EOS: Sophisticated Greek in Stamford

Julie Hollenberg

If you live in Fairfield County, or anywhere in the New York Metro area for that matter, going out for Greek typically conjures up an image of a large diner, heavily laden in chrome and formica, with menus the size of VW windshields. Yes, you can order souvlaki , gyros and feta omelets at these establishments, and you might just sit beneath a picture of the Parthenon, but the accent remains heavy on fast, gut stuffing, American standards. One meal at EOS, a relative newcomer to Stamford, will forever change your association with Greek food, and have you going back for more.

Walk into EOS and you are transported from its location on a non-descript block of Summer Street to a breezy Aegean island. The bright white wave-textured walls and clean, minimalist décor is inviting and sophisticated. The staff is warm and welcoming, and reflects the warmth of this family owned business. You are at once reassured that there will be no syrup or ketchup needed for this meal!

The food at EOS perfectly parallels the attractive, non-fussy atmosphere, as each dish I’ve sampled is prepared cleanly, deliciously, and without pretense. They use the freshest ingredients, serve on lovely white plates, and deliver everything at a leisurely, enjoyable pace.

On several occasions when I have eaten at EOS, I’ve shared three or four appetizers and a salad with my dining companions rather than order from the entrée section, mostly because I could never decide on just one of the numerous options. The choices run the gamut from garlicky dips to grilled meats and seafood to bright salads to creamy casseroles. And though I’d have been a happy diner if given any selection of the small plates, under duress I would say my favorites are the sublime grape leaves (no heavy, starchy rice in these), the giant butter beans (in an olive oil tomato sauce you want to lick off the plate), and the freshly grilled octopus. Even the plain and simple souvlaki sticks are cooked to perfection and served with just the right touch of herbs and lemon. Also, it must be noted, that the feta cheese that tops EOS’s salads is far superior to any that I’ve tasted before, containing a dynamite balance of salty and creamy.

The one time I made it past the appetizer selections, my husband and I both ordered the Char-grilled Fresh Fish, which is market based and prepared whole with olive oil, sea salt, lemon juice and oregano. For those who are hesitant to order a whole fish due to fear of filleting, the kitchen will happily handle this for you. Our striped bass and branzino were both amazingly fresh, perfectly cooked, and although not listed on the menu, featured some capers which added a nice tangy touch.

Reader Update: Although we felt the Seasoned Homemade Fries were perfectly salty and crisp on the outside and moist in the center, there were two side dishes that failed to wow one of our readers who recently visited EOS. These were two of the vegetable sides: The Artichokes & Peas were disappointing, a bit bland and overcooked, and they would pass on the Braised green beans in light tomato broth. They felt they simply did not hold up. 

I would be remiss if I failed to mention the EOS wine list which allows diners to sample a wide range of Greek wines that until now have not been available in the United States. The wines were selected to pair well with the full menu whether fish or fowl, and are reasonably priced. EOS owners, the Glekas family, tell us that a local wine store will soon be stocking some of the bottles featured on their wine list so you can enjoy your favorites at home as well.

Finally, having been “forced” to order dessert, I sampled the flaky baklava and the Greek style yogurt with honey and walnuts. Again, the kitchen succeeded in redefining my expectations of these staples by turning out winners that were neither overly sweet nor heavy.

Dinner at EOS is an excellent value. Their wonderful, high quality food is extremely reasonable in price, and there are menu options for every size budget, as well as every kind of palate. It is perfect for a light lunch, satisfying dinner or even a romantic evening. Like the ubiquitous diners in our area, I expect EOS to become a Stamford institution. I look forward to many ketchup-free meals there.

EOS 490 Summer Street, Stamford. 203.569.6250

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