Tavern in Monroe: Modern Comfort Food in N. FC
Utter the word “tavern” and the mind conjures images of dimly-lit rooms, Hungry-Man portions of protein and white starches, with deep fried renditions of both. Upsell this concept to northern Fairfield County in the hands of two seasoned restaurateurs and you get Tavern in Monroe.
Located on a busy stretch of Rt. 25 just between Newtown and Trumbull, Tavern is already attracting a steady crowd in just under two months of operation. The after-work crowd is drawn to its handsome whiskey barrel studded bar and families clamber to fill the outdoor patio with its comfortable vibe and family-friendly menu.
The credit for this early success is due in large part to Scott Beck, co-owner and founder of SoNo’s Match and The Loft and Derrick Lee, the former co-founder and general manger at Match who teamed up to create the informal and family-friendly Tavern near their own Fairfield and Trumbull homes.
Echoing the feel of this modern pub decor is a menu filled with upscale comfort food. Think “meat and potatoes” with a slightly discerning palate. Hearty appetites are Tavern’s target customer with the menu’s front and center “Mini Grilled Cheese Board” and formidable burger selection setting the tone.
Photo: Liz Dorney
Three small yet swarthy sandwiches, the grilled cheese trio is built upon thick-cut grilled french bread surrounding your choice of tomato, bacon and jalapenos as well the unusual (for a tavern) yet recommended, Manchego, Chorizo and Membrillo or a Croque Monsieur with San Danielle prosciutto, Gruyere, wild mushrooms and bechamel.
If you make it past the grilled cheese plate, the rest of the menu is split up into small plates, salads, burgers, sandwiches and “bigger plates.” The small plates and salads reflect much of what you’d expect from a pub – the obligatory wings, fried calamari, nachos, and salads.
However it’s the road less traveled, and the calories you shouldn’t dare to count, that you should consider. At the bottom of the list of starters is a bratwurst and pretzel dish I’ll be revisiting. A house-made lightly salted pretzel, evenly doughy and chewy, is sidled with grilled pale ale brats, sauerkraut and grainy mustard. A perfect small plate with its layers of textures and multiple components that sets the tone for the menu.
For dinner, or for those with bottomless appetites, Tavern has meat, and lots of it. It will not come as a surprise that the burger gets much of the attention here, with five 8 oz black angus beef burgers in several winning combinations. The most popular burger and one I enjoyed double-fisting, was the Tavern burger. This challenging tower of bourbon glazed cipollini onions, crispy applewood smoked bacon, Vermont cheddar cheese with smoked mayo and house made pickles is served on a toasted onion brioche roll. If you’re after heat, try the Jalapeno Burger with its smoky and spicy layers of pepper jack cheese, pickled jalapenos, jalapeno mayo, scallions and avocado. The Bacon, Egg and Cheeseburger is a perfect breakfast-for-dinner dish with crispy smoked bacon, sunny side egg, and American cheese on an over-sized toasted English muffin.
Tavern’s “Large Plates” are also protein-driven. A NY-strip steak frites, fish and chips and bbq baby back ribs are familiar and provocative. However you may find yourself skipping straight to the fried chicken like I did, intrigued by its attractive sides and a conversation with Beck about our shared admiration for the Thomas Keller ad hoc fried chicken.
Tavern’s Fried Chicken is made up of three tender and juicy pieces of chicken outfitted in a crispy fried buttermilk shell and accompanied by caramelized onion infused mashed potatoes, roasted sweet summer corn & bacon, and sausage gravy. This is the type of dish they should give awards for finishing. I split it with a friend and brought the rest home for lunch. And then dinner. Each part of this dish is well choreographed down to a smooth brown gravy studded with stowaway hunks of fennel-laced sausage. If I could eat this at the height of summer, I know I’ll be craving this in the dead of winter.
As for the drinks, eight beers on tap and fifty bottled beers feature prominently on the menu. There are seven house cocktails and a short list of wine. I couldn’t even lift the menu to make it to dessert on either visit. When and if I do, the ice cold milk and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies will be hard to pass up.
You may remember this space was originally home to Pancho & Gringo’s before it burned down and was rebuilt as a sports bar for a short run. Beck and Lee decided to gut the space working closely with Christian Arkay-Leliever of KMS Team in New York who Beck says, “was instrumental in the design.” This attention to detail is evidenced in a comfortable and modern space redefining the concept of a Tavern as we know it.
What will certainly become Tavern’s signature, Jack Daniels whisky barrels, are used along the bar and cut into the back wall of the rear dining room. A central fire place divides two seating areas, with an outdoor patio sprawls just to the right of the entrance, the entire space clearly built for year-round use.
Comfort food with a wink and nod, Tavern is a welcome respite for those of us traveling or living along this northern Fairfield County corridor. Be warned, small appetites need not apply.
Tavern 262 Main Street, Monroe CT 203.880.5007
Beer, Burgers, Monroe, comfort food, kid friendly
Reader Comments (12)
This looks delicious! I can't wait to get over there.
Smaller appetites can enjoy the lobster salad, which, as so many of the items you mentioned above, did not disappoint when we first visited the Tavern a few weeks ago! We will definitely be back to enjoy the food and the ambiance -- a welcome addition to the Northern Fairfield County corridor!
That looks promising! Fact check: this location was, in fact, rebuilt and continues to do business as Pancho & Gringo's after the fire that had closed it. The sports bar Rivalry took over after P&G's moved out for reasons unknown to me (probably economic).
@Hugh You are correct, I paraphrased for space. What's most interesting to me, is the creeping of great food into this neighborhood from lower FC. It's a trend I hope continues. Although I'm still smarting over the loss of Stepney Kitchen.
great article!
....Ive been to tavern a few times now and have been thrilled every time. (This article nails it -- but its not all comfort food -- tuna tartare was also good...)
...The first time was as a date with my wife - I had the meatloaf of all things and man was it amazing; rich, creamy - delicious. That with the fantastic grilled cheeses -- just decadent. We had an awesome time.
The other time I went was meeting a friend for some beers late night. We had a couple apps -- try the wings and the brat + pretzel. The wings are amazing (panko-crusted buffalo wings) and the gourmet beer list was outstanding too. Great place to hang out -- cant wait to go back to Tavern during football season!!
I also noticed on the earlier side the place is very family friendly -- to me this is the best of all possible worlds. Comfort food my kids can enjoy, yet it sophisticated enough so that I my palette is sufficiently surprised! -- and the vibe, and energy of the place is really cool to. Its a place that works for everyone...
@gavin_h Thanks for sharing your experience and rec's! I think I may have to try the meat loaf when I return. I was impressed that it drew such a diverse crowd (young professionals and families), which is always a good thing.
I've eaten there a countless amount of timesl! Outstanding environment, food, and service! I recommend it to anyone (all ages) looking for quality foods. It draws in a bar crowd as well as the more family oriented crowd. One of a kind restraunt!
The restaurant that burned was not Pancho & Gringo’s it was Senor Pancho's.
I went to a work function here recently and the food was very good which I typically don't expect when they are serving a large group off of a pre-fixe menu.
I notice there is no mention or love for the chef. As a chef myself, I can't imagine people raving about my food and not getting any recognition. Any one know who the chef is? Who ever it is, your food is great!
Brief review: Tables too close together. LOUD atmosphere due in part to the high ceiling and bare concrete floor. The food pricing is on the high end of the range for this fare; although the "wedge" salad was exorbitantly priced at $10 for the size of the portion. Quality of prep is lacking - not enough attention to detail by the kitchen staff. Service level is above average. The food itself had good flavor.
Overall, nothing here to draw me back. For the amount of money they invested in the location, this needed to be a home run on the first at bat, and it was not.
We missed the Brunch, served for the first time today but we'll visit tonight. I ordered the Tavern Burger on our last trip to Tavern which rivaled our own home cooked burger by far. The generous 8 oz serving and fries left no room for dessert. My wife and I love the rear dining room lined with whiskey barrels. It's cozy and private. The room is comfortable and will be ever more cozy when they light the fireplace. Chilly weather does have it's advantages, although we enjoyed the heated patio on one recent visit.
We will visit often and recommend Tavern to young families, sports fans, older citizens like us and well, just about everyone. You will not be disappointed!