Tasty Yolk one of "America's 100 Best Food Trucks." Oh, and did I mention they have added a FULL LUNCH MENU to the lineup?? Yup…We’re pumped.
