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Sunday
Sep302012

South End: A Modern Tavern Opens in New Canaan

In early July CTbites previewed the opening of South End, the newest addition to the New Canaan restaurant scene.  Nearly two months of frenzied activity has confirmed the local appreciation that the creative cuisine of Chef Nicholas Martschenko is alive on Pine Street.

Overseeing the front of the house is Keith Siskind, his business partner, and the duo redesigned the interior at South End to create a relaxing atmosphere by intertwining rustic charm with modern comfort. The tables are carefully arranged to allow for pleasant conversation and the overall noise level creates a vibrant buzz without overwhelming intrusion. With upwards of 85 seats, 30 of which are contained around the energetic bar area, South End offers pleasant ambience to enjoy the wonderful cuisine that emerges from the kitchen.

The duo’s ambition to create the “Modern Tavern” is a rousing success. Siskind developed an excellent relationship with two local breweries, New Canaan’s Charter Oak and Stamford’s Half Full (Bright Ale) and both are prominently displayed on the taps overlooking the bar. In addition to these local brews, South End's taps are serving a Pilsner from Brooklyn Brewery and Palm, a Euro Pale Lager from Belgium. The bar is also stocked with numerous beers, liquors and wines.

While enjoying a beer, wine or cocktail and perusing the menu, you may want to consider nibbling and sharing two of South End’s wonderful appetizers; Nonna’s Meatballs, which are absolutely delicious, or a selection of Artisanal Meats and Cheeses, served on a piece of reclaimed wood.

One of my favorite hot appetizers was the trio of Prosciutto Wrapped Figs stuffed with goat cheese and served with blistered grapes and finished with Saba syrup. They were delectable with an outstanding flavor combination of the sweet figs offset by the saltiness of the prosciutto and the deep sweet-sour composition of the Saba syrup.

The recently introduced Roasted PEI Mussels were served in a tomato and fennel broth that was slightly thickened with rouille and served with slices of grilled garlic bread. This dish delivered a fantastic combination of flavors; the tomatoes adding a sweet quality to the tender mussels while the fennel added a delightful licorice accent to the broth.

I recommend South End’s Heirloom Tomato Salad (end of the season upon us) that includes several varieties of seasonally ripe tomatoes, a touch of a tomato gelee, plus a tiny scoop of basil ice cream sitting atop a slice of mozzarella. The flavors of the tomatoes were sweet and delicious and when combined with the mozzarella and basil ice cream and a little of the pesto created a wonderful balance of flavors and textures. This was a refreshing and delightful dish.

My favorite appetizer / entrée was the Grilled Fresh Bacon, served atop mustard spaetzle, and paired with peach chutney and a sherry sauce. The meat was slow-braised and incredibly moist. The sherry sauce was brushed over the meat to create a wonderful balance of flavors and the slightly crisp edges of the spaetzle were a great offset to its soft texture. The peach chutney added a sweet and delicious complement to the slightly sour sherry sauce.

Chef Martschenko’s talent to create incredible pasta dishes was evident in several of the pasta dishes that I enjoyed. All of the pastas are house-made and shows the passion he developed as the Executive Chef at i Trulli.

My favorite pasta was the Tagliatelle Bolognese, a version that should remain the cornerstone of South End’s ever-changing menu. The pasta was the perfect thickness to handle the rich flavors of the veal, pork, and beef based Bolognese. The sauce was a traditional preparation and finished with rosemary and basil. On each visit this dish was ordered by at least one person at our table and in every instance the entire table tasted and thoroughly enjoyed the rich flavors of the sauce combined with the texture of the pasta.

Another recommended choice is the Veal Cannelloni, house-made crepes stuffed with veal, spinach and ricotta cheese and served with a Sicilian pistachio sauce.  A second recommendation is one of several variations of the Orrechiette, whether with a delicious braised rabbit or ground Italian sausage. The sauce that accompanies the Orrechiette changes often and I have enjoyed the braised rabbit as well as the sausage and broccoli rabe.

The entrées include selections of fish, meats and poultry. Three of the entrees that I thoroughly enjoyed included the Roasted Amish Chicken, the Grilled Pork Chop and the Scottish Organic Salmon.

The Roasted Chicken was described by Chef Martschenko as "the epitome of the modern tavern" cuisine. It was served atop spinach plus a wide assortment of mushrooms. The tarragon jus was a perfect complement to the perfectly roasted chicken. The chicken was succulent and the skin was crisped to perfection. The mashed potatoes were served in an iron crock and were whipped with oil and finished with butter and cream; totally decadent and absolutely delicious.

The Pork chop is first slow braised, then finished on the grill and served with diced potatoes (sweet and russet) plus spinach; the cooking method created a perfectly consistent and juicy doneness to the meat and the quick grill added a textural difference. The sherry sauce was outstanding, reduced almost to a consistency of a demi-glace, with intense flavors and perfectly complemented the pork, the crispy potatoes and the bacon.

For a lighter choice, the Salmon is an delightful option. The asparagus vinaigrette brought the entire dish together and was served with a variety of beans and peas, potatoes and a wonderful selection of mushrooms. The salmon was incredibly moist on the interior and the skin was perfectly crisped.

Chef Markschenko is also preparing scrumptious desserts including the South End Sundae and Raspberry/Nectarine Cobbler. The Sundae pairs pistachio and vanilla ice creams, a fudgy chocolate sauce, Luxardo cherries, roasted almonds, and is served with an anise biscotti. The ice cream was delicious, but the highlight was the Luxardo cherries; and when covered with some of the rich fudge, was a perfect ending to the meal. The Cobbler delivered a perfect balance of crunchy and smooth, with the fruits baked to maintain a crisp texture, the sweet streusel topping added addition crunchiness and the smooth toasted almond ice cream created a perfect partner to the cobbler.

After a mere two months, South End is a welcoming restaurant in New Canaan serving delicious and constantly changing choices. Chef Martschenko continues to develop flavors and combinations for his guests in New Canaan enjoy while Siskind has created a relaxing and friendly environment for all to enjoy. The New Canaan restaurant footprint now extends to Pine Street with the addition of South End.

-  South End – 36 Pine Street – New Canaan, CT, 06840    -

203-966-5200

[Photography courtesy of Jane Beiles Photography]

South End on Urbanspoon

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    South End: A Modern Tavern Opens in New Canaan - CT Bites - Restaurants, Recipes, Food, Fairfield County, CT

Reader Comments (6)

Well said, Jeff! I couldn't agree more that South End is a unique and wonderful addition to the rapidly expanding, fantastic food-scape of our town! Welcome to New Canaan, South End!

September 30, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterJane Beiles

I actually couldn't disagree more! My husband and I ate there last week, and the service was terrible and the food mediocre. Maybe it is the location, but I think this spot is jinxed. Won't go back!

October 1, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterJulie

Yet another overrated overpriced New Canaan restaurant. nothing special about the food which ran us over $120 for two app's two pasta's and one dessert.

October 2, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterGross

Nice food, however, small portions for price. They need to look at the perceived value in comparison to comparable food/wine establishments

October 3, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterLL

In response to the above post....I don't understand how you could write about perceived value. I have eaten there 4 times already, each time being just as great as the prior. They have 5 wines by the glass under $10, how is that not value? The price range of the wine list has great bottle selections in every $10 interval from $30-$120. They have options both small and large for protein and veggie lovers all competitively priced. What would you consider value?? The food is spectacular. Flavors are fantastic, presentation is beautiful (check out the pics above), and you can tell the food is prepared with love. I have owned 5 successful restaurants in NYC, Westchester and CT (until my son took over the operation). The problem with food blogs are that people the people who are commenting on them don't know what goes into running a restaurant. What is value?? Foie Gras for $8? High end wine for $40 a bottle? After over 30 years of doing this, I still have yet to comprehend people's perception, or lack there of, of value. Keep doing what you're doing South End. You have a beautiful space, service is attentive and genuinely care about the guest, and the food is consistently spot on. Kudos!

October 14, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterRyanCannon

This is one of the best restaurants I have been to in a long time and I am so glad its close. Now we don't have to always go into NYC for a good meal.
This food quality is outstanding and it upsets me to see some posts I read about value.
I have gone here many times and for my 10yr anniv and my birthday and every time the food has been perfect.
I feel for what you get....it is a super value and i cant wait to go back.

February 18, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterGlen Tobias

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