Sushi Otaru - A Slice of Tokyo Under an Unassuming New Haven Garage

Chloe Zale December 29, 2023

In Japan, the best sushi is often found in unexpected places: on the 7th floor of an office building, for example, or, famously, in an underground hallway leading to a subway station. Who would think the same could be said for Connecticut, where one of the state’s most outstanding omakases is located beneath an overpass connecting to New Haven’s Temple Street Garage?

Otaru Sushi Bar, which Chef Sunny Cheng and his wife Kathy opened in 2018, is serving up some of the most sophisticated yet playful bites of sushi on the Eastern Seaboard, without a hint of the austere service that marks many sushi restaurants of a similar caliber across the Pacific. Rather, Sunny employs a diner-first attitude in his joyful omakase, featuring a diverse symphony of flavors, textures, and, of course, top-quality fish. When we requested no squid or abalone in our omakase, he immediately understood: “no chewy, no problem.” And when neighboring diners inquired about the fish that created the glistening bites in front of them, Sunny whipped out a dog-eared sushi guidebook to provide an informative visual reference while narrating his take.

In the same customer-friendly ethos, Otaru’s omakase is an excellent value: $108 buys three elegant courses of sashimi, ten creative pieces of nigiri, a hand roll, fresh miso soup, and two dessert courses, including a just-sweet-enough, perfectly fluffy tamago, the famously difficult-to-master Japanese egg omelet. Just ask the Yale Economics professors, whom Sunny credits as some of his most loyal customers. They clearly understand that, compared to restaurants of equivalent quality in New York City, where Sunny cut his teeth (at Morimoto and Nobu, among others), this offering is a total steal. Plus, the parking is free in the neighboring garage, as long as you ask for a coupon on your way out.

Despite being both approachable and relatively affordable, the food doesn’t compromise on quality or execution. We were particularly wowed by the array of culture-melding seasonings complementing the fresh fish that Sunny brings in from New York multiple times per week. In the second sashimi course, plush slices of amberjack swam in a drinkable tomato and yuzu “ceviche,” with a hint of spice and splash of color from Sunny’s secret ingredient, aji amarillo. Within the nigiri section of the meal, a light and crunchy tempura maitake mushroom’s natural funky flavor was enhanced by a smattering of truffle salt, and the sweetness of barely-cooked shrimp nigiri was balanced by the savory smokiness of a hefty dusting of finely grated Sardinian gold bottarga. Another one of our favorites was the spicy tomato and cilantro salsa dolloped over a piece of pearly shima aji, or striped jack.

In the same way that Otaru plays with exuberant flavors, an array of textures also enlivens the dining experience. In the first sashimi course, we inhaled a luxurious pile of seared, buttery chutoro (medium fatty tuna), enjoying the crunchy contrast offered by its garnishes: a julienned fresh radish and crispy fried shallot, plus greens and edible flowers. Coupled with the truffle ponzu sauce underneath, that dish truly started the meal off on a high note. Later, creamy and mild Hokkaido uni (sea urchin) nigiri found its place atop a feather-light yet sturdy plank of fried shiso leaf, providing textural contrast to what can sometimes be a challenging species for sushi newcomers.

Sunny knows when to scale back the toppings to spotlight his stellar fish. Also in the nigiri section was zuke, which is tuna marinated in sake, mirin, and soy sauce until it is savory, tender, and bright crimson. This version was served naked but for a purposeful swoosh of wasabi on its underbelly to cut its rich mouthfeel. A warm, torched piece of barracuda was graced by a sprinkle of sea salt and lime zest that melted into the fish as it dissolved in our mouths.

It’s clear that Sunny seeks perfection in serving his clientele; when a diner received a piece of tamago with a tiny piece broken off the corner, he immediately presented another perfectly sliced rectangle to ensure his customer received the perfect end to his meal. His wasabi is grated fresh, and even though the decor is nothing to write home about, he achieves elegance in his food, as evidenced by the crowning piece of nigiri, otoro (fatty tuna) served with a scoop of caviar and generous flake of gold leaf for visual effect.

His pursuit of customer-facing excellence also means that Chef Sunny chooses to exercise restraint when it comes to his personal culinary preferences, opting to serve crowd pleasers over his own, envelope-pushing favorites. A wise, adventurous diner might request the pieces that he saves under his counter for those bold enough to ask. We requested some of his off-menu favorites and received a salt-and-vinegar-marinated gizzard shad nigiri, a pleasingly chewy ribbonfish seasoned with the perfect amount of sea salt, and another piece of uni, this time a funkier variety from Santa Barbara, served plain with a dab of soy sauce over rice.

For those who want more control over the experience or, alternatively, to spend less, Otaru also offers a reasonably priced a la carte menu with rolls, hand rolls, tempura, and other classics. Take-out is also available via phone. A decently sized, well curated sake list with a few wines and beers is on offer for those looking to complete the meal. No matter what route you choose, you will be sure to be wowed by Otaru’s beautifully crafted sushi and caring service. We can’t wait to return!

Sushi Otaru 21 Temple Street, New Haven

@21Otaruct