Colombian Comfort Food @ La Sopresa
Sarah Green
Do you remember that scene from the movie "Ratatouille" when the food critic, Antono Ego, takes his first bite of of the delicious veggie dish? Tears fill his eyes and he is immediately transported back to his care-free, whimsical childhood days. One delectable, comforting, outrageously sublime bite is all it takes to take to bring innocence back to the jaded. I had that experience yesterday after taking one warm, sensational bite of a PANDEQUESO from the bakery section of La Sorpresa, in Norwalk. This undecorated, bare, and ordinary looking pastry was so surprisingly scrumptious, tears literally streamed down my face. Truly. (And yes, I probably DO need medication, but still…) And this wasn’t the only surprise at La Sorpresa, located at 61 Cedar Street in Norwalk. This Colombian restaurant, owned and run by Ivan Dario Gomez, serves typical cuisine from the region, but the place itself is anything but ordinary.
The outside of the building is charming, complete with faux tour bus on the roof which seems to be transporting hungry guests to the restaurant. Inside, the décor is simple (to say the least) yet festive, with miniature doll houses, posters of Colombian super-stars, and running video of what looks like the Columbian version of “So You Think You Can Dance.” This is classic KITSCH (and I don’t mean Taylor!)
The food at La Sorpesa is just as you might expect; they serve the standard Colombian fare made with good quality chicken, meat, and fish with flavorful sauces and plenty of beans and rice. The PLANTAINS are delicious and cooked to perfection, not too sweet. The AREPAS, traditional South American corn cakes, are tasty and can be filled with cheese, chicken, shrimp, steak, or a combination of all of the above. We ordered a gigantic CHICKEN TAMALE
which came to the table piping hot, wrapped in the classic corn husks and bubbling with chunks of chicken, peas, carrots, and potato, delicately surrounded by a buttery roux. This was basically chicken-pot-pie without the “pie” and is what I would certainly call “comfort” food. There are plenty of specialties of the house as well as daily soups specials like hearty lentil or garbanzo with potato, avocado, and a healthy dose of cilantro. This place serves every traditional South American dish you can imagine and the service is beyond friendly. (But be sure to brush up on your Spanish if you can!) There is a standard children’s menu, complete with chicken nuggets, hot dogs, and burgers, but the kids will probably find plenty on the regular menu to satisfy even the pickiest eaters.
But the real “sorpresa” at La Sorpresa is the PANADERIA. This little shop, connected to the restaurant by a tiny bar, seems to be busy 24/7. Here, they sell take - out versions of the restaurant fare by the piece or in bulk. They also sell all kinds of Colombian dried goods, kitchen utensils, lottery tickets, and the kind of tchockes that you might find walking through a street market in Bogota. But the REAL jewels in this tiny treasure chest of a store are the baked goods. As i mentioned earlier, the PANDEQUESO (along with its sister PANDEBONO -same flavor, different shape) is like ambrosia for the gods. Just make sure you eat them hot out of the oven or the thrill is gone. (If you take them home to eat, you must reheat - trust me.) The ear-shaped OREJAS are crispy, sweet, and light. Most "delicioso" is the PASTEL DE 
AREQUIPE. Arequipe is called Dulce de Leche in other South American countries and this bun-like "pastel" is a wonderful mixture of crunchy puff pastry and sweet caramel, made by boiling down milk and sugar to a thick, syrup-like paste. What could be bad? The list goes on and on; there are MERENGUES and PUDDINGS and CHURROS and TORTAS. La Sorpresa has it all- you can chow on AREPAS, indulge in PANDEQUESOS, pick up a coffee grinder, and buy a lottery ticket, all at the same location! One stop shopping at La Sorpresa - this is my kind of place!
La Sopresa 61 Cedar Street, Norwalk 203.838.9809
Reader Comments (13)
Thanks, I can not wait to go after reading this review. Sounds like I need to bring an army with me so I can sample everything! It has me wondering how well some of it may freeze : )
Where is it?
I have a hunch that these items may not freeze well, as I attempted to bring home some and re-heating was not terribly successful. I recommend heading over with a healthy appetite and trying a little of everything. At noon, the Pandequeso was just coming out of the kitchen. Ivan, the owner, may have freezing instructions....it's worth a try.
I reviewed a Colombian restaurant in Stamford last week for the Fairfield County Weekly, Mi Terruna, which was recommended by a Colombian friend. (He prefers Mi Terruna to La Sorpressa, and he lives in Norwalk.) Mi Terruna also has a bakery, but I didn't have a chance to try anything. I highly recommend the empanadas. They are really good. And the "national dish" is a real meal for a man! It's enormous and filling. I advise ordering a salad. All that meat and starch makes you crave green veg.
Here's a link to my review.
http://www.fairfieldweekly.com/article.cfm?aid=16630
Thanks Elizabeth! Mi Terruna is my next meal out.
It is at 61 Cedar Street in Norwalk, for the person who asked for the address! Enjoy.
Whenever I'm homesick for my mom's cooking I head on over to La Sorpresa for delicious Colombian food! I personally love the Lomo Saltado, (A Colombian style beef suey with mouthwatering strips of beef over a bed of onions, green onions, peppers and potatoes.) The Churrrasco steak and the Bandeja Paisa are unforgettable!! I love the Colombian sodas especially "Colombiana" and "Postobon de manzana." But if you want a real tropical adventure , order a fruit juice, maracuya (passion fruit) lives up to it's name!! And don't leave with out trying a beef empanada or pastel de pollo!!! Carfeul not to make the mistake I did. I made a huge order of empanadas & pasteles for my work holiday party a few years ago, now my co-workers require me to bring some to every party!!!
Dear Clara,
I'm interested in the use of french fries in Lomo Saltado. About 10 years ago, I had Lomo Saltado in a Peruvian restaurant in Santa Barbara, California. It had cubed fried potatoes in it and I loved it. But since then, at the various places I've had it on the east coast, it's served over not-so-great french fries. How did you grow up eating it?
Also, from what I've read, Lomo Saltado reflects the influence of Asian immigrants on South American cuisine. Did your mother use soy sauce in her version? And is this dish Peruvian or Columbian? Or both?
Elizabeth
Colombia is a country. Columbia is a university. If the CTBites editor can't even spell, what credibilty are we to place in his comments on the restaurant and fare?
Thanks for the edit. This highlights the difference between computer spell check and a full-time proof reader...some day...
"Colombia is a country. Columbia is a university. If the CTBites editor can't even spell, what credibilty are we to place in his comments on the restaurant and fare?"
What does spelling have to do with taste?
Please don't blame the editor -- it was my typo. Unforgiveable for a Columbia U grad!
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