Chefs that have a bustling restaurant never take a full month off. For Luke Venner, “vacation” wasn’t pina coladas in the Caribbean, nor was it one of his fishing or hunting excursions. Instead, he was mostly in New Canaan, at Elm, remixing popular dishes, creating new ones, and reimagining and renovating the entire dining room. Don’t freak out. Your beloved Double-Double was unharmed in the process. But the dining room? Transformed. And it’s something that Venner—who’s in his 10th season as Elm’s executive chef and co-owner—has been meaning to tackle for quite a while. Talk to him about it and you can tell he’s feeling refreshed about all of it.
Twizzlers, Peanut M&Ms, butter drenched popcorn, a bucket sized Coke. Come on! We’re all guilty of indulgences when we go to see the latest blockbuster movie. I’m a Reese’s guy (or addict rather) myself. But moviegoers in and around New Canaan have an upgrade when it comes to theater fare. And no, we’re not talking about a certain chain that likely just heats up something from a package. The Playhouse in New Canaan, along with movie houses in South Orange, New Jersey and Cañon City, Colorado, with another in Bradley Beach, NJ on the way, are part of a renovation project by movie producer Luke Parker Bowles, the CEO of Cinema Lab Theaters.
It’s been a while since a new restaurant opened in New Canaan, so I was very excited when I heard that the much-anticipated Blackbird opened a few doors down from its sister restaurant Solé. After the first visit, the food was so spectacular, that I was quick to visit a second time a week late. Spoiler alert - It is already serving some of the best and most creative dishes in Fairfield County.
Blackbird is the newly opened addition of the Z Hospitality Group, which operates numerous, well-established restaurants in the area including Solé, Mediterraneo, Terra and East End. The narrow and long space is akin to the Solé layout, with tables in the front and a long bar and tables once you reach the mid-point. Unlike Solé, the kitchen is not open to full view, but is located behind doors in the rear. The front area serves guests on traditional tables while high-tops are stationed along the left wall in the rear half, which it shares with the long bar on the right. I was initially concerned about the potential for difficulty in hearing (a la Solé) but I was pleasantly surprised that the ambient noise in the front was friendly and the high-tops across from the bar were even better.
Well, well, well, if it isn’t 2024, the dreaded new year. From the Halloween candy and Thanksgiving pies, to the Christmas cookies and unlimited New Year’s bubbly, I think it’s safe to say we are ready to start anew (I will also be buying a new scale because mine is clearly broken). Now it’s time for us to follow through with those dreaded resolutions. Whether you want to eat better, drink less alcohol, consume more sustainable foods, or treat the mind and spirit, this should be your go-to list. I don’t know about you, but I am tired of committing to goals that are almost impossible to stick with. However, with this caliber of options listed below, there is no goal that cannot be accomplished, and that is coming from me, a true pessimist. Let’s march into February excited about how far we have come with our resolutions, because being healthy does not mean forfeiting fun and creativity. C’mon now, say it with me!
Here are 45 spots for HEALTHY EATING and wellness in Connecticut.
Between courses at one of his collaboration special events, Prasad Chirnomula spoke to his full dining room about creating a bond with his fellow Connecticut chefs.
“We’ve been doing this for almost a year now, bringing chefs together,” he says. “The whole point of doing this, is we, as chefs, work our asses off. We’re always back in the kitchen on Saturday nights, Sunday nights, holidays, and everything else. I’ve done my share of work, so I said to myself that I’m gonna enjoy what I did for so many years of my life. I want to create a legacy and a bond with people I recognize and know of. Even if I don’t know someone, I’ll pick up the phone, call them, and say, ‘Hey, buddy! How are you doing? Do you wanna cook together?’ This is the hardest industry to work in and food brings people together.”
I could start with the usual hellos and some intros, but why beat around the bush-let’s dive right in and start with a sandwich you will want to get to know: The Heirloom Reuben. It’s a Reuben of a different color, though; two slices of fresh sourdough bread stuffed full of marinated cabbage, carrots, sautéed onions, sauerkraut, special “Heirloom” sauce, and raw Cheddar or vegan cheese. It’s a two-handed wonder that only the truly skilled can maneuver. It’s also a meat-LESS Reuben. This and many more vegan delights hold court on the most beloved list (aka menu) at the Heirloom Food Co., a healthy eatery in Danielson, one of the towns in the chock-full-of-surprises Quiet Corner of Connecticut. As I mentioned, you are going to want to get to know this place. And this sandwich.
On several occasions, chef Tim LaBant has suggested we check out Dante’s Pizza in New Canaan.
“Have you been to Dante’s?”
“Have you been to Dante’s yet?”
“You gotta try Dante’s. I’d be curious to see what you think.”
Before he mentioned it to me a year ago, I hadn’t even heard of Dante’s. I live pretty close to New Canaan, and what’s worse is I frequently visit my favorites there, namely the South Ends, Elm, Locali, and I’ve eaten an obscene amount of Joe’s Pizza.
As Elm Restaurant successfully slides into their 10th year in New Canaan, we sat down with Chef Luke Venner to discuss this impressive milestone in a challenging industry. Elm is known for its friendly, local atmosphere, globally-inspired menu, and focus on fresh ingredients. Venner always has something new up his sleeve to keep diners engaged. Aside from seasonal menu updates, he introduced afternoon tea service in 2021, and navigated the pandemic with innovative to-go boxes. Side note: If you haven’t had his “Animal Style Burger,” you’re really missing out. Here are a few things you may not know about one of CT’s top chefs.
What made you want to be a chef?
It was somewhat accidental. I started working in a Steakhouse kitchen my freshman year in high school to earn extra cash for gas, the cool shoes, music, etc.. I began washing dishes and before long decided to quit sports to work full time after class. I quickly became one of the top cooks and by my senior year in high school I graduated as the sous chef at only 18 years old.
Prior to that, I had always thought I wanted to do something in the biology field and drew most of my inspiration from the outdoors. Back then, food still didn't have much presence on television and I had never picked up a cookbook, but I was drawn to the restaurant energy and I was sure much better ones than I had experienced existed. Ultimately, competitive drive got the best of me and I decided I would push myself as far as I could go in the business I was already in. I applied to a small European style apprenticeship program in Colorado 600 miles from my hometown and, much to my surprise, was accepted. I immediately began training for the next four years under an old world French chef and my life would change forever.
When was the last time you visited Grace Farms? The stunning 80-acre space in New Canaan, Connecticut that supports initiatives in the areas of nature, arts, justice, community, and faith, and encourages participation locally and globally is a treasure to visit. Pritzker Prize-winning River building, is the focal point, having become an integral part of the landscape. Designed to resemble a rambling river, five transparent glass-enclosed buildings that each live beneath one flowing roof. Here you will find The Sanctuary, a 700-seat amphitheater; the library, a staffed library with resources related Grace Farms Foundation's initiatives; the Commons, a community gathering space with 18-foot-long tables; the Pavilion; a welcome reception and conversation space with tea service; and the Court, an incredible underground recreational space used by local children and schools. Wander around the 80 acres of open meadows, woods, wetlands, and ponds and soak up all the breathtaking scenery.
In 2021 Grace Farms Foods was launched by Grace Farm’s Founder Sharon Prince along with Adam Thatcher to share with the world and invite everyone to be part of their mission by offering our signature cookies, coffee, and tea.
If we lived in 1840’s England, most of us in middle class and below wouldn’t be allowed to have afternoon tea. Now that we’re past the 19th Century—and living in America in the joyous years of 2020 and 2021—tea, tiny sandwiches, and snackable sweets before dinner is for all to enjoy, regardless of status.
Afternoon tea in present day Connecticut can be found, though places that offer it are few and far between, but there’s a new one going down on Fridays by Luke Venner at Elm in New Canaan.
Venner told us that the idea for tea and bites came about when he was reminiscing with colleagues about their days in Manhattan and wanting to offer a New York City experience for locals. “It’s good for a neighborhood place like Elm because people aren’t going into the city as much as they used to,” he says. “But city people are coming here, so why not try to recreate that?”
What Elm is doing is all kinda classic of a tea service but with Elm’s twist on it.
Expect to see mini cucumber sandwiches…but with caviar. A ham and cheese sammy follows the fancy trend as it’s topped with a sliver of black truffle. And there’s a foie gras macaron. You get the idea.
Venner mentioned that he drew inspiration from Gabriel Kreuther’s tea program at the Baccarat Hotel.
“He was the former chef at The Modern and that (afternoon tea at the Baccarat) was one of the best I’ve had,” he says. “Offering this has become such a fun, creative outlet for me.”
Nick Martschenko is every so closer to his monopoly on New Canaan’s restaurant scene. Even if that’s not the goal, he’s inching towards it with what’s now a downtown dining trifecta.
His latest venture, The Back End, is different. You can’t compare it to his flagship fine dining South End. And it’s not reminiscent of the laid-back but chatty speakeasy-meets-pub atmosphere of SE Uncorked, that stars “snacks + taps” (and cocktails and one damn fine burger).
“I wanted it (The Back End) to have Miami vibes, at least I want it to have that feel,” Martschenko says. “I envision it with the bar windows wide open, a super casual setting with lots of colors, lots of pink. Ruth (Stiefel) helped a lot with the design.”
The Back End is Mexican. Well, sort of. A more accurate description is Mexican inspired with a fine dining twist, and a little fast casual tossed into the mix.
“It’s elevated Mexican food,” Martschenko says. “I’m not gonna say we’re traditional, but we bear the traditional values of what we do. It’s different. I don’t know how to do it any other way.”
Attn: Cheese lovers. This just in from New Canaan Advertiser…
Elixirs for mocktails, a choice of 65 cheeses and coffee sourced from women farmers in Kenya will all be coming to New Canaan next month.
Plum Plums Cheese is moving with its gourmet goodies from its Pound Ridge, N.Y., location to 149 Cherry St. in New Canaan on April 1.
The 7-year-old enterprise, owned by spouses Gayle Martin and Michael Riahi, will be expanding its offerings with butchered meats in addition to the charcuterie, soups and sandwich options. The new location is 1,100 square feet, compared to the 700-square-foot space in New York.
“We know the back story of every item we sell. If cheese, meat, bar of chocolate or jar of jam,” Martin said. “Our primary focus of cheese.”
Organic Krush, with locations across Long Island, the Hamptons and Virginia, has just opened in Westport at 374 Post Road E.Organic Krush is a fast casual restaurant featuring healthy, organic menu, but cooked, juiced, and baked with a lot more love than your might expect from the average grab-n-go spot. The entire menu features ingredients that are 100% certified organic and free of GMOs, hormones, pesticides and really…fake anything. Diners seeking gluten-free, vegan or paleo options will be happy to discover that most of Organic Krush’s extensive menu works for them, and they can accommodate most dietary needs or restrictions. Organic Krush’s motto is “Eat Happy, Spread Love,” and although this is the seventh location for Co-Founders Michelle Walrath & Fran Paniccia, when I walked in just a few days before they opened their doors, the love and attention to every detail was clearly visible. From employee training and safety protocols to the consistency of the dishes coming out of the kitchen, Organic Krush made a strong debut. Open for three meals a day, from breakfast through dinner pick up at 8PM, I have a strong hunch that this will be a go-to spot for many in the Westport area who aren’t feeling like cooking but are seeking a healthy and tasty meal for their family.
Walking in to meet the legendary “Rosie” of Rosie New Canaan, I had full clarity within 30 seconds as to what has made this uber delicious global comfort food spot so beloved for 16 years. Sure, it’s the 2 pound blueberry muffins that could make a grown man weep, and the love that goes into the 6 hour stewed black beans in Rosie’s hueveos rancheros, but truly it is Rosie Bonura herself that makes this place feel like home (but with far better fare than you’d find in your own kitchen). She herself is the perfect recipe of creative energy, passion, and love for her community. This New Canaan fixture, whom I came to realize, after sitting streetside with her, knows everyone in the town by name, came racing out of the kitchen to greet me (we’d never met in person), virtually hugged me, (cuz’ Covid), and said “I need to get a batch of cookies out of the oven, I’ll be right back.”
Before Luke Venner debuted as Elm’s executive chef and partner, the New Canaan restaurant already had a following amongst townies, and there’s more than a good chance you heard Elm get name dropped as one of Fairfield County’s overall best. Five years later, it’s safe to say that Venner isn’t only hitting his stride, but he’s also having fun developing Elm’s dishes from what they once were. Once thought of as being, dare I say, “fancy,” Elm, under Venner, is approachable.
The “seasonal New American” theme still exists, and it’s still a tough table to snag on a peak dine out day. The differences at Elm are now presented in the form of comfort. Sure, there are menu holdovers like tuna (or steak) tartare but if you’ve taken a half decade break from eating here, you won’t recognize it for what it once was.
As some Connecticut restaurants begin the slow process of reopening with outdoor dining, you’ll either rush right out, ease back into it, or wait a bit longer when it comes to reintroducing yourself to your favorite eateries based on your level of comfort. Regardless of where you stand, it’s a safe bet that your dining repertoire will still include takeout.
At the very beginning of quarantine, one of my first orders came from an oldie. Joe’s Pizza has been open since 1967, almost two decades before I was born. I’ve actually had my entire life to try it, but here I am in 2020, a Joe’s newbie.
Resolutions, goals, lifestyle changes-whatever the reason, it’s never too late or bad of an idea to try to eat healthier. As the winter starts to fade into the distance and with it goes the heavy comfort foods that satisfied us on brisk evenings, our focus can start to turn now towards lighter, healthier options. Turn to the sun! Sometimes, though, the hardest part is simply figuring out what to eat. But wait, what about dining out? Is it possible to eat out and still stay on a healthy track? Yup, yup, double yup. There is a virtual cornucopia of healthy eating spots so, lucky for you, that guesswork has been removed from the equation. Now you only have to decide what you are craving. Branch out, try some new food and drinks and be happier knowing that what you are eating is not only enjoyable but better for you.
Check out these 20+ Spots for Healthy Eats in Connecticut.
Most of the time we bring you pieces on chefs but we’re trying something new that puts the focus on interesting food and beverage industry folks that ARE NOT chefs but have a tale to tell; think bartenders, independent bakers, farmers, maybe some brewers, or even that waiter everyone seems to know.
It’s only fitting to kick it off with Mike Geller, the owner of Mike’s Organic Delivery in Stamford. He’s not a chef, he has a story, and he’s really easy to have a conversation with. He’s one of the reasons why I thought of this series in the first place, so making him number one was a no-brainer.
If you’re unfamiliar with Mike’s Organic, it opened in 2009, strictly as a grocery delivery service. Now, celebrating its decade-old birthday, Geller expanded his business and opened his doors to the public with a mini market filled with carefully selected organic goods, fresh produce, and lots of local products. To boot, they host lots of special events and cooking classes with the likes of Geoff Lazlo, Ross Bread, and Nit Noi Provisions.
How it all started, though, is quite something. Cue the Q&A!
