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Thursday
Jan132011

Behind The Scenes @ Bar Rosso's Stamford Opening 

 

In case you haven't noticed, something is afoot in the old Bennett's Steak House on Stamford's Spring St. as the countdown begins on one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in Fairfield County, a venture that brings together the restaurant  acumen of Napa & Co.'s Mary Schaeffer, and the culinary talent of Chef Dan Kardos, most recently of Harvest Supper in New Canaan. Combine this team with an inventive rustic Italian country menu (including a wood burning oven), a bar-centric two-story space, inventive homemade Italian inspired cocktails, and the buzz amongst the foodie obsessed is warranted. CTBites had an exclusive sneak peek into their pre-opening plans, interior renovation, and the much anticipated working menu of the inventive interpretation of traditional Italian fare that will become Bar Rosso.  

When we walked into the space this week, the noise was deafening and the construction had transformed the low ceilinged Bennett’s into a two-story, open-spaced visual extravaganza. The wood burning oven was being installed, the stone wall behind the 50-foot bar was in place (the future projection site for old Italian B&W films). At Bar Rosso, the 50-foot bar and the wood burning oven will be the stars of this urban style trattoria. Both regular height and high tables will surround the bar space on the first floor and the second floor will offer more intimate balcony tables (a weekend DJ will reside on the second floor) plus the warmer months will allow for additional seating on the outdoor patio. Several seats are also planned overlooking the wood burning oven. 

The kitchen equipment will arrive later this week and will allow Chef Dan to move out of the kitchen at Napa & Co, where he has been testing his recipes for the past six months, and start cooking in his own space. In addition to pastas and entrees, the excitement on the pizza was discussed with co-owner Mary Schaffer. The pies will emerge from the wood burning oven in a "thin crust Neopolitan style along the lines of Tarry Lodge." The working pizza choices as of this week include traditional Marguerita style plus drool worthy toppings including Artichokes/marinated tuna/fried olives/farm egg, Ricotta/pecorino Toscano/oregenata breadcrumbs, and Salami/crispy sardines/fennel pollen/EVO. When we asked Chef Kardos what he was most excited about on the menu, he answered without hesitation "the wood burning oven." 

The menu will focus on a culinary tour of Italy from Sicily to the Dolomites with robust offerings of reasonable small plates and starters that casually elevate "bar food." The current menu will include inventive appetizers including Marinated cauliflower, Truffle Polenta, Buttata and olives, Crushed Potatoes, and Whipped chicken livers. In addition the menu will include dry plus homemade pastas with delectable toppings including sausages, lamb, rabbit and shrimp. A selection of heartier meat and fish entrees, many of which will be cooked in the wood burning oven are also in the works. Additionally Chef Kardos will prepare his own mozzarella and in house charcuterie. 

Bar Rosso will also offer a 250 bottle Italian wine list and the 25 wines by the glass, the cocktail menu will feature Italian classics that will include one of the five homemade bitters plus lemoncello, orange-cella and grappa. Overseeing the creation of this inventive “Libations” menu is a passionate master mixologist Eric Ribeiro, whose experience as a chef and a passion for drink has created some incredible specialty cocktails. His remarkable cocktail menu is a wonderful complement to the Bar Rosso experience and it mirrors the attention given to the food. For months Eric as been formulating a selection of homemade bitters with flavors like "In Bloom" (blending rose petals, 151 proof rum, lavender, and star anise),  "Orange" (with orange peel, spices and roots and caramelized sugar), and "Vanilla & Cherry." Each bitter combines roots, spices, and alcohol which he marinates for 2 months, strains and then bottles. The result is intoxicating, and a cocktail only requires a few drops of Eric’s bitters for the flavors to reach their intended intensity. 

While a traditional Cosmopolitan includes vodka, triple sec, lime juice and cranberry juice, the Bar Rosso’s version, named the Mandorlo Cosmo is prepared with Amaretto, Citron Vodka, lime juice and cranberry juice. It was a sweet and delightful combination. The popular Negroni of gin, sweet vermouth and bitters has been upgraded to include Campari, Gin, Prosecco, Cynar, with the housemade Vanilla-Cherry Bitters. We were curious about the ‘Cellos and Eric was quick to pour both the Lemoncello and the Orange-Cello. Two sips of each and both of us understood why these were so popular. They were refreshingly sweet with an extremely pleasing flavor. Then Eric upped the ante with two fantastic adaptations of two traditional cocktails. For those who have enjoyed cocktails in front of a roaring fire after a day of skiing Eric has created his “Hot Smoke” which combines Warm Port, red wine, oranges, grapefruit and sugar into a drink that screamed après ski. We both loved this. But Eric had one more trick up his sleeve with his adult interpretation of hot chocolate. A wonderful chocolate flavor, a richness to the texture and the warming feel of the alcohol laced drink made this the perfect “adolescent” ending to the sampling.  Our recommendation...leave your car at home. 

The final piece that is falling into place for Bar Rosso's anticipated February opening is the highly trained staff. The intitial group of hires has successfully completed a Food & Wine Test plus Bar Rosso's Dedicated Wine Test (see below). Both of us failed miserably. The opening day servers and staff are in the process of completinga 25-day training session on the food, wine plus full day courses on cheese, charcuterie and the nuances of different steak cuts. Mary Schaeffer readily admits that the wait staff can make the restaurant experience and she is fully engaged in this training. 

We wish them luck in the final stages. Stay tuned for our next installment of the Bar Rosso pre-opening story when Chef Dan prepares a broad sampling of his anticipated menu which will be featured in a couple of weeks.

Bar Rosso Quiz #1 for New Hires

Service, service and service!What's the hardest thing about opening a restaurant? Finding great staff! Fairfield County is one of the hardest areas to find people that are passionate about food and wine but also enjoy the service industry as a career and not just to earn a buck while going to school. Below is the quiz all new hires received just to start to identify the level of knowledge they each came in the door with and what was needed. Why are we sharing this? We want you to know how seriously we take the training of the people that will be "selling" our great food and wine each day! See how you do on the quiz...

1. What does corked mean?

2. What does varietal mean?

3. What does the vintage mean?

4. What grapes are grown in Burgundy?

5. What 5 grapes are grown in Bordeaux?

6. What is a Super Tuscan?

7. Name 3 wines (be specific) that your last restaurant poured by the glass

8. Should Champagne POP when you open it?

9. What popular grape is grown in Argentina?

10. What is oxidized?

11. Name a fortified style of wine?

12. Name a grape grown in Piedmont?

13. Name a grape grown in Tuscany?

14. What sparkling wine comes from Italy?

15. What sparkling wine comes from Spain?

16. How many glasses of wine can you get out of a bottle?

17. What is Viognier? Describe it?

18. Another name for Pinot Gris?

19. Another name for Sauvignon Blanc?

20. What grapes are grown in the Rhone Valley

21. What is Chianti Classico?

22. What is Port like?

23. Describe tannin?

24. Describe a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

25. Is Chianti a grape or a region?

26. A customer orders a second bottle of the same wine—what you should do?

27. Is a screw cap a comment on quality?

28. Do you put the cork back in the bottle after opening?

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Reader Comments (10)

Can't wait. I am day dreaming about being able to take that training course, sounds like a great deep-dive into food/wine/culture.

Will the craft cocktails be available at Napa as well as Bar Rosso? Not sure I can wait to try that take on a Negroni.

Looking forward.

January 13, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterAmy Kundrat

I have had the absolute pleasure of getting to know Mary Schaeffer during a business relationship a couple of years ago. My dealings put me in contact with restaurateurs on a daily basis, and I can honestly say that I have never been more impressed by a client has I have with Mary. I too eagerly await the opening of Bar Rosso, as I am certain that Mary's talents and creativity will deliver nothing less than a great dining experience, making this new venture every bit as successful as Napa & Co.

January 15, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterSteve Matsis

While this test offers the most basic of information for a server, I hope they train the staff on the parings of the wine list with the menu items. Even better, print the suggested pairing on the menu and offer a significant list by the glass. Passing a test like this doesn't offer the server insight into the potential experience of the wine by the patron. Patrons would be better served if the staff was trained on the profiles of the wines/varietals and how they may or may not pair with the food menu.

I am looking forward to Bar Rosso as an addition to the Western Fairfield dining lineup.

January 15, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJohnCT

Thanks John for the feedback. This test was actually the test upon hiring and after one day of wine 101 just to get a gauge on level of knowledge they arrive with and how they're retaining. They've had three weeks of intensive pairing discussion and interactive trainings and have tasted over 200 wines. It's a great start but we're not done! You'd be surprised how few passed the test even having worked in great restaurants. Can't wait for you to test them for yourself!

January 15, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterMary schaffer

I would just like to say I am one of the lucky ones to be hired to work at Bar Rosso. The time and money spent into our training is unlike anything I had been through before even having worked in some of the best restaurants in Manhattan as well as CT. I have learned things from Mary and some of her wine distributers that I never thougt imaginable involving food and wine pairings and just passion for the business. I look forward to our open , serving and creating a unique dining expierience for every guest that walks through our door. My name is Shawn request me when you come in and I will be more than happy to guide you through our menu and wine list and ensure you the best dining expierience you have had yet!

January 18, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterShawn

Mary -
it is great to hear that pairing discussions and significant tastings are part of the training. I am always amazed when I walk into an establishment with a wine list that has clearly been thought through, but the wait staff present doesn't have a clue. Looking forward to your opening. Good Luck

January 19, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJohnCT

It already sounds as pretentious as Napa & Co. (homemade bitters--seriously who could possibly care?), hope it's not as overpriced as well. We need reasonably priced dining in these times. And shouldn't CT Bites wait to actually taste the food before swooning over the menu?

May 4, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJanyll

To Janyll

Thank you for your comments. The house-made bitters are flavors that I have never taste elsewhere and I congratulate Chef Eric Ribeiro for the painstaking efforts in bringing these flavors to our area. He prepared several cocktails and they were incredible, I highly recommend many. I discussed the prices with others in various age groups and each mentioned that they felt the prices were spot on.

I agree that a tasting should occur prior to commenting on the food. Chef Kardos and his team prepared close to 10 dishes for us to sample, including pizzas, pasta, appetizers and an entree. I wrote a second article after the food tasting just this past week that you can link to:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2011/5/1/bar-rosso-opening-may-12th-behind-the-scenes-ii.html

Likewise, all of the photos in both articles were of the food that was prepared and tasted.

I hope that helps. Give it a try and let us know.

To Janyll

I am just wondering if your choice of fine dining at a fair price is more like Olive Garden or maybe you prefer to wait until it's half price appatizers at T.G.I.Friday?

So what is pretentious to you? Having ate at Napa & Co. a handful of times I can not recall anything about the place that would be pretentious or overpriced. Would it be the knowledgable staff about the large wine selection? The exquisite food prepared? Maybe it is the friendly staff from the host to the owner and chef?

I don't think it would constitute any of those as pretentious but what makes for an amazing experience and meal. I guess you would rather just show up to a place and have some high school senior take your order and maybe just maybe you and a friend can split the 3 courses for $20 special and even better you will be lucky enough and they will have your favorite Barefoot pinot behind the bar.

As for Chef Kardos, have you been to any of the restaurants that he has prepared food at or maybe gone to his presentations at the James Beard Foundation? I have and it was a privledge to taste the food he prepared. I can not wait to go to Bar Rosso and see what creations he has come up with. Personally I am jealous of Jeff for having tried some of his new creations already.

May 4, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterJason K.

Have not heard much about this place since the hype last spring. How is it? Anyone?

February 2, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMatt P.

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